carb or fuel injected and age

[Chevy305]

Ok for all of you who are complaining about small engines with carbs:

I work at a lawn mower repair shop. Believe me, FI is a VERY long way off from getting on lawn mowers. The smallest engine I know of that has EFI is some 800cc ATV. EFI on a lawnmower would make a normally $250 mower cost over $1000. And at that point your carbed $250 lawn mower will lost a long time with the propper maintainence and even if it dies, buy a new one or two and even still that would be cheaper that buying one EFI mower. They make mowers today that are very cheap and very easily repaced.

Also I don't see why EFI is REALLY needed on a mower. Carbs do just fine as far as performance. As far as reliability, I've seen engines run perfectly fine off a totally gunked clogged up carb and others that won't run with a spec of dirt in them.

As far as bad gas goes - EFI or carb will still make the mower run poorly or erraticly. By far this is the most common problem I see. People let the mower sit over the winter and wonder why it won't start in the spring. Gas goes bad in about 3 months or so and even worse, I find a lot of water in gas tanks and/or in the bowl of the carb.

Anyone else has any questions about anything lawnmower related, I can answer them.

 

[Thunder]

Ill take FI any day over a carb. Better drivability, Better MPG, less hassles, TBI is simplicity in its purest form. Far more dependable than carb IMHO.
If I ever go back to the dark ages and get a vehicle with a carb, FI would be the first mod I did to it. As far as i am concerned FI is the best thing to happen to internal combustion since gas. I drove my last carbed vehicle over 10 years ago dont miss those toilets a bit.
BTW i'm over 50

 

[Confedneck79K30]

well my 79 has a qjet and my 86 had a holley and that holley, fat enough worked flawlessly offroad, if i could afford/justify it, id go tbi on my 79 when its being built, but i like my brand new remanned 65$ qjet thank you...

fuel injection is rather simple to diagnose with a test light, a couple jumpers and MAYBE a voltmeter.. i diagnosed a bad computer in a 96 grand marquis once with a test light, granted it took a little while, but if you're confident in your OWN ABILITIES, you can do it, id take efi any day over a carb for power, repair, reliability, but carbs are cheap and wont go away anytime soon... efi is available on a 600cc street bike, fwiw...

btw, im only 21, and give me a simple carb any day, they are simpler, to say the least, but id rather fix an efi system on the side of the road than rebuild a carb..

 

[Mastiff]

fuel injection is rather simple to diagnose with a test light, a couple jumpers and MAYBE a voltmeter.. i diagnosed a bad computer in a 96 grand marquis once with a test light, granted it took a little while, but if you're confident in your OWN ABILITIES, you can do it, id take efi any day over a carb for power, repair, reliability, but carbs are cheap and wont go away anytime soon... efi is available on a 600cc street bike, fwiw...

EFI may be easy to repair when you have a known good system, but doing a retrofit requires getting into chip programming and all that stuff. That's the complication I'm talking about. Bone stock just means finding which wire is melted, which sensor went bad, etc. What part of the chip do you adjust if you switch to headers, or open element air cleaner? What if you remove EGR. What if you don't have a knock sensor, how do you adjust for that?

Don't answer the questions, but that's what I'm talking about. I bought all the parts and bolted it on, and the truck would hardly idle. There were some incorrect constants in the guts of the program that I had to find. No corner shop can help you with that.

 

[Chevy305]

EFI may be easy to repair when you have a known good system, but doing a retrofit requires getting into chip programming and all that stuff. That's the complication I'm talking about. Bone stock just means finding which wire is melted, which sensor went bad, etc. What part of the chip do you adjust if you switch to headers, or open element air cleaner? What if you remove EGR. What if you don't have a knock sensor, how do you adjust for that?

Don't answer the questions, but that's what I'm talking about. I bought all the parts and bolted it on, and the truck would hardly idle. There were some incorrect constants in the guts of the program that I had to find. No corner shop can help you with that.

X2...

EFI complicates things pretty heavily, you can hardly go into a motor without having to tweek the computer. And that costs $$. With a carb, all you need to do is rejet or adjust a screw or two.