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CHEAP welder. - now with welding advice!

sadly, the beaker for my garage can't handle the welder. It will handle everything else, but not the welder alone. Currently dicking around at work with scrap pipe and pieces of steel. When I say scrap, I mean tiny pieces of scrap. :) I'll grab some supplies and try to hobble something together next week while work is slow.
 
I lucked out and go my bottle for free. My dad's boss got a few of them out of a storage building he bought and gave me one. It is the biggest bottle that you can get from the local welding supply store and here you have to buy them.

For that bottle I would go check it out and make sure it is argon and what company it comes from. Even though I own my bottle I can only exchange it at airgas co. IIRC it was going to cost me $200 plus filling charges to get the 100cf bottle from my supplier.
 
yeah, the price is good compared to what I'd have to pay for a new one, I just wasn't sure if argon is what I wanted, or if i could put anything else in it.

I'll make sure it's fillable too.
 
Just posting to say that I picked up a Licoln 140HD at Home Depot last year. It was clearanced for being open box, but only missing the "how to weld" dvd. Got away with applying the .mil discount and walked out with it for $350.

The wife just scored a TJ back seat for free and is going to try making a garage couch out of it for her first fab and welding project.
 
Jumped on the Eastwood welder bandwagon.....we'll see how it works....
 
My bottle was for straight argon, they just had to recertify it for c25. Id ask around to see what all it costs to do that, and if they can with different types of bottles as far as if its another companies sticker on it etc.
 
I decided that the one I linked was too big for what I wanted to do. I did find a 125 cf bottle, full (c25), for $120. should work out pretty well.
 
ashman said:
I decided that the one I linked was too big for what I wanted to do. I did find a 125 cf bottle, full (c25), for $120. should work out pretty well.
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Idk how much you have been messin with flux core or not. Just be warned that with gas you wont penetrate as much and its really picky about having clean metal. Lots of oxidation and rust and it just wont penetrate.
 
I would recommend buying your bottle. Price depends on size.

Just today I had my 2.2 bottle exchanged for only $124 after taxes and fees. The 2.2 is a huge ass bottle, and I like it because I can go longer between fills.

I run 75% 25% but know others who run straight C02
 
I never messed with flux since I was able to buy that bottle. gonna do some reading, but so far doesn't seem too hard.

how do I tell for sure that I'm getting good penetration? (ask her? lol )
 
ashman said:
I never messed with flux since I was able to buy that bottle. gonna do some reading, but so far doesn't seem too hard.

how do I tell for sure that I'm getting good penetration? (ask her? lol )
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Well she should make some odd noises.....:D Lol. But really the edges of the weld will blend in to the metal instead of looking like they are just laying on top.
 
ok cool. just wanted to know if there was some other sign I should be looking for.
 
When you complete a pass look at the back of the 2 peices you are putting together. There should be a nice cherry red glow I would say at least twice the width as your bead. The back side will always tell you the penatration you are getting and the glow should last a few seconds rather than just dissapate.

Also with gas you should push your weld rather than pull your weld it will give you a better veiw of the seam and with the right tip stroke better penatration and straighter welds. Most begginers pull the tip way to fast or get the heat setting wrong. I usually find the amperage for a good weld and turn the heat up a 1/4 turn more (i.e. if it welds well at 9 I turn it up to 9 1/4). Just not to hot to blow through.

Since welding is a feel skill as long as you get speed and heat correct then the rest comes with practice. Others may disagree but I have found you have to find what fits your style. When all else fails have fun with it find scrap a keep burning till you figure out your machine. Welding is always better when you are relaxed.
 
If your weld lays flat, or bumps up, it usually that means you do not have good penetration. This is not always the case though. For example if you are welding a 90, the weld should be slightly in a u shape. The normally means that the puddle penetrated the gap

from eastwoods site

19031Q-8.1.jpg



this is for a butt hopefully you can understand what i am talking about.

kinda an example here

gmaw-101-setting-the-correct-parameters-good-weld-image.jpg



practice, practice, practice.

Remember 90% of the time its not the weld that fails, but the metal around it. :thumb:
 
good tips and good links all around. thanks a ton guys! :thumb:

Jester1 said:
When you complete a pass look at the back of the 2 peices you are putting together. There should be a nice cherry red glow I would say at least twice the width as your bead. The back side will always tell you the penatration you are getting and the glow should last a few seconds rather than just dissapate.
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ok, cool. on a few practice passes I did look at the back side of the ones I thought felt good and that is pretty much what I saw. sweet!

Also with gas you should push your weld rather than pull your weld it will give you a better veiw of the seam and with the right tip stroke better penatration and straighter welds.
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ah. didn't know that either. I've been pulling. I'll try pushing and see how it goes.
 
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