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cam help

metalneverdies

metalneverdies

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Wanting to put a cam in my stock 87 k5. It has a TBI 350. Can any one suggest what one to put in? Or what lift and duration to look for?

I was thinking of going with the summit brand flat tappet because they are affordable. I'm not looking for anything to crazy. Just a little extra power.
 
id put a computer friendly roller cam in there...no since putting a flat tappet cam in anything these days, the oil straight sucks for the older flat tappet cams...no zinc unless you add it or find VR1 racing oil.
 
onetonbb74 said:
id put a computer friendly roller cam in there...no since putting a flat tappet cam in anything these days, the oil straight sucks for the older flat tappet cams...no zinc unless you add it or find VR1 racing oil.
Click to expand...

If I do a roller what all would I need to change? I'm assuming: cam, roller lifters, roller rockers, push rods, valve springs. Anything else?
 
87 block should be all set to add the roller cam parts. but not all had the bosses for bolts in them some say.

and some guys havegood luck with stock true lt1 5.7 l motor cams guys pull out all the time in there camero's and or firebirds.

but almost any cam change will require chip reprogram.

there is a injection section here with lots of tbi info.
 
I'm kind of iffy on if I should even bother with a cam. As the truck sits now, at 140,000 on the motor and 31's with 3.73's, it can't even break the tires loose in the rain. I truly think it could maybe run a 20 sec 1/4 mile on a good day.

Apparently back in the day when it was new; my dad said it would roast the tires leaving a light any time he punched it. Is he full of it, or does that sound right?

Do you guys think the motor is just wore out and tired? Should I even bother messing with it?
 
metalneverdies said:
I'm kind of iffy on if I should even bother with a cam. As the truck sits now, at 140,000 on the motor and 31's with 3.73's, it can't even break the tires loose in the rain. I truly think it could maybe run a 20 sec 1/4 mile on a good day.

Apparently back in the day when it was new; my dad said it would roast the tires leaving a light any time he punched it. Is he full of it, or does that sound right?

Do you guys think the motor is just wore out and tired? Should I even bother messing with it?
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The motor might be a bit tired, but mostly the gas quality has gone, not the same power content, and the oil doesn't have enough lubricity in it either, damn environazies.:doah:
 
have you changed the fuel filter any time in the recent past ?

down on pass frame rail next to tranny.

these get skipped so much its not funny.

i had one ran great but couldnt smoke tires (2wd truck) changed the filter and would clean the tires off that old beater. :whistle:
 
I've personally never really tried to "smoke the tires" on a 7000 pound truck, really didnt' see the point, maybe I'm getting old,, I dunno,,,
I did have the engine in my '89 rebuilt about 2 years ago, completely, cleaned up the crank, new pistons, bored over alittle, completely rebuilt heads including new valve springs and they did the roller cam mods to it.

Don't need roller rockers, but there is some sort of kit that installs on the block for the different lifters, stock grind cam and I immediately noticed a difference in the feel of the engine at idle mainly. A lot smoother, still has that Chevy shake at times, but I believe thats due to high mileage electronics, wiring & distributor.

I didn't opt for anything high performance, I was maily looking for reliability & long lasting. They did an awseome job, engine ran great, when it did (electrical gremlins now) and I'm glad I went with the rollercam setup.

If you're not looking for high performance and just want the motor rebuilt to freshen it up, I would highly suggest at least having the roller cam & lifter stuff installed.

Here in Phoenix, I paid like $1200 for the complete rebuild, including the added on roller setup, dropped off all the parts, they did the work and reassembled 90% of the motor. They leave the oil pan and intake off for customer inspection and they said usually most people recheck the torques on the mains and rod caps anyways.

Now I just need to buy a new distributor and wiring harness so I can get it back here to me.. :doah:
 
4xcrazy said:
I've personally never really tried to "smoke the tires" on a 7000 pound truck, really didnt' see the point, maybe I'm getting old,, I dunno,,,
I did have the engine in my '89 rebuilt about 2 years ago, completely, cleaned up the crank, new pistons, bored over alittle, completely rebuilt heads including new valve springs and they did the roller cam mods to it.

Don't need roller rockers, but there is some sort of kit that installs on the block for the different lifters, stock grind cam and I immediately noticed a difference in the feel of the engine at idle mainly. A lot smoother, still has that Chevy shake at times, but I believe thats due to high mileage electronics, wiring & distributor.

