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Can I see some fender trimming?

Bringing this back from the dead.... I'm planning on running 42s and 8" springs (already have from a previous build), zero rates, 1 inch body, and a shackle flip(with rear lift springs). I'm hoping to get away with what the above user did. I dont want to hack my fenders but I surely dont mind trimming them either. Anyone have any comments?

F6DA8A5E-1C83-4463-B249-197835795D72_zpsgzhbflxs.jpg
 
For the OP, I would recommend just taking the inner lip off at the lower bottom edge and leaving the whole outside alone. You can still run factory trim and it looks stock. Sometimes that all you need for 35's and you cut more later if that wasn't enough.

For 42's you should probably plan to cut out the whole wheel opening. Sadly, the 70's front fenders have even smaller openings than the 80's fenders.
 
Blue85 said:
For the OP, I would recommend just taking the inner lip off at the lower bottom edge and leaving the whole outside alone. You can still run factory trim and it looks stock. Sometimes that all you need for 35's and you cut more later if that wasn't enough.

For 42's you should probably plan to cut out the whole wheel opening. Sadly, the 70's front fenders have even smaller openings than the 80's fenders.
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Seems like the width of the fender is the issue rather than the height. I was thinking about taking the entire "lip" off all the way to the inner but try to leave inner fender well alone. Think that'll be enough?
 
Trimming the lip off all the way around is what I did on my K5 (with a little extra at the lower front and back).

The rim width and offset will play a huge a factor in how much lift is needed.
 
brokenparts said:
Seems like the width of the fender is the issue rather than the height. I was thinking about taking the entire "lip" off all the way to the inner but try to leave inner fender well alone. Think that'll be enough?
Click to expand...

Yes, the front and back of the wheel opening are the biggest problems. The main reason to take the whole lip off is to make the opening the same all the way around - a lip just on the top looks weird. The coolest, most ambitious jobs relocate or re-roll a lip into the new wider opening.

With 42's, you should consider moving the front axle forward, as the rear of the wheel opening is usually the biggest problem. After you cut 2-3 inches, the tire is hitting the inner fender.

Phil513 said:
I learn something new every day.
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It's 1" in front and 1" in back.
 
brokenparts said:
Bringing this back from the dead.... I'm planning on running 42s and 8" springs (already have from a previous build), zero rates, 1 inch body, and a shackle flip(with rear lift springs). I'm hoping to get away with what the above user did. I dont want to hack my fenders but I surely dont mind trimming them either. Anyone have any comments?

F6DA8A5E-1C83-4463-B249-197835795D72_zpsgzhbflxs.jpg
Click to expand...



You are killing me :doah:
 
Oh I'm fully aware of "it's just metal"

My K5 started out as a straight rust free truck from AZ. Now it doesn't have a straight panel on it.

But if it was as clean as yours, I would spare it as long as I could.
 
GWeakland620 said:
Oh I'm fully aware of "it's just metal"

My K5 started out as a straight rust free truck from AZ. Now it doesn't have a straight panel on it.

But if it was as clean as yours, I would spare it as long as I could.
Click to expand...

I've gone back and forth a million times... playing with the idea of 37s or 39.5s from time to time. The problem is that I have the 42s, lift, doubler, motor, tons, etc just sitting there waiting to be bolted up. It so tempting!
 
brokenparts said:
I've gone back and forth a million times... playing with the idea of 37s or 39.5s from time to time. The problem is that I have the 42s, lift, doubler, motor, tons, etc just sitting there waiting to be bolted up. It so tempting!
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't be able to fight it for 2 min!!!:haha:

Everyone has their own opinion on how to treat these things, you gotta do what makes you happy.

Later down the road I want to build a nice DD. To keep clean and drivable and maybe make up for what I have done to this one:doah:
 
The problem with cutting all the way around the opening is you have to remember to leave the places for the inner fender well clips. Iirc my fender cut left about 4 spots across the top of the arc and then the bolts that go to the firewall. To reinstall my fender wells I'll have to cut almost all of the lower ends off.
 
When I did mine I only took out about an inch and a half. Now that my axle is moved forward 2 inches, no more rubbing.







 
Heres a couple of pics of mine.

In this pic, if you look close you can see the cut line on the rear opening. The outer lip is cut free but the inner well is still holding it in place. (Disregard the rear axle position - 5" back - I've since changed it)



This pic shows a mostly uncut fender, only the fang was trimmed. The axle is moved 2" forward and the tires are 42" TSL's.



This is the final look, rear axle 3" back and front axle 2" forward with 8" of total lift.

 
brokenparts said:
Lol... you guys are killing me. It's just metal. :haha:
Click to expand...

GWeakland620 said:
Oh I'm fully aware of "it's just metal"

My K5 started out as a straight rust free truck from AZ. Now it doesn't have a straight panel on it.

But if it was as clean as yours, I would spare it as long as I could.
Click to expand...





I found this guy memorial weekend at the dunes, and had to tell him how awesome his fender job was. He goes holy crap, you are actually the first person to ever notice that.... :whistle:


Trim your fenders like this and ill approve all day :thumb:











 
What did that put your wheelbase at?

I have an a-bomb coming plus I have some ez inch blocks... That should help move the axles around a bit.
 
Haha, I want it to look good too, not a hack job. Been following your build and nverenuf build... Both have been awesome resources for my plans with this truck. Thanks for posting.
 
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