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Can local driveline shops build driveshafts the same quality as High Angle?

P

PetaKane

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Location
Oklahoma City OK
There's a place here in OKC called Drivetrain Specialists. I want one of those 1350 CV joint rear shafts and was wondering if any of you had gone to someone besides High Angle Driveline. I'd use them in a heartbeat it's just that I need one by Monday or Tuesday.
 
<font color="green"> I get my shafts at a local shop, they're just as high of quality, they just don't have alot of the high-zoot stuff like Jess has. </font color>
 
I got mine done by Sacramento Drive Line Service!
5303frdriveshaft.jpg

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Complete build new parts &amp; CV on the rear both lengthened for my lift! $525.00 out the door.
Bill
 
I think, and Jesse will probably step in to verify, that the 1350 CV requires a custom flange that Jesse either makes or has made for his kits.
a normal 1350 yoke shaft is a bolt in deal that any driveline shop can whip up.
 
Jesse can ship next day. He is also a K5 brother (his 64 is on a 77 Blazer chassis). Give him a call and see what he can do for you. 530-877-2875. His service is second to none. And you can get the member discount too /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif.
 
Anyone *can* build those shafts like Jess. However, many of the shaft shops cut corners and do not have the quality product or support that Jess has. For instance, AZ Drive Lines is one of the "big shops" that has a bad rep around here. I would definitely suggest checking with Jess before you do anything. If the price is even in the same range, I would go with Jess over an unknown local shop. Now, if you know lots of wheelers local who use shafts from a local shop and rave on them, sure, get it local if it saves a buck. Problem is, most "local" shaft shops are mostly about replacing stock stuff with very little or no business or experience with custom HD, long spline, etc. 4x4 stuff...
 
thanks for the post. I almost went with AZ driveline, it was about 50 bucks cheaper than Jesse, even with the discount. Instead, I checked with Master Fabricators, a local shop, and the guy talked me out of going C/V. told me it was so expensive to fix [censored] when i broke sh$t. said angle my pinion at the tcase, and stick with what i got (stock driveshaft), until i broke it. said it was cheaper to replace a u joint than it would be to replace all the innards of an h-yoke in a c/v, but if i want, he can build me a c/v no problem, said all his jeep guys say that c/v sucks. don't know anything about jeeps, but why would they say it sucks? but he would build me a cadillac c/v shaft and i have heard they they aren't great, what's up with that?..so i am getting my spring perches rewelded monday to aim at my tcase, and i'm gonna wheel with it for a while, and if it breaks quick, i'm gonna go with Jesse /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Hmm, that comment on CVs does not make sense. Most Jeep guys have to run CVs due to the short wheel base resulting in very high angles and short shafts. Honestly, call Jess and talk to him. I guarantee he will shoot straight with you, he is not out to push something down your throat or pressure you into a sale. Last time I called, we talked for at least 20 minutes about shafts, joints, tranny/case options, my truck, his truck, etc. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Anyway, he will tell you exactly what you need to look at and consider when deciding on a new shaft as well as what the consequences of those decisions might be.
 
One thing I have to diagree with here:
If you don't use a C/V joint, you shouldn't point your pinion towards the Tcase, you should have it within 2 degrees of the Tcase output angle meaning almost parallel, with a C/V you should point the pinion towards the Tcase output.
You will definitely break the shaft and end up talking to Jess... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Like imiceman44 said, DO NOT point your pinion at the t-case. You will have a vibration from hell and will most likely be breaking all kinds of u-joints. You only point the pinion at the t-case when running a C/V shaft. Give Jesse a call, I have one of his C/V shafts in my blazer and love it.
 
<font color="green"> That is why you need a CV shaft... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif </font color>
 
call me stupid, but could you explain to me why i would break ujoints if there is no angle at all on the rear ujoint, driveshaft in line with the pinion, and the top ujoint isn't binding and has plenty of room to play?
 
Top and bottom u-joint angles must be the same (actually complimentary) in order to stop vibration. If you use a CV the CV ujoints are complimentary and cancel each other out, that is why the other end must me inline with the shaft (zero angle). Do a search on the web using "driveline angles" and you will get a ton of usefull info and diagrams and explanation of how and why. Also go to www.howstuffworks.com and check out their u-joint demo.
 
C/V means "constant velocity", meaning that the input and output of the joint are always at the same speed. Now in a single U-joint, the angle causes the ouput to orbit in kind of an elipse. This requires the driveshaft to speed up and slow down twice for every revolution. This will create a vibration proportional to the angle in the joint. However, when the angle at the other end of the driveshaft is the same, the two acceleration forces cancel each other out and everything is OK.
 
Very well put.
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