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Carb Spacer

sweetk30 said:
were do you spend most of the time rpm wise ? ? ? that will answer your question .

and if you wana cheat yes 4 hole . :surepal:
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I spend most of the time at 0... honestly cruising around 1800-2000 if memory serves. Usually around 35-50mph.
So, nitrous and no carb spacer? Got it.
 
the spacer will help with heat soak. Heat soak is when you drive long enough to get the engine thoroughly warmed up, then shut it off for 10 to 15 mins, everything get warmer. Including the carb, which can cause the gas to boil in the bowl. When you go to restart the engine will be difficult to start, normally a long crank with some amount of throttle peddle. AZ summer will exaggerate this.
 
Wes Harden said:
the spacer will help with heat soak. Heat soak is when you drive long enough to get the engine thoroughly warmed up, then shut it off for 10 to 15 mins, everything get warmer. Including the carb, which can cause the gas to boil in the bowl. When you go to restart the engine will be difficult to start, normally a long crank with some amount of throttle peddle. AZ summer will exaggerate this.
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Yes... which is exactly why I want one of these. Torque, hp etc I’m not too concerned about if at all.
 
Ordered them up..I just picked up both versions, open and bored. I needed some other stuff and was just shy for the free shipping fill-your-cart a bit more, sucker... soooo
 
Certainly won’t hurt, I used the Edelbrock EDE8726 made for a Quadrajet.
A bigger problem could be too much Fuel pressure and expansion after shutdown overcoming your needle /seat causing fuel to dump into the intake causing hot start problems.
Vapor lock with E85 is a problem also with carbed vehicles.
 
Spaces arrived today...does everything need to be removed from the carb to install? Vacuum and fuel lines, throttle etc or?
 
if its all flexabile and old gasket comes off super clean and you can get the old studs out or bolts then lift it up / slide it in with gaskets . then install longer bolts or studs and clamp down . 1" on your old combo should be fine . make sure there is flex in the fuel line and cables after is all .
 
sweetk30 said:
if its all flexabile and old gasket comes off super clean and you can get the old studs out or bolts then lift it up / slide it in with gaskets . then install longer bolts or studs and clamp down . 1" on your old combo should be fine . make sure there is flex in the fuel line and cables after is all .
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Thanks, boss...
 
Glad I ordered both versions. As I was turning to grab the bored spacer it fell and broke... doh..

Installed the open version and tightened everything down but not too crazy. Hopefully no vacuum leaks...

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Is that metal fuel filter setting on the hottest part of the intake manifold?????
 
frankin5 said:
Is that metal fuel filter setting on the hottest part of the intake manifold?????
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The dudes who put the engine had it like that. But yeah it never made sense to me, since I haven’t really driven it since the install I left it. But now that I drive it more it’s next on my list after I got the spacer installed.


Edit: Ok... it’s all up off the intake. Was able to finagle it up off and have it lay on the valve cover. Some heat shield on the choke wire behind the carb... should be ok now.

Do you recommend another type of fuel filter? I’ve always used those see through plastic ones in the past.
 
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Yes, the shop that put the engine, although having a decent page and work to view. They left a bit to be desired once I got the truck home. Nevermind what came to light after them installing the headers... holy shit if it were my shop.... anyway.

I should have just dont it all myself.. After having the engine put in, I’ve done everything else myself (minus the exhaust), with the help of the guys here.
 
Metal one is fine, plastic is fine

Varying opinions on the filter location, I personally like them on the frame, where its easier to get the gas in your eye when you change them...
 
Any gas filter is better than the ones GM put IN the carb,that requires you to unscrew and STRIP the threads in the carb for the fitting, to replace the stupid paper or brass cartridge--which just allows dirt to go right past it if it plugs up,being backed up by a spring..

First thing I did to many of my GM vehicles was get that filter out (if the carb wasn't already fudged there),and install an in-line universal filter in an easier location to get at, away from heat..
 
I have a mr gasket one on I installed in Cali because of the extra heat. It does help quite a bit and it’s been on about 20 years with no issue. And you pickup a couple hp as well.
 
My toe rig, 83 K30 with carbureted 496, was having vapor lock and gas boiling issues. Put a wooden spaced on and seemed to really improve hot weather performance.
 
PANCAKE said:
My toe rig, 83 K30 with carbureted 496, was having vapor lock and gas boiling issues. Put a wooden spaced on and seemed to really improve hot weather performance.
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Holy crap dude, long time no hear from!
 
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