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Can't get tire off of truck...lol

tRustyK5 said:
No way man...I'm sticking with the swanky 1/2 ton diffs this time. Just need to make a few upgrades, specifically everything inside the 10 bolts. :haha:

Rene
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I hear ya.



Sacreligious, but I hear ya.:wink1:
 
I'm late on the stuck wheel, but this is what I do. Just swing another wheel/tire combo right into it like a battering ram. Never failed yet. At work I use a really big deadblow, like 25lb or something. It works well too.

So with the 35's and no lift, can you even turn it?
 
Pressing it off using the threaded center cap holes worked really good...much better than beating the ever loving sh!t out of the rim with the 13 lb sledge. I didn't want to get too crazy, I only just finished that bedside repair...all I need at this point is to put a huge dent in it by accident.

Driving it as it sits, I can turn to full lock turning left without any rub. Right turn I can get 70% of the way to full lock before I get a little light rubbing. Got home and the rub is so slight there isn't even a mark on the lower fenders...I grabbed my tape and on the drivers side I have 2 1/4" between the back of the tire and the fender. Passenger side I have 1.5". Possibly center bolt issues, we'll see but it explains why it only rubs one way.

I'm sure if I twist it up at all it'll be bad though. I figure 3" fronts, 4" flip, and move the front diff forward 1" or so with some very discreet trimming and it should be OK. we'll see.

Rene
 
I now predict you are on the precipice of the slippery slope Rene. :D:D

It begins now! LOL
 
Check for rubbing at the pitman arm/draglink. That's where mine was rubbing on right turns. This was with 33s on stock aluminum wheels.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Pressing it off using the threaded center cap holes worked really good...much better than beating the ever loving sh!t out of the rim with the 13 lb sledge. I didn't want to get too crazy, I only just finished that bedside repair...all I need at this point is to put a huge dent in it by accident.

Driving it as it sits, I can turn to full lock turning left without any rub. Right turn I can get 70% of the way to full lock before I get a little light rubbing. Got home and the rub is so slight there isn't even a mark on the lower fenders...I grabbed my tape and on the drivers side I have 2 1/4" between the back of the tire and the fender. Passenger side I have 1.5". Possibly center bolt issues, we'll see but it explains why it only rubs one way.

I'm sure if I twist it up at all it'll be bad though. I figure 3" fronts, 4" flip, and move the front diff forward 1" or so with some very discreet trimming and it should be OK. we'll see.

Rene
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Wait, you havn't trimmed the fenders yet? Wow, I mounted 35s with no lift on my 89 back in the day and the tires almost hit the fenders with the wheels pointed straight. Then again they were brand new 35s
 
muddermilitia said:
Wait, you havn't trimmed the fenders yet? Wow, I mounted 35s with no lift on my 89 back in the day and the tires almost hit the fenders with the wheels pointed straight. Then again they were brand new 35s
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Width is going to be the deal breaker. Width, and backspacing.
 
496truck said:
Check for rubbing at the pitman arm/draglink. That's where mine was rubbing on right turns. This was with 33s on stock aluminum wheels.
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Yep, that's what killed Big Ugly's forward drag link boot with the 36" HMMWV tires it had originally. The stockish wheels pulled the tire sidewall right against the drag link when turning right. Ate it right up.
 
Right turn, full lock.

002-1.jpg


Oh yeah, now I can't turn the wheels back straight without getting creative. The pass front tire pushed it's way past the bottom corner of the fender...if I turn it back it'll munch the fender or damage the tire. lol

I'll have to hi-lift the front and straighten em out (for now)

Rene
 
Eh, nice. Lucky you. Makes me wonder about some wider and taller tires on mine.

Dammit Rene!
 
I do kick myself for not going with 285's when I got these 265's. Turns the 32's with no trouble, the 33's wouldn't have bothered it at all.

While back I saw a similar setup, 15x8's and 35" muds. I didn't have $40 let alone the $400 the guy wanted. I passed but oooh man was it tempting.
 
I really like the look of 33's or 35's on factory ralleys...it's one of the big reasons I'm staying 1/2 ton. The narrower 1/2 ton diff's also keep the tires tucked in the fenders more...so the truck should stay a little cleaner than my old one.

So let's recap...

1/2 tons on purpose
I like the way the ralley's look
I like that the truck will stay cleaner

This is like the "anti CK5 build" :haha:

Rene
 
max 02 said:
That reminds me why sometimes I just walkaway and think about it for a bit. What a retard!! LOL
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Half the reason I posted this was because I needed to walk away for a few minutes. Sure as shootin I went back to it and found a pretty easy solution. Doesn't always work that way, but more often than not it does. There is almost always a way...

Even so I ruined a rim for no reason other than impatience. :doah:

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
I really like the look of 33's or 35's on factory ralleys...it's one of the big reasons I'm staying 1/2 ton. The narrower 1/2 ton diff's also keep the tires tucked in the fenders more...so the truck should stay a little cleaner than my old one.

So let's recap...

1/2 tons on purpose
I like the way the ralley's look
I like that the truck will stay cleaner

This is like the "anti CK5 build" :haha:

Rene
Click to expand...

Lots of good things about keeping 1/2 ton stuff. Its lighter, cheaper, better rear ground clearance, stock wheels work, 15" tires are cheaper, and has held up well for me on both of my K5's.
 
I wouldn't even do 3"-4" lift. I would do a 2.5" Shackle flip and a zero rate up front. That or just a 1" body lift.
 
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