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Changing wheel stud size?

Clint's84K5inAZ

Clint's84K5inAZ

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I have a new set of superior axles for my 12 bolt and a new set of hub/rotors for my D44 that I'm going to install with my 4:88's. Since I need to buy new wheel studs to put in the axles anyway I was thinking about putting in 1/2" studs to improve strength. Has anyone else done this with their 1/2 ton axles? I also wanted to put wheel spacers on the rear to make it the same width as the front and I don't trust doing this on a 7/16 stud. While I have not lost a wheel due to the 7/16 studs breaking I have had studs break and have seen it happen to other rigs. I have access to required tooling to make this the right way. I am running a detroit in the 12 bolt and a lockrite in the d44 with 35" BFG's, aluminum wheels and stock disc/drum brakes. Any input or advice anyone may have would be helpful.
 
first..go to the Dorman catalog PDF, and look at what they have before you drill out larger....shank sizes are different even within the same stud thread size.
 
Moroso and ARP sell 3" long studs that are a lot stronger and better quality than anything Dorman can dream of. Go to Jegs and find the right combination of knurl diameter and thread size.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&N=0&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B1147708&searchTerm=wheel+studs

NewTruckParts044.jpg


NewTruckParts045.jpg
 
Thanks. Did you put 1/2" studs on your front axle also? If so what did you use to cover the longer shoulder length and different knurl location. I have not found those on Jegs or Summit. It's my understanding that I need to maintain the correct pressed fit rotor to hub. I was thinking I might call Currie or another after market builder for these.
 
I knew that Chevy305 would post that even before I opened this thread...

The truth is you can go all the way to 9/16s and save a lot of money if they will fit through the wheels. However, you have to drill the front hubs a little to do it. It's on my list of planned future mods.

The 1/2" ARP stud has a longer knurl. So the knurling will engage both the rotor and the hub instead of how the original design works.
 
Clint's84K5inAZ said:
Thanks. Did you put 1/2" studs on your front axle also? If so what did you use to cover the longer shoulder length and different knurl location. I have not found those on Jegs or Summit. It's my understanding that I need to maintain the correct pressed fit rotor to hub. I was thinking I might call Currie or another after market builder for these.
Click to expand...

The ones i got were a few thousanths too big and i couldn't pound them in. So I had to ream the hub/rotor and I used a very light touch with a bench grinder on the studs. The knurls are pretty deep so they can still hold just fine. Then it still took a lot of pounding with a BFH to get them in. They were a necessity on my aluminum wheels because the factory studs were not long enough to give me enough thread engagement on my lug nuts and ended up stripping several.

THis is how much the longer studs stick out on the front hubs. As you can see there are a few threads that stick out still and they have the easy start nipple that can help with preventing the ends from stipping even with the higher strength steel.

CIMG0520.jpg


Not 100% sure but I think these might have been the ones I used. I lost the part number but as you can see these have a longer knurl:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q313/Hawaiig146/CIMG0520.jpg

070-100-7706.jpg
 
Great, thanks! Now that I know those studs will work on the front I will go ahead and get them. My friend has a mill and press to open up the holes and press the new studs in so that should make it go a little smoother.
 
Clint's84K5inAZ said:
Great, thanks! Now that I know those studs will work on the front I will go ahead and get them. My friend has a mill and press to open up the holes and press the new studs in so that should make it go a little smoother.
Click to expand...

I would double check the knurl diameter before ordering to make sure I grabbed the right one.

EDIT: When you do put them in, make sure you lubricate the threads ;)
 
If you are just running steel wheels, the studs from an 80;s model ford are 1/2''. You will have to drill the front hubs out. For the rear just use studs from a 2 wheel drive chevy. They are 1/2''.
 
I went ARP 9/16 x 3" in a front 10 bolt to match the rear 9+ Currie axles I am using. Had to re-drill the wheels. No issues at all
 
I thought about 9/16 but the lugs won't work with my aluminum wheels. I decided to go with the 1/2 ARP which will be more than strong enough with 35's. Thank's for all the replies, the info really saved me some time figuring out what would work and what to order.
 
ktmoutfront said:
I went ARP 9/16 x 3" in a front 10 bolt to match the rear 9+ Currie axles I am using. Had to re-drill the wheels. No issues at all
Click to expand...
So you didn't have to drill the hub or rotor? Do you have part numbers?
 
Drilling was involved.

As for part number, I walked into Kartek, walked behind the counter, picked out what I needed. My buddy said 2 bucks a piece. I paid cash and walked out. That was 6 years ago. No part numbers.
 
I got a question ...

I got the 12 bolt out back and want to pound some bigger studs in there but what if the shoulders is too long, wouls that cause an issue?? im guessng as long as the knurl is in the flange right.. or do i just need to pick ones with the knurl all the way back to the head just like the stock ones.
 
bot0611 said:
I got a question ...

I got the 12 bolt out back and want to pound some bigger studs in there but what if the shoulders is too long, wouls that cause an issue?? im guessng as long as the knurl is in the flange right.. or do i just need to pick ones with the knurl all the way back to the head just like the stock ones.
Click to expand...

Ya you would need to pick out ones with a short knurl, the front hubs require a long knurl because the have to go through the brake rotors.
 
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