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Charging issue. at 16.8 volts

Kain

3/4 ton status
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Mar 16, 2011
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Lubbock Texas
well I guess my blazer is mad at me. the fuel pump went out yesterday. no warning just quit. as i was noticeing the volt gauge charging at 17 volts. so i put an after market gauge on it and checked it with a volt meter.
the next thing is to trace all the hot wires to everything and see where i had a bad one. no luck there.

SO next step is trace the grounds and i found a couple that where green so i changed them and checked again.
i took a few pics and here they are.

My question is what else do i look for?. i know that this high voltage will burn the thing to the ground. dont have the money to take it in to have it looked at either. i am at a lose as to why its doing this. and i bet thats what killed the 125 dollar fuel pump

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i had it checked along with the battery. would there test show good and still be bad
 
Hook up jumper cables directly from the battery + to the charge wire (larger one with the ring terminal) and from the battery - to the alternator case. This will eliminate the charging side and grounding from the equation.

If the problem is still there, unplug the regulator plug and run a wire directly from the battery + to the alternator plug.

If it is still overcharging, you have a bad alternator. If this fixed the problem, it's a wiring issue.
 
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i went ahead and changed the alternator and the fuel pump sounds better and it is not as bad but still there.only 15. 4 volts but should not be but 14.5
 
Hook up jumper cables directly from the battery + to the charge wire (larger one with the ring terminal) and from the battery - to the alternator case. This will eliminate the charging side and grounding from the equation.

If the problem is still there, unplug the regulator plug and run a wire directly from the battery + to the alternator plug.

If it is still overcharging, you have a bad alternator. If this fixed the problem, it's a wiring issue.
i will try this in the morning its a little hot today
 
Change your battery in the voltmeter. They read high when they get low. I wasted a ton of money on my minivan before reloading that.
 
well the new gauge does this too
and both meters i have do this and the second one is not a cheap one
 
i did 3 times now. took it out and used the inside tester instead of the a small handheald
 
My money is on a bad connection at the power tap/distribution block. Either on the firewall or the starter solenoid.
 
on this junction block there are two wires that run to the starter. can i run an 4 gauge wire in the place of these 2?
Yes i know messy. need to clean it up and wire loom everything.

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NO!!
If its the wires I think you are talking about, they are not wires........Well, of course, they are wires, but they are also fuses. Known as fuse links.
They are a certain size with flame resistant insulation. They are designed to melt if something shorts out and prevent fires.
 
you can see where the previous owner cut them out. i have to put something in its place. unless i can get fuseable link wire for that
 
Found that this evening while i was looking for a short and need to replace it with something else or a big fuse
 
You can buy fusible link wire. I don't remember where I saw it the other day, but I'll bet someone here will know.
A lot of folks have replaced the links with fuses. I'm of two minds about that.
On the one hand, if the fuse is protected, and the holder is not bothered by heat or moisture, it would be more corrosion resistant than the wire, and would tend to "modernize" the system.
But, the fusible link is probably going to be more forgiving of a brief overload than a fuse. When dealing with electronics, you want a fast blowing fuse to help minimize damage in case of a short.
But when just protecting wires, fast blowing fuses are a nuisance.
Of course, if you do go fuses, get spares.
 
i have to replace those two wires completely. there is 10 splices in the wiring loom thats on there and thats to many.
why not replace it while i have it apart. get rid of a potential problem.
 
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