Changed the GP's but.....

[Russell]

Wiring for the glow plugs is pretty simple.

There is a cable that runs from a battery source (starter post, firewall junction block, alternator or possibly the battery itself) into a big heavy duty relay, from the relay it comes out into two thick orange wires, at the end of each wire the four fusible links for each bank of glow plugs spliced on.

Depending on the type of relay you have, there may be differences in how it is wired up, but I'm going to assume you are using the earlier style of glow plug relay, which is basically a divorced starter solenoid similar to what earlier Fords use. In that case, your manual glow plug switch inside the dash will run 12 volts out to the relay's "S" terminal.

If you are loosing that much voltage, you've either got a bad set of fusible links, or your relay is in poor shape.

 

[tRustyK5]

With the early style glow controller, if he has a manual switch all it should be doing is grounding the light blue wire which trips the relay sending power to the GP's. The problem has to be between the relay and the GP's themselves.

I'd double check there is an engine ground strap present, hooked up and in good shape. Poor ground can cause poor voltage like that. With the jumper cable method obviously he'd be bypassing any potential ground problems.

Rene

 

[stoney126]

Lets see engine ground strap I t would be from the block to the frame right? I dont see one but Im sure what im looking for I f I remember right shouldnt it be braided steel about an inch in width?

Im pretty lost when it comes to wiring but I think I should be able to check those things out

 

[Volare]

Speaking of which,

What is the status of the battery terminals?

 

[stoney126]

Very clean

 

[stoney126]

A pic of the engine bay.

 

[tRustyK5]

Ground strap should be passenger side rear of engine, braided, about 3/4" wide and go from passenger head to the body. Good idea to have one from engine to frame too...

Rene

 

[joez]

ok pulled a plug, hooked up cables and in 4 seconds glowing red. I connected the GP wire to the spade and after 15 seconds it got hot but no glowing red.

So could it be the wires? or the connectors im using? I got em at osh so maybe I need a different/better type?

Could be either one, could be a bad ground from your block to the frame as well.

Using the jumper cable method, try grounding to the frame and applying voltage, and then to the block and see if there is any difference in time to glow. This was how i found out i had bad ground straps on my VW. Its alot easier to run a new ground strap or two than it is to run a new GP harness.

If you find that its the actual GP wiring thats shot, i think i still have a spare GP harness from a 6.5TD truck laying arround, i can't remember if i tossed it when i moved or not. Im a pretty big packrat but that might be something i figured id never use again. If i still got it you could have it, it was pulled from a wrecked 2000 that had like 38K miles on it.

 

[kennyw]

Another thing... is this a CUCV that has been converted to 12V? If so you need to remove the resistor bank from the glow plug circuit.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I gotta ask...maybe it's a civilian vs CUCV thing or part of the 12v conversion...but...

 

[k20]

that looks kinda like a remote solenoid for the starter.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Could be.

However one of the recommended replacements for the POS GP relay the CUCV's originally had is a starter relay in another application.

 

[kennyw]

I gotta ask...maybe it's a civilian vs CUCV thing or part of the 12v conversion...but...

The part you have circled and marked as a glow plug resistor is actually the glow plug relay... I have no idea what the other thing is you have circled. I've never seen it on a civi or military truck.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Derp, relay...yeah, I know that.



(In my defence the fourth Dirty Harry was on and I was hurriedly typing that on a commercial break.)

 

[stoney126]

Sorry a lil background It is a cucv that the previous owner converted to a 12 volt system and added a manual gp switch. When I got it it was using only one battery. I have since added a second battery but its still 12v.

Also If that ground is there it wouldnt hurt to add another? What the hell might as well

Thanks a bunch guys for helping me out with all this.

 

[kennyw]

I believe the resistor that needs to be removed is mounted behind the air cleaner/motor.

 

[Volare]

Any Updates on this matter?

 

[stoney126]

Nope not yet, I get home way to late to do any work. Will do a few things tommorow after work, only half day on Saturdays

 

[stoney126]

ok I pulled the resistor and connected those 2 wires together. I plan on replacing them with a single wire very soon, this just to see if it worked. And it did sorta. I went to about 7-8 seconds and a lil revs and it started.

Also there is no braided ground wire i looked to see if it was hidden even checked the driver side head and nothing there either. Sooo im gonna pick up 2 of them. One to run form there and one from the engine to the frame.

 

[stoney126]

woops found the ground wire, its alot smaller then I thought it would be. The ends dont look bad perhaps a lil aged. Ill pull it and give it a cleaning. Also the end that meets the firewall isnt completely flush but I would say 80% contact.