Can I install a c/v joint on the rear driveshaft?

[UP K5er]

Can I install a c/v joint from a front driveshaft on the rear driveshaft to make it longer and get rid of vibes? This is ASSUMING that the length will be correct after the swap. Has anyone done this?

I'm cheap and don't want to invest in a "high angle" c/v driveshaft at this point. I plan to convert to a 241 fixed yolk in the future. 87 K5 shackle flip + 2" springs. NP208 with slip yolk and stock driveshaft.

 

[cuervo]

I don't think vibration is caused by the length of the driveshaft, but more from the angle of the driveshaft. If you have not spaced down you transfer case yet you could do that to reduce the angle and possible stop the vibration issue. This should get you by until you do the 241 fix.

 

[UP K5er]

my bad... I worded that wrong. I need the c/v joint to correct the angle and reduce vibrations. The driveshaft does need to be longer now that I have the new lift on. I figured that if I could just put on a c/v joint, I'd be killing 2 birds with 1 stone...I'd get a longer driveshaft with the benefit of a c/v joint.

BTW. I am a vibration engineer at a paper mill.

 

[nvrenuf]

Rear CV's are common. The hardest part will be the transfer case flange you'll need to bolt it to. Try www.highangledriveline.com

 

[obijuan]

you can get the CV from a 70s caddilac with a t400 trans. cvs at both ends and the trans end is for the rear and you can use the axle end for a new front shaft.

 

[DPI]

You can use the caddy cv with the slip yoke, but it didn't get rid of my vibration, when I went that route. I am running 9" of lift in the back. I ended up doing the 241 SYE and the HAD 1350 CV and solved all the vibration issues. I am now running the 241 as a doubler and an Atlas. I am still running the same rear 1350 CV that I used with the 241 and still no vibes, even with the shorter rear shaft...

 

[DPI]

Getting rid of the slip yoke would be a big step too. Even if you were still running a ujoint.

 

[UP K5er]

Thanks. Not exactly what i wanted to hear.

So can I pull a c/v joint from my front driveshaft and install it between my rear slip yolk and stock driveshaft?

 

[loafer]

Thanks. Not exactly what i wanted to hear.

So can I pull a c/v joint from my front driveshaft and install it between my rear slip yolk and stock driveshaft?

Your front CV and rear slip yoke are differenct size U-joints. I think the CV is a 1310 and the rear is a 3R. You might be able to make it work with two conversion joints...but I don't know.

_____

 

[UP K5er]

I guess I'll have to just pull the driveshaft and try it. I hate to start something and then run to the parts store for parts...get the wrong parts and run back to the store and find out it still won't work. I need to fininsh the rest of the 6" tuff country springs this weekend too. Never enough time to fininsh my projects. Thanks for the info.

 

[1979jimmy350]

you can't just take the CV from the front and put in on the rear slip yoke. If you have a yoke style front CV it bolts to the Tcase with bolts through the yoke, to put it in a slip yolk you would have to remove that part which would remove the centering ball making the CV joint not usable

 

[UP K5er]

I know the 'bolt' flange on the front c/v joint would have to be removed and then i'd install the slip yolk instead.

I guess I just don't understand why I can't replace one u-joint on the c/v unit with another u-joint that just happens to have a slip yolk on it. I am confused now. I'll go look at the c/v after work. I'm not clear on what the centering ball is? I'm going from a poor memory...thought a c/v just has 2 standard u-joints. I'm sure I will be corrected...

 

[UP K5er]

This solution just seems too easy..

1. I lifted the truck 6"
2. I need a longer driveshaft
3. I want one with a C/V joint

Solution: just put a C/V joint (from the front) onto the stock rear driveshaft to make it longer and have a c/v joint. of course I need to remove the bolt flange from the front. It can't be that easy can it?

 

[loafer]

you can't just take the CV from the front and put in on the rear slip yoke. If you have a yoke style front CV it bolts to the Tcase with bolts through the yoke, to put it in a slip yolk you would have to remove that part which would remove the centering ball making the CV joint not usable

You are right. He would need a slip yoke flange at the t-case to bolt the front CV joint flange to. I've never seen one.

 

[UP K5er]

Well that sucks...I was hoping to save 400 bucks. guess I'll have to save up for a new driveshaft. I had to try... Thanks for your help.

 

[kwissman]

you may be able to get a slip yoke end that will work with the CV. It would probably be a special order. I have seen CVs that were slip yoke on one end. Check the Neapco catalog.