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caged front 3 link / rear 4 link crazy questions!


The Real Mateo
Jan 28, 2015
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Sheridan, WY
so, a couple questions. i have been toying around with the idea of extending the wheelbase by moving the axle 6"-10" back and putting glass bedsides from a chevy truck on it and extending the cage to protect my 3rd row seating occupiers and building a fuel cell mount 0ff the back of the truck for my new 50 gal fuel cell (the thing is massive) with spots for mounting 2 spare tires either laying on top or upright on each side of the fuel cell.
so now questions: In order to make this work, will i have to use a drive shaft from a 80-88(87?) long bed truck with the same t case or would it be easier just to take my driveshaft in to a shop and have it extended to whatever I need it to be??
Has anyone ever put truck bedsides on a k5 before? how did it look?
does anyone have a front 3 link or rear 4 link set up on their caged k5? what spring rate did you use for the front? for the rear, where did you mount the coilovers and at what angle? What spring rate and length coilover did you use? Thanks!


Fortify Offroad
Premium Member
GMOTM Winner
Oct 24, 2013
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Yucca Valley Ca
Just a heads up, I have asked these questions before. Lemme see if I can lay it out.
Spring rates are relative. If you are mounting them to the axle generally you will see 200/300 all the way up to 350/450 depending on engine etc, the rear is usually lower if the shocks are mounted to the axle, that's not uncommon in crawlers or k5s
If you are looking for rigs that used a trailing arm the rates are going to be at least 30% higher so more like 300/400 up to 500/600 if at a 2:1 motion ratio (up closer to the trailing arm pivot) (or center of truck)

The blazer with an extended bedside will look like a longed with no space for the cab. so probably close to what a short bed looks like.

Like this
Once you move the wheelbase rearward you will be in uncharged territory, you kind of already are because you have no rear frame, The thing to try and remember is your truck is specific to itself, whenever you get numbers take them with a grain of salt. Trust me on this I am the same way with my research, I get ahead of myself and try to design the thing on the computer or paper before I touch any steel. Since building my truck I actually believe its simpler to get some steel and see what will fit,

You need somewhere to attach your links, go look at class 8 or heavy metal class desert trucks, they're required to have some of the stock frame, this will steer you somewhat to the direction I think you are going. There is many ways to skin a cat so its going to be based on your available tools in regards to how you fabricate this.

How are you going to attach the links to the axle? Do you have access to a tig and the proper filler rod and preheating and post heating methods? if not plan on going 9 inch or making or buying some sort of backbone to mount the links to. Make sure its stout because side loads can rip that off really easy.. why do you think Wade, myself and Nate went 9 inch? because you can weld to them easy. and parts are easy to come by.

I'm probably missing something. PM me if you have any questions.
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