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carb issue?

greengiant0311

greengiant0311

1/2 ton status
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So... The truck has been hard to start even when warm and even dieing while it is running and then becoming nearly impossible to start. I have thought that the carb may need a rebuild but want to pinpoint the issue before the time and money are spent. Also I had checked the choke and it was very hot to the touch, maybe the choke is fried? Looked for a new choke but can't find it sold separately. New carbs are expensive!
 
Pick and pull or auto dismantlers is you best friend for stuff like that you can't find sold separately. Also I have a 81 blazer that has the same
Problem a good carb disassembly and cleaning and new carb kit did wonders for mine. Just befor you start on a carb rebuild plan on completing it the same day cus small part can get lost and forgotten about. Count you turns on you APT (adjustable part throttle) two lightly bottom out and wright it down if you have problems forgetting stuff like that as well as you idle air mixture screws. You should get a product called cem dip work wonders on cleaning your disassembled carb just let all parts soke in it for a day or so and helps the prosses out alot. Compressed air and a air nossle with a rubber it also save a lot of time cleaning out all little fuel passages. I also found that cutting tip cleaning files help out along the way.

Hopes this helps you out.
Any more q? Just ask
 
First of all. What carb is it? Stock qjet, edelbrock, holly? :dunno:
 
Sorry, guess I should have said it's an edlebrock 600. I have the rebuild kit for it but have never rebuilt a carb and don't want to screw it up.
 
They do sell a choke kit separate. I've seen it at parts stores. Not sure on part number but it was in the bolt on power section. A rebuild will more than likely help if the carb is old. You could have a stuck float that's not letting fuel flow. While you're in there I would put in the spring needle and seats for Offroad use. Helped mine a lot on bouncy washboard back roads.
 
I wrote all the edelbrock numbers down in a thread here. Had the float kit, choke kit, off road needle kit, and rebuild kit numbers for an edelbrock 1406. Same car as you. Its so stupid easy i couldnt beleive it. When i get to a computer ill try finding the numbers for ya.
 
Ok found some numbers. Rebuild kit #1477. Float kit #1469. Offroad needles #1465. I dont have the choke number but i ordered mine on amazon. Just search for edelbrock 1406 choke. Its the little round black thing. Also i bought a book on amazon for $10 that has lots of nice pics and instructions if ur still leary... HP Books, by Larry Shepard, Rebuild & Powertune, Carter/Edelbrock Carburetours. Great book. :thumb: My blazer used to die on the small inclines if i didnt keep some throttle on it. Now i can sit on a steep dune all day long and she just purs...those needles work :woot:
 
Deuling has a great suggestion.

Still I find most edelbrocks are bets fixed with a hammer.
 
80' 427 said:
Deuling has a great suggestion.

Still I find most edelbrocks are bets fixed with a hammer.
Click to expand...

Ten years on my edeljunk and no real complaints. Never had any problems Offroad off camber or on hills. Just chugs right on up or down.
 
Ok, so I ordered the parts and pick them up on the way home. Don't have time to wait for the book so are there any other hints or tricks I should know or anyone that can tell me a link or maybe email me the edlebrock section of their rebuild manual (Dueling)? :-)
 
Uhhh damn i dont have it with me. Otherwise i coulda scanned it onto the computer at work and emailed u. Sorry dude. Its in the blazer which i wont see till tonight
 
That's cool, I will be pulling the carb tonight and setting up the table for teardown. Any help is appreciated. Have to get it done this weekend though, got to start driving the truck to work now cuz the wife is staying home for last week of pregnancy. Woo hoo
 
Ok well without looking at it heres what i got. There is a linkage on both sides. Just pull the one on the driver side out of the accelerator pump, and the one on the other side to the secondaries i think... Basically you will split the 2 castings apart, u wull see the line. So disconnect whatever is stopping you from this. Then there is like 8 bolts around the top. Remove them and the top part should come off. May need a small pry with screw driver. You will see the floats and the needles connected to the top part. 4 jets will be in the bottom. Be sure to remember were they go as one is shorter iirc. (they are little brass guys with a hole in the center and a slot for flathead screwdriver) Then basically use lots of carb cleaner and stick the nozzle in any holes u find and blow em out. Wipe clean all gasket surfaces. Check float levels. Do reverse :waytogo:
 
I found the pdf for the owners manual for the rebuild. Guess what? Printer is out of ink! so im gonna use my laptop. Looks like Murphy woke up before me and I got up at 5.
 
Well i got the carb off, torn down, cleaned installed new floats and off road needle kit and put back on the truck. Started it up and it dies about 5 minutes after it starts. Its a hard start too. Once its running it runs great but then it dies and is really hard to start after it runs. I am lost! I need this to run today! I have to make it my daily driver cuz the wife needs the car this week. PLEASE HELP
 
Well, usually when you screw up something in the rebuild, it does not run right at all, or quits almost immediately.

The cardinal rule of fixing things, is that when you do something and something else starts going wrong, always suspect what you just did.

Which is good advice in this case, but lets don't take it right away.
Try this first.
Crank it up, leave the hood open, unless you have to drive it to get it to quit, and get ready.

Before it quits, blip the throttle a couple of times. If it responds and does not stumble, it means the accelerator pump is working OK. Which is necessary for this test.

As soon as it quits, pull the top of the air cleaner off, look down inside the throat of the carb, and work the throttle with your hand.
You should see gas squirt into the throat.
If you do, then I would quit worrying about fuel problems for now.

I would concentrate on spark. Most likely the ignition module of other problems with the distributor.

If you do not see gas, then either the float is sticking and causing it to run out, or the fuel pump or filter has problems.

I know this sounds stupid, but make real sure you have plenty of gas in the tank.

You must isolate the problem. Assuming you do not have a major mechanical issue with the engine, its going to be fuel or spark.
Checking for fuel is fast and easy, or you can pull a plug wire after it quits and see if you have a spark.

Also, does it sputter at all when it quits? How about black smoke when it does?

The hard starting might just be the choke out of adjustment, but the quitting probably is not unless the choke is stuck all the way closed.
 
Just went back and reread the beginning of this. Should have done that first. Sounds like you just have a new and improved version of the original problem.

At this point, I would be considering fuel pump, fuel filter, or distributor.

Check for fuel, and if you have some in the carb when it quits, then jump on the dizzy.
 
Ok, this has been an issue for a while. So i replaced the fuel filter hoping that was the issue,NOT the issue. So i did the work on the carb. I had done a tune up last winter new wires, cap and rotor. Still same issue, Hard to start still. Only thing I havent done is fuel pump. But the fuel filter is full of gas, so im guessing the pump is working. Also just wen out and saw i have the linkage on the choke wrong! Have the choke apart now trying to figure out where the linkage should be set?
 
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