What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Chrome alloy D44 shafts

HINZ28

HINZ28

1/2 ton status
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Jan 19, 2012
Posts
984
Reaction score
2,897
Location
Nebraska
Im sure this has been gone over but i want opinions for my set up. I have a a D44/4.88/lock-right in my 89 K5 350/700r4/241/36" SS Iroks

Heres the deal i have one Chrome moly shaft in the long side inner and outer. Just last week i popped a joint off my stock short shaft and destroyed both short inner and outer. If i buy a Chrome moly, my D44 will be strong but will it be strong enough? Where would my next weak link be?

Will my D44 be "undestrucable :whistle:" Or is it now time for a 60?

Where is the best/Cheapest place to find a just a short Chrome moly inner and outer?
 
Yukons is what I have, never broke them in 7 or so years with 39s and a 454. Hubs will most likely be your weak point. Not saying it wont break, but I have seen 35spline Dana 60 shafts break, and 14ff shafts break, so anything can break. Just depends on how much brain you use while wheeling, and how much skinny pedal. The people that hit stuff full tilt no matter what is the crowd that breaks stuff, and I see them as more or less morons, why go that far out of your way to break stuff and ruin a day when you can take it a bit slower and wheel all day? That being said, it also depends on weight, and your environment. I come in at just shy of 7000lbs, with a warmed over BBC, 5.13s and lockers front and rear, and my only breakage has been 2 cheapie Warn hubs and 1 unlubed front driveshaft. But my area of wheeling is all sloppy mud with very little chance for "instant traction", which is the leading cause for snapped and exploded parts.


A 60 is the best in the end, but many can get away with a 44/10bt just the same. Really it depends on how much your willing to spend.
 
I had a D44 and 12-bolt both with CrMo shafts and 35s for several years. I never had any problems. I stuck to moderate to hard crawling locally and at Moab and drove with a light right foot most of the time. But, I was always worried that I would be "that guy" on the trails. I knew I wanted lower gearing and larger tires. So, I swaped them out for a D60, 14-bolt, 37s and added a doubler. Why worry, do the upgrade to a D60 if you can swing the $$$.
 
How many 60s have a found you dorks for $800 or less?
 
Cant really swing the money right now. Just curious how well this 300$ shaft is going to hold up compared to a $40 junk yard pull out
 
I have a hard time thinking it is 7.5 times better.
 
I know a 60 here goes for 800 to 1000. Ok, then factor in bearings, seals, gears, locker, stub shafts, hubs, u-joints, adds up.

Im looking for one, just havent found one cheap enough to warrent me buying it, my 10bt works fine so far, and I can spend the money elsewhere where I need it, like an A-Bomb front bumper to stiffen my frame up, ORD crossmember to do the same, and some new adjustable rear shocks.
 
there was a $500 one here not long ago. I bought a whole cab chassis for $1000 not long ago and my blue truck was $900. They are out there. Maybe they all do need rebuilt but mine has only had the seals replaced. Most 10 bolts will need all of those parts too.
 
I run the yukons in my 10b front.
Never had a problem.

I even wheeled on 37's, and H1's.

If you want a d60, and have the $$$ to burn, by all means go ahead.
But us cheap skates are doin alright on chro-mos.
 
The real answer is do you find yourself looking at bigger tires?

If so then the only answer is a 60.

Up to 38s with a front locker is about the reliable limit for a half ton axle. Go to 40s with a front locker all of a sudden you are breaking stuff again.

This isn't from reading the interweb either this is from knowing alot of guys who have run 44s and chro mos. When they go over a 38 it seems that when things start breaking again.

Even on 38s these guys have broken some stuff. But we do mostly rocks out here.

Remember there are other advantages to going to a 60, I noticed a huge increase in braking power when I went from a 10 bolt to a 60, at the same time I went to a taller tire on beadlocked rims that added about 20 lbs to my old wheel tire combo. Even with the extra weight I could brake better with my 60 and 40s than I could with my 10 bolt and 38s
 
He is nuts like the rest of us so we all know the answer is a 60. He has my old 36s now but we all seem to go bigger and bigger.
 
Thats been my plan to find a whole 1 ton rust bucket with hopefully a BB, ideally 4L80 and a 205. Then part it out and make the money back. But so far thats been a pipe dream.
 
So any recommendations on where to buy chrome moly shafts. Everyone seems to sell them as kits
 
Do you already have beefed Ujoints and stuff? Most of the time I think they're sold as kits for a pretty good reason. If you've got good inners and outers but crap Ujoints then what's the point. Same thing for all three components on each side. The weak link in my setup are my 35 spline Warn premium lockouts. Much easier to change a lockout on the trail than an axle or Ujoint. I can just machine a set of drive flanges to replace a blown out lockout if need be. (in advance of course)

This: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-mg22172/overview/make/chevrolet/model/k20-pickup

Seems pretty legit for the price: It doesn't specify the Ujoint quality, but that would be easy enough to find out.

As you can see... $589 towards beefing up a D44 would go a long way to a D60, But then most 60s would need a little TLC too.

I agree that if you plan on sticking with 36s then a 44 would pry be fine, but if you ever plan on bumping it up, you're way money ahead getting a 60 now.

This is all my opinion, but engineering what's most likely to break out on the trail seems like a pretty good tactic to me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom