Dyeager,
I've been through the original owners manual fuse location pages (5-28 and 6-6+7) several times and there isn't a fuse or breaker labeled fuel. The ECM and probably some other fuse would work, but flipping a hidden switch (not a lighted one, Ha Ha) would be easier, wouldn't it?
I have never had real good luck with the pump in the tank. I don't remember how many, but I've had to replace a few. Some were pretty expensive.
I can't believe that with our technology, using cooling and noise doesn't justify the time, trouble and expense of it being in the tank. Can you give me a GOOD reason. I personally believe that they are making vehicles, on purpose, now so that the average "Joe" can't or has enough trouble that he will take it to a dealer or a shop. The good shops are almost as expensive as the dealer. Mechanics (Automotive Service Technicians) need to work, too, but on some things, I'd like to make the decision myself. I know that this is splitting hairs, but warm fuel doesn't generate as much power as cold/cooler fuel. I mainly just do not like the pump in the tank set-up.
I wasn't aware of the TBI having a built in pressure regulator and a spring controlling the pressure. I really appreciate that information.
This is mainly just me thinking of different ways to do things. If the pump in this thing is OK, I'm not going to can it.
Since I'm a dinosaur and don't know or understand how things are done now, I'm very appreciative of the information that y'all have given to me.I'm still working on the minor paint work, but all of this will be very helpful when I get past it.
By the way, can the tank be removed with the truck sitting on the ground, or better yet, how tall is the tank?
Thank y'all very much for everything, Paul
On the TBI trucks, the ECM fuse (are there two?) is probably the one for the fuel pump. Is there a single inline fuse holder in the engine bay on the TBI trucks? I do not recall, I know TPI uses a fuel pump fuse under hood.
I'm just not a fan of screwing with anything that adds another failure point to the truck. I find enough from the factory. That is a personal thing, plenty of people do so without issue however. I got a column guard for when I really want to make sure no one takes it (like when the top is off and I am parking it in public) but having a manual trans probably helps lol.
Not like I'm one to talk, but worrying about the pump warming fuel up is probably overthinking things. Liquid cools better than air, so an in-tank pump in fuel is going to stay cooler than an external pump that isn't actively being cooled. I don't think that is a real consideration however, either one is an electric motor that is generating heat that I assume even without being in fuel passes heat TO the fuel.
SO FAR I've had good luck with AC Delco fuel pumps. The new ones are coming from China, and while that isn't a good thing, it doesn't mean they are bad, IF Delco isn't allowing them to cut corners over there. The last one I had in the truck was obviously pre-ethanol, and ran for ~10 years before the hose split, but there was nothing wrong with the pump itself. There are probably some good aftermarket pumps, but if they don't cost as much as the Delco, or more, they probably aren't very good units.
Other than being designed for an in-tank pump, I really don't see much benefit to the in-tank setup over external. I don't think there is anything inherently wrong with the in-tank setup, and I know GM spent a ton of money making sure it worked good enough to sell to the public, but that was likely just quieter, safer and easier packaging on the vehicle vs. pure performance benefit. Obviously GM felt whatever tradeoff there was, was worth the expense. The in-tank setup to me seems a much more complex/costly solution than running a pump on the frame somewhere. There might be SOME better cooling with an in-tank pump, but a good external pump *probably* will last just as long. Of course, external pumps are no more of a guarantee to work good than an internal pump. If you have to change either style in less than 50,000 miles, I'd be contacting the manufacturer to find out why.
I've dropped my tank a couple times for various reasons (one the split in-tank pump hose) and I've never put it up in the air to get the tank off. It's got 33's but no lift, so it's not too much more clearance than stock. Skid plate is somewhat of a hassle, the worst part is trying to get the fuel fill hose off the tank or filler neck. Don't cut that thing unless you have a replacement around.