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Caliper won’t bleed

fluid will flow out unless plugged off line / hose or massive junk in the system .

have you checked for flow right out of the master cyl ? then if yes keep checking all the way 1 junction at a time until no flow .

was this a new master or one that went dry ? did you bench bled it with the hoses looped in to it ? the newer masters just give caps and this method sucks for bench bled and getting all the air out .

its rare but masters can go bad after a line is open and let go dry i seen it before .

also prop valve can go bad and stay shut .
 
sweetk30 said:
fluid will flow out unless plugged off line / hose or massive junk in the system .

have you checked for flow right out of the master cyl ? then if yes keep checking all the way 1 junction at a time until no flow .

was this a new master or one that went dry ? did you bench bled it with the hoses looped in to it ? the newer masters just give caps and this method sucks for bench bled and getting all the air out .

its rare but masters can go bad after a line is open and let go dry i seen it before .

also prop valve can go bad and stay shut .
Click to expand...

I started with the stock MC but it has since been replaced. I took the stock one apart and it had no issues so I may swap back. I bench bled the new one.
 
Rule out the MC by making a pressure bleeder like this:

http://www.arkansaspontiacs.org/techstories/bleeder story.htm

I made one and it works like a charm. Only thing is I don’t fill the pressure tank with fluid which can make a mess, just air pressure (10psi in the pressure bleeder is what I use) and keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it stays at an appropriate level.
Other than that, did you replace the bleeder screws as suggested earlier?
 
rampage said:
Rule out the MC by making a pressure bleeder like this:

http://www.arkansaspontiacs.org/techstories/bleeder story.htm

I made one and it works like a charm. Only thing is I don’t fill the pressure tank with fluid which can make a mess, just air pressure (10psi in the pressure bleeder is what I use) and keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it stays at an appropriate level.
Other than that, did you replace the bleeder screws as suggested earlier?
Click to expand...

I did not, but I will now. I had checked them before and they were fine from what I remember.
 
@chris85 i saw that you’ll be in Biloxi soon. If your not in a hurry I have an air operated vacuum bleeder your welcome to use. I can meet you for a quick drop off so as not to get in to you trip time.
 
nvrenuf said:
@chris85 i saw that you’ll be in Biloxi soon. If your not in a hurry I have an air operated vacuum bleeder your welcome to use. I can meet you for a quick drop off so as not to get in to you trip time.
Click to expand...

Thanks man! May try to set that up. I’d hate for you to make that drive though.
 
This safety valve is pissing me off.

It’s tripped again. So do not put the O-ring on when using the bleeder tool otherwise I guess it’s not long enough to fit in the hole.

Checked the bleeders again, they’re clear. Found the original MC, gonna swap that back in bc I don’t feel like that is the problem.

Gonna mess with all that another day, my garage is a mess.
 
do us a favor post pics of the whole system . master and lines out / prop valve / rear hose and line combo / all calipers / any other major stuff . we might be able to spot something your missing and just not seeing .
 
To recap - are you doing this by yourself with a bleeder or with someone else pumping the pedal? Have you tried gravity bleeding while you’re doing other stuff?
 
nvrenuf said:
To recap - are you doing this by yourself with a bleeder or with someone else pumping the pedal? Have you tried gravity bleeding while you’re doing other stuff?
Click to expand...

No I’ve had an extra person on the pedal. I have tried just gravity bleeding and it tripped the switch too.

New master with original in hand

5F6221ED-CAF3-454A-8118-355ECFEF2FDD.jpeg

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0320AAEB-8FB6-463F-91D5-BA1019385CCD.jpeg

Couldn’t get a good view of the valve closed off

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48201A52-D91C-4FC8-9A89-1A3916DB1D32.jpeg

5895ADA9-C779-40BC-AFB6-D69FCE2F5AE7.jpeg

5F649866-5BCC-47C6-9465-B07600ADEDA8.jpeg
 
I had a similar problem when I did mine and I found it was caused by a low spot in the lines holding air. I dropped the front end down on the axle and then jacked up the rear and it ended up gravity bleeding while I was standing there. No pumping the MC needed. You do need to bench-bleed the MC or make really sure it’s bled before trying to bleed any of the other stuff downstream.
 
bp71k5 said:
I had a similar problem when I did mine and I found it was caused by a low spot in the lines holding air. I dropped the front end down on the axle and then jacked up the rear and it ended up gravity bleeding while I was standing there. No pumping the MC needed. You do need to bench-bleed the MC or make really sure it’s bled before trying to bleed any of the other stuff downstream.
Click to expand...


I ordered a MC bleed kit so when I swap MCs back I’ll be sure to bleed it really well
 
if you have a extra set of line nuts at the master just make a pair of hard loop lines back in to the master below the fluid level . i have a set in my shop tool box and just used them the other day for a k30 master . took a solid 10 min slow and steady pumping the fluid around and even some half strokes mixed in now and then to mix it up and make sure the air was out .
 
if you are using a MC form original config front disc rear drum, you need to remove the check valve for the rear drum wheel cylinder. or get a corvette mc that is disc disc. the safety valve will sift any time the pressures are unequal front to rear. If there is a large air bubble trapped in the rear system that might be enough to trip the valve.
 
Wes Harden said:
if you are using a MC form original config front disc rear drum, you need to remove the check valve for the rear drum wheel cylinder. or get a corvette mc that is disc disc. the safety valve will sift any time the pressures are unequal front to rear. If there is a large air bubble trapped in the rear system that might be enough to trip the valve.
Click to expand...

This is a 50/50 (disc/disc) valve.


Supposed to be anyway.
 
Wes Harden said:
if you are using a MC form original config front disc rear drum, you need to remove the check valve for the rear drum wheel cylinder. or get a corvette mc that is disc disc. the safety valve will sift any time the pressures are unequal front to rear. If there is a large air bubble trapped in the rear system that might be enough to trip the valve.
Click to expand...

I’ve read this many times but my own first hand experience found it unnecessary.

I put rear disc on my old 80 K10. The only fluid system mod was to swap on a m/c from a square body K20 (vacuum assist with larger reservoir), the proportioning valve was never touched. I never had any bleeding or braking issues.
 
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