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Changing gear ratio's and got questions

K5Cobb

K5Cobb

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I have never been into the chuck on a chevy, I rebuilt my samurai one time, but it is nothing like my k5. What tools will I need and what will I expect to run into changing the gears to 4.11's? Also while I am in it, I am thinking about putting a locker or limited slip in it, 4X4 is only 2WD and I want more traction. This truck runs up the road but is only in 4x4 in the mud or dirt roads. My ears are open for yall's input. :ears: Its 10bolts or what ever factory was in 87 on half ton. Thanks
 
You have 10 bolts.

At the least you need a dail indictor with a magnetic stand to check backlash on a gear swap. I would lik to have a pinoin depth gauge but it is not a must.

If you have not set up a lot of gears you might be better off to let a pro do it on a truck that sees a lot of street miles.
 
yeah, save the money for a posi and have someone else do it for you. Unless of course you've already worked with above mentioned tool, shims, feeler gauges, etc. I don't think you want a locker if it's street driven at all, not in a 10 bolt. A good eaton with heavy springs would be good in the back.
 
hmmmm, ok well there goes the idea of saving some money haha. but on the other hand, it will be on the street a good bit, and ive heard a couple of horror stories of them blowing up or busting an axle while turning, what would yall suggest for it. I want to put somewhere around 4.11's in it. when I built the engine I bored it 40 over and put a bullet proof 700R4 with stock np208 and 35 12.50 baja claws
 
Anyone can set up gears, but plan on it taking longer than you think, be careful pulling your old bearings and use them for set up bearings. It will require alot of patience on your part
 
I give up...what's the second tool?



As far as driving, expect quicker acceleration, and more usable torque quicker...

I put an Eaton posi and 4:10's in my old 89 p.u., I miss that truck...the biggest complaint I had was I needed a chip for the speedo to work right...they were unavaible at any reasonable price....

the speedo read 15 mph faster than the truck was going...:whistle:
 
carrier bearing puller with zero damage to the bearings.

if you have used a power steering pump pulley puller before just make it about 100x bigger. this will do little stuff up to dana 80 big bearings. i have used it 1 time already and WOW best bang for the buck. i got few more axles to setup so it will pay for its self . along with the case spreader.
 
62 fat guy, did you have stock shafts or after market, and did you ever break any with the eaton?
 
For 35's I'd seriously look into 4.56's or even 4.88's...4.10's you won't be happy with as the OD will be almost useless. 4.56's it'll be running at ~2000 rpm in OD at 65 mph. Not bad...4.88's would be ~2150 rpm at 65.

4.10's in OD at 65 mph would be 1790 rpm...lugging and hunting in and out of OD on grades.

I currently run 3.42's with 35's and a 700R-4. I tried running the freeway in OD and my mileage was a little over 10 mpg (1500 rpm at 65), and it was always lugging and hunting. It actually works a ton better in drive (2200 at 65) and my mileage is closer to 15 now.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
For 35's I'd seriously look into 4.56's or even 4.88's...4.10's you won't be happy with as the OD will be almost useless. 4.56's it'll be running at ~2000 rpm in OD at 65 mph. Not bad...4.88's would be ~2150 rpm at 65.

4.10's in OD at 65 mph would be 1790 rpm...lugging and hunting in and out of OD on grades.

I currently run 3.42's with 35's and a 700R-4. I tried running the freeway in OD and my mileage was a little over 10 mpg (1500 rpm at 65), and it was always lugging and hunting. It actually works a ton better in drive (2200 at 65) and my mileage is closer to 15 now.

Rene
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What he said.

Considered a bigger rear axle? Limited slips suck and with 35's you'll be pushing it a bit with 10 bolts and wheeling. Depends what you want to do though.
 
K5Cobb said:
62 fat guy, did you have stock shafts or after market, and did you ever break any with the eaton?
Click to expand...


Mine were stock 30 splines. (10 bolt) It was a 2wd, never broke an axle. Gave it to my ex when we split, I see it in town from time to time. I wish I had done it sooner....loved the 4.10...felt like a truck should, imo.

side note, saw my ex and my Darling Bride side by side at the the bank drive through two weeks ago....I kept going....:whistle::whistle::D
 
62 fat guy said:
side note, saw my ex and my Darling Bride side by side at the the bank drive through two weeks ago....I kept going....:whistle::whistle::D
Click to expand...
hyjack
:doah:
OMG, do they know each other? Never had that happen, I think that action was good enough till the :shame: then :sign5: and finally :weapon42:starts.
*hyjack off
 
tRustyK5 said:
For 35's I'd seriously look into 4.56's or even 4.88's...4.10's you won't be happy with as the OD will be almost useless. 4.56's it'll be running at ~2000 rpm in OD at 65 mph. Not bad...4.88's would be ~2150 rpm at 65.

4.10's in OD at 65 mph would be 1790 rpm...lugging and hunting in and out of OD on grades.

I currently run 3.42's with 35's and a 700R-4. I tried running the freeway in OD and my mileage was a little over 10 mpg (1500 rpm at 65), and it was always lugging and hunting. It actually works a ton better in drive (2200 at 65) and my mileage is closer to 15 now.

Rene
Click to expand...
Yea, I toasted my 700R4 a couple week ago with 33's on a good lil trip. It hated me and was shifting b/t drive and OD haha, so thats what brought on the change. I will prb go with 4.88, what kinda mileage do you think it will be cuz it sucks right now :angry1: haha
 
sweetk30 said:
sounds like someone should have just shifted to 3rd and left it. :whistle:
Click to expand...

yea :screwy: idk what I was thinking, and the fact my new detent was stuck open finished it off :thinking: On a good note and 1200 bucks later I have a bullet proof 700R :D
 
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sweetk30 said:
these 2 tools would make it go alot faster also. :whistle:
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(not these 2 tools, but all the specialty tools) Now, can i pull the chunk out and put it back in without these specialty tools, or does it have to be aligned. the reason i asked is, I am trying to do all the time consuming work and pay some one to do the tedious work to save some $$$$$$ :dunno: I didnt know if the tools were to align the gear on the chunk or if they had everything to do with the whole thing.
 
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