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Can I do a lift job myself?

77blazin

1 of a kine K5
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Is it difficult to do a 4 to 8 inch lift myself, I have the proper tools to lift my truck up, but is there a safety problem that I must watch out for, or should I get the job done at the proper store locations?
Mike
 
If you have the tools and the know how then yes you can do it. It isn't that hard to do with the right tools and knowledge. I lifted my truck in my garage. The only safety thing I worry about is trying to support the truck while you drop the axles down to get springs out. You should use the tall truck jackstands to support the frame of the truck.

Harley
 
and

Pull the brake calipers off the axles to give you more room to slide the new springs in. Go slow and lay everything out first especially the springs in the righht direction. Some have front and rear. The shackles and shocks should be snug bolted while in the air but tighten everything up while its sitting on the ground and after about 100 miles of driving checkout all the bolts again. Good luck.:thumb:
 
Hossbaby50 said:
If you have the tools and the know how then yes you can do it. It isn't that hard to do with the right tools and knowledge. I lifted my truck in my garage. The only safety thing I worry about is trying to support the truck while you drop the axles down to get springs out. You should use the tall truck jackstands to support the frame of the truck.

Harley
Jackstands are a good idea. Nothing like trying to crawl faster than a Bub can fall. I'm just going to tap it - Famous last words.:screwy:
 
Im 15 and really didnt think i could do my own aswell. I did a shackle flip and new springs in the rear along with an axle swap in my driveway. So if i can do it you can do it. I used 3ton jackstands and some cinderblocks on the framerails to hold it up and 2 jacks on the axles (so they move easier). I did the rear lift and axle swap in a weekend, it would have been only a day but i ran into problems like brakelines, seized bolts, and my driveshaft was too long lol.
 
Nix the cinder blocks, BAD IDEA....

Installing a lift is fairly easy, just time consuming. Make sure some of your tools include a big cut off wheel or a blue tipped wrench, as you will probably have to cut out the old bolts.

Allow plenty of time, and have a vehicle around for parts running. There will be some odds and ends you come across that will need to be replaced....(Longer brake lines)

Two floor jacks are helpful.

Are you already geared for the future bigger tires? Moost peoople run ooutta money for the gear swap after spending money on the lift and are not happy with the results....
 
SUBFAN said:
Nix the cinder blocks, BAD IDEA....


Installing a lift is fairly easy, just time consuming. Make sure some of your tools include a big cut off wheel or a blue tipped wrench, as you will probably have to cut out the old bolts.

Allow plenty of time, and have a vehicle around for parts running. There will be some odds and ends you come across that will need to be replaced....(Longer brake lines)

Two floor jacks are helpful.

Are you already geared for the future bigger tires? Moost peoople run ooutta money for the gear swap after spending money on the lift and are not happy with the results....
I cant disagree with a single word in what he said and would throw in there two tidbits of my own. Go to the store tomorrow and get some "penetrating oil" or the like and spray it on every bolt & nut that touches the rearend of your suspension. spay it on every morning and every night until you do the swap... it will make life about 1,000,000 times easier.

Second... never, reuse your old U-bolts. They are good to keep around for trail spares and the like but for a new install only use a new bolt... I guess this will be the third tidbit... use a 3/4" U-bolt. dont assume that a 1/2" will be strong enough. We put a LOT more stress on U-bolts than GM intended and while a stock bolt will stand up to it most of the time, I personally have to believe that beating the piss out of them on the trail then driving them on the street is not terribly smart or safe.

Other than that... go slow, keep a hammer and a torch ready (heating stuff up and beating it out works well) and above all else, keep the truck on stands and stable in the air...
 
my son , who was 10 at the time , and i did mine in about 4 hours. of
course all the bolts loosened up with ease. we also did one spring at a time in the front, and one side at a time in the rear. felt easier that way. we used a
couple floor jacks and jack stands. i would recommend " NOT" using cinder blocks, as they are known to crack and break.
 
CINDER BLOCKS, Man you must have a death wish, do you know how easy those things break????
 
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the info!!, is there anything else that I should be cautioned with except breaking cinder blocks??
Mike
 
yes ,
when you take the draglink off , make sure your wheels are straight before you remove. that way when you re-install , the your steering will be straight and have the same turning radius left to right.
also ,
when you are trying to remove your steering arm , spray it down and use you hammer to beat down on it and side to side. there are cone type washers under the three nuts you will take off, and beating up on it just makes it tighter and harder to remove.
 
I have heard the the cone washers are really easy to tke off, if you take a chisel, and tap them around in a circle, kinda like unthreading them, they come off real easy,

I did a shakle flip, 0 rates, 6 in lift and 1 ton swap, with 2 jackstands, hand tools and a 4in grinder and a borrowed welder, in my friends garage, so it absoulty can be done:xmas:
 
Careful with the cinder blocks! I've been doing the lift and axle swaps on my K5 on my driveway, with no previous experience. I was in the garage when I heard some noise under the blazer, and watch as the cinder block cracked and broke and dumped the left side of the blazer. Luckily, I had two jack stands on each side, and it didn't hit the ground. Glad I was'nt under it!

Having the right tools definately help out!
 
just a word to everyone... there is a huge difference between cinder block and cement block... i'd have no issues working under a truck blocked with cement block with a 2x6 on top, hell, we block 40 ton boats on em. but cinder block will be asking for serious trouble and more than likely a trip to the ER...
 
I did not see anyone mention it, but enlist some help. My lift was a pain, time consuming and my first. My "burb is also my first real 4X4 and the learning curve is steep.

The friends helping (several over a few days) made a huge difference and turned what could have been an aggrivation into a lot of fun.

:waytogo: Do it yourself and you also have the benefit of knowing what is under the truck - may be helpful to learn about it if you are going to wheel it.
 
i am in the process of puttin a lift on by myself, all i have left is the steering arm, you just gotta make sure you put the jacks on real-secure, dont wimp out on anything when it comes to that, ever.
 
I did the lift on the Blazer in my dirt driveway. Let me tell ya what that was NOT fun. Again what everyone said about preparation is key. Good luck to ya and make sure you do have fun. If it starts to get to be a pain the behind, go and set down inside or go have a beer or whatnot. Gettin all mad just makes the whole thing worse.
 
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