3 holes or 5 holes....
Nevermind, it is so you can mount them on tube at an angle.... Ill just have to mount them with a square
CK5
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Can you guys with link knowledge check this for me.
- Thread starter Deuling
- Start date
3 holes or 5 holes....
Nevermind, it is so you can mount them on tube at an angle.... Ill just have to mount them with a square
Looked at the prices on that link for Ruffstuf. Holy crap that stuff is getting expensive. I could not afford to build my truck at today's prices.
Ruffstuff does some 20% off sales throughout the year. If you shop around it can be done cheaper.
But yah I couldn't afford it either. Someday.
Don't forget the CK510 promo code gets you 10% off all year round
LT.
1/2 ton status
Having done a few link styled suspensions now I can tell you that.the perfect four link is very difficult to achieve. Bassically, you can only get close to what will fit and work on your rig. In this case close is going to have to be good enough. For your center of gravity I have always used the top of the transmission bell housing where it meets the engine. However, different axles, wheels, tires, body work will change the actual point.
Rules in this case are meant to be bent. Axle link separation should be around 25% of tire size, upper and lower links should be around 75% of each other for length, and frame separation is going to be subjective due to link length, and angle. Everything is up to y'all as builders. I would not get hung up on your perfect set up because it may not fit the application.
There was two good article written by Fred Williams on four link suspensions. I found it by doing a google search. It is worth a quick read.
LT.
Rules in this case are meant to be bent. Axle link separation should be around 25% of tire size, upper and lower links should be around 75% of each other for length, and frame separation is going to be subjective due to link length, and angle. Everything is up to y'all as builders. I would not get hung up on your perfect set up because it may not fit the application.
There was two good article written by Fred Williams on four link suspensions. I found it by doing a google search. It is worth a quick read.
LT.
So this is how it is...
Ended up with a lot of roll axis angle. at 16 or 17 I cant remember at the moment as I changed it some on craigs computer.
All we can do is try it at this point. The suspension and pinion angles work out freeking perfect. The length from tcase to yoke don't even change lifting it 14.5" up.....
Im hoping some fancy sway bars can trick the roll axis numbers and make it more manageable..
Stock driveshaft even fits perfect
Ended up with a lot of roll axis angle. at 16 or 17 I cant remember at the moment as I changed it some on craigs computer.
All we can do is try it at this point. The suspension and pinion angles work out freeking perfect. The length from tcase to yoke don't even change lifting it 14.5" up.....
Im hoping some fancy sway bars can trick the roll axis numbers and make it more manageable..
Stock driveshaft even fits perfect
Looks good. Yours will be easier now that you've done one.
What wall is the center tube on the wishbone?
What wall is the center tube on the wishbone?
The one with the heim? 2" .250 wall. As is the cross bar between the upper link brackets. The rest is 1.75 .120 wall but it will get plated so im not worried.
Wishbone upper bolts are 1" and lower frame mounts are 1-1/4" bolts. Delron bushings on all uppers, with 2" .250 wall sleeves.
Overkill is the key factor here.
The thread is here if you guys haven't seen it. I have designed and built every aspect of the new suspension in trade for the tires and my new rear axle for the blazer.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302405
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302405
Good. I tore that bung out of mine with 1.75" x .120 wall DOM. New I should have gusseted it. Only fail I've had. But checking the truck after every outing saved brakage in the field.
Yah one thing that worries me is not using those fancy pinch bungs...
But Norcalchris on here had a good idea, to just cut a slot in the bung with my portaband and weld two tabs for a bolt to run through...
Will prolly just run it as is for now though...
I have the fancy pinch bung. Too bad it didn't make the tubing thicker. I did reuse the bung though.
I wanted it to be beef. So that's what I did. Still enough of his .250 wall to use for front links...
Not sure what to do yet there though... You had a wishbone front for a bit... I think I could make that fit pretty well.... But I don't know how you did mechanical steer with it....
Id like to do mechanical steer... But it appears the rules for a street rig in MI don't say anything about steering... So full hyrdro may just be easier and work better.. It would be all high end PSC good stuff....
You've started the steering link argument again. Noooooooooo. Full hyro is the only way to make it. I tried. That's why I went to 3 link/panhard. I also did not have room for the wishbone above. Went below with it. Straight links on top. All kinds of room then. Worked great with full hydro.
I was nervous driving it on the freeway at 75MPH with no mechanical link. I drove a back hoe down the road, maybe doing 20MPH, steering line blew. Almost bought me cop car. Luckily hit the bucket down lever and the bucket hit the ground. My ribs hurt from hitting the steering wheel.
Full hydro on the street? I would avoid it.
I was nervous driving it on the freeway at 75MPH with no mechanical link. I drove a back hoe down the road, maybe doing 20MPH, steering line blew. Almost bought me cop car. Luckily hit the bucket down lever and the bucket hit the ground. My ribs hurt from hitting the steering wheel.
Full hydro on the street? I would avoid it.
I know 
Yah looking at it the wishbone on the bottom would work sweet. Tons of space.
He just doesn't like the idea of a panhard... I'm still trying to talk him into it though. If so I'd like to do something like bens, but longer links.
Yah looking at it the wishbone on the bottom would work sweet. Tons of space.
He just doesn't like the idea of a panhard... I'm still trying to talk him into it though. If so I'd like to do something like bens, but longer links.
I know
Yah looking at it the wishbone on the bottom would work sweet. Tons of space.
He just doesn't like the idea of a panhard... I'm still trying to talk him into it though. If so I'd like to do something like bens, but longer links.
Why doesn't he like the idea of a panhard bar?
My mind is blown..
Same here at first I thought it was going to be in the way and be a pain. I was intimidated but I wouldn't change it out at all now i see it.
Curious to see a wishbone on the front it has to be goofy.
Curious to see a wishbone on the front it has to be goofy.
Why doesn't he like the idea of a panhard bar?
My mind is blown..
I think he feels it's gonna limit performance (which I'm sure it does compared to a 4 link)
And Ben I don't see why it would be wierd. Wishbone lower with the single joint at a crossmember at the frame instead of at the axle.
Would be super easy to fit and no clearance issues with the engine etc....
But I'm not sure. I think a triangulated is easier to build after doing the wishbone...
Maybe a little but properly designed and you will be fine. I'd rather have good road manors and return to center, but that's just me.
He's got an 07 duramax and a trailer though too....
But I am gonna try to talk him into at least trying the parrallel 4 with panhard, and if it doesn't work how he wants to we can prolly use a lot of the material and mounts to change it later on.