I didn't opt for anything high performance, I was maily looking for reliability & long lasting. They did an awseome job, engine ran great, when it did (electrical gremlins now) and I'm glad I went with the rollercam setup.

If you're not looking for high performance and just want the motor rebuilt to freshen it up, I would highly suggest at least having the roller cam & lifter stuff installed.

Here in Phoenix, I paid like $1200 for the complete rebuild, including the added on roller setup, dropped off all the parts, they did the work and reassembled 90% of the motor. They leave the oil pan and intake off for customer inspection and they said usually most people recheck the torques on the mains and rod caps anyways.

Now I just need to buy a new distributor and wiring harness so I can get it back here to me.. :doah:
Click to expand...

It's not so much that I'm trying the roast the tires and drift around my bloated over weight truck, as it is is using that for a very simple over the internet power level determining factor.

As for the fuel filter/pump, they were both changed about 1 or 2 years ago. It has about 3000 miles on the new parts. As far as a visual check the injectors seem to spray just fine. Cap and rotor and ign. Coil look fine.

It searches for an idle speed, especially when cold. If that means anything.

Also, checked the compression last night. Unless the gauge is way off, its just as I suspected. The motor has pretty low compression. Like between 88 min-100 max psi across the cylinders.
 
thats some low comp #'s there in the motor .

was it cold / hot when tested ?

did you have all the plugs out and throttle open with injectors unpluged when testing ?

anymore cost of reman local or your self / your labor dosnt pay off in theend over a new or reman in a box with warrenty .
 
sweetk30 said:
thats some low comp #'s there in the motor .

was it cold / hot when tested ?

did you have all the plugs out and throttle open with injectors unpluged when testing ?

anymore cost of reman local or your self / your labor dosnt pay off in theend over a new or reman in a box with warrenty .
Click to expand...

Spark plugs out, motor was warm. I didn't have the throttle open. I forgot about that. Let it crank 3 times then key off, check gauge. Repeat on each cylinder x2.

If I do a rebuild, I want a aftermarket cam. Possibly higher compression pistons. Would I still be able to buy a crate for the same price vs. Power of a set up like that?

If I do some type of crate I at a minimum want a new cam.
 
yep . search gm performance parts motors on here for tbi setups. there is 1 the guys were using that was more than stock .
 
sweetk30 said:
yep . search gm performance parts motors on here for tbi setups. there is 1 the guys were using that was more than stock .
Click to expand...

Seems like the average price for the 4 bolt 290 hp 350 engine is 1900-2200 dollars.

Talked to my local machine shop and they said, "engine rebuild is $1000, any race car sh*t is extra." He didn't specify weather that was all labor or if that included parts. He doesn't have the best social skills, so I figured enstead of prying with questions I will just say thanks and leave.
 
in my area there is 2 motor shops . i wouldnt give them 2 friggin pennys to rub in there hands. so many story's of crap motors.

there is 1 good guy tho that does JUST machine work and you put your own motor together. everyone recomends him around here if you can get him as he has a long list.

if going local ask lots of people and go from there.
 
I have asked a few of my FLAPS about the machine shop and no one has any experience with them. I watched him and his.... I'm assuming apprentice, rip apart a set of heads in 1 min.

FWIW he has pics of race cars he has built on his wall, and has done a few thread repair jobs for me.
 
i am no machinest but i can strip a head in under a min of valves and springs with retainers.

and i have built for cool rides i got pics of.

i can fix a thread or 2 and even pull broken bolts out real easy with out a easy out.

but i dont show it all off. that to me is sign of someone covering for somthing.

most pics i see on walls are over 5 years old for the newest ones. that tells me somthing there also.

but he could be the 1 out of 10 shops thats good also.
 
Yeah, thoughs are good points. All photos are old, super dirty, small and semi dark ish shop. And in all honesty I didn't notice any CNC machines or anything from the peak I had in the shop. Maybe an ancient lathe.

This shop looks pretty sweet. Any one heard of them before?

http://www.hensonracingengines.com/index.html

If cost is close or the same to buying a crate, I think I would rather have it built. Then for the same money I can have rollers, and the parts I want.
 
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