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Cheap Link arms

miniwally

miniwally

St. Javier
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So in my quest to find the lowest cost on link arms I figured out a way to just use some pipe, fire, large hammer and a hand drill to make a very low cost link arms.
I figure if I take like 2" schedule 80 pipe that I can get for free from job sites. Cut it to length and heat the ends up red hot then smash them with a hammer real good and flat I can then just drill like a 3/4" hole in the flat part and put like a 5/8" bolt through the hole and in to the mounts on the chassis.
If the mounts on the chassis are the right width the arm can just rotate on the bolt and move around to provide mis alignment.

What yall think of my idea. I will try to get pics of this this weekend cause I think I am going to do it.
 
Wow.

The first thought is that it would be pretty sloppy. The sloppyness would (IMHO) generate poor traction control and it would rattle like all hell. You would also waller out the holes in the pipe or break bolts at the same time.

But it would be cheap! I think you would be better off with a leaf setup in this case instead of a swingset looking setup.

You are talking suspension right?
 
I don't think you need the drill, use the torch to cut the hole, that way it's flame hardened.
 
Lets run with this for fun.

If you could weld some spacing on each side of the flattened bar to make it a few inches thick or something and then get a bushing around the bolts so there is some cushion, you might be onto something!
 
sled_dog said:
would wear and fatigue the bolts as well.
Click to expand...

I guess I could run like some grade nine bolts from the tractor store or something.
Do you think that a larger bolt would work better. I don't want to drill to big a hole in the end and loose all the strength of the schedule 80 pipe.
 
Sand man I find what you are saying very offensive and would like for you to edit your post so the rest of the people don't read that kinda dribble on this board.





Thanks
 
Thank you. I am sure everyone appritiates you doing that but no one more than me.
 
Actually I think that you could wrap some bailing wire around those connections to get them to stop rattling. I think that and a little chewing gum would really hold up well. Also, there's no need to actually weld anything, JB weld would definitely hold up well for your application. Best of luck, make sure and post pics when you're done.
 
I don't think we would kid around about something as ground breaking as this new idea. Frankly I'm a little miffed at my brother for letting the cat out of the bag before I could patent the idea and incorporate it into a suspension kit. Miniwally, no beer for you! And I'm hiding the Jack too. Wow, that's almost haiku.
 
I think large + sleeved pipe could be used... but I think the flattening of ends/bolts idea probably couldn't be made to work. Is there a reason for doing this other than saving $ on heims or cartridge joints?

j
 
It's all about the cheap. Could you imagine? These arms could be almost free! If you were good with a torch you could even slot the holes a little so that it would arcilate better.
 
You could...but then you'd have to rig up some sort of anti-wrap bar. Maybe you could score some re-bar at the job site. That'd do an excellent job.
 
We will have a job going on that will be using like #8 bar or larger.

Why would I need anti wrap bars. I realize that there will be a little slop in the ends but that probably will only be a high speeds. I don't think I will ever take the buggy over like 90 to 100 MPH. I would think that little amount of slop would be fine at those speeds.
 
You'd have to get re-bar really hot to make it flat enough to work, I think we better stick to pipe.
 
Stephen said:
You'd have to get re-bar really hot to make it flat enough to work, I think we better stick to pipe.
Click to expand...

Good point, but you could just use a really long piece of all-thread and jb weld nuts on the axle and a crossmember, that way it'd be adjustable.
 
Hey, you could use the re-bar and just weld a pair of washers on it with the mount sandwiched between them. It would work just like a ford radius arm mount except better because you don't have that pesky bushing binding up your suspension. You could even stack the re-bar up to make it stronger so you won't bend them as easy. Of course that would use up twice as much re-bar that could be use on some other part of the vehicle.
Think of the rotational ability of this kind of mount! This could be way better.

Hope this doesn't give away any secrets, I think this is an idea I could really use. I've probably said too much already.
 
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