digitalepiphany
1/2 ton status
I didn't circle anything. That's the image from the link you posted above.
CK5
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Circuit breaker holder/relay/whatever-the-hell-it's-called?
- Thread starter digitalepiphany
- Start date
I didn't circle anything. That's the image from the link you posted above.
digitalepiphany
1/2 ton status
I'll definitely check the wrecking yard. I didn't ask the sales person until I had already looked over the entire wire section two or three times.
Take a look at this link and I think what you are looking for is on the lower right of the page. http://www.picowiring.com/pdf/Cat-14.pdf
digitalepiphany
1/2 ton status
Are you talking about the ".250 Brass Female Locks Into Plastic Body?"
Where I can I find this kind of stuff? Other than online, that is. I've tried O'Reilly's, AutoZone, and Radio Shack. Not sure where else to go. I've never had to buy electrical/electronic stuff before.
I still think you're looking at improving a hack instead of making things right. Maybe you can provide more information. What transmission was stock in the vehicle? Why did your tranny guy do any wiring outside the transmission case? Wasn't there tranny wiring from the factory? Was anything else added to the setup like a speed control or a vacuum switch when this tranny was put in?
You want the brake pedal circuit in place at minimum. Having something tapped right into the fuse block implies all that has been bypassed. Ideally you will have the factory circuit including the vac switch (near the brake booster), the 4WD relay (under dash) and the brake switch (near brake pedal, obviously). It sounds like your tranny guy was too lazy to figure this out or the 700 was swapped in place of something else. There are threads here laying all this out if you search.
Here's the vac switch:
The wiring is something like this:
Obviously replacing all of that with a single wire to the fuse block is not the same thing.
You want the brake pedal circuit in place at minimum. Having something tapped right into the fuse block implies all that has been bypassed. Ideally you will have the factory circuit including the vac switch (near the brake booster), the 4WD relay (under dash) and the brake switch (near brake pedal, obviously). It sounds like your tranny guy was too lazy to figure this out or the 700 was swapped in place of something else. There are threads here laying all this out if you search.
Here's the vac switch:
The wiring is something like this:
Obviously replacing all of that with a single wire to the fuse block is not the same thing.
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digitalepiphany
1/2 ton status
Originally, this truck had a 305 and a 700R4. It now has a 400 and a 4L60. I have no idea about any of the factory wiring, speed control, or vacuum switch.
I might just take it to a local transmission shop to have it done right.
I might just take it to a local transmission shop to have it done right.
700R4 and 4L60 are one in the same---the 460LE is electronically controlled,the 4l60 and 700R4 use a throttle valve cable to control shifting..
I think your truck should have had all the wiring already there?..
I think your truck should have had all the wiring already there?..
Found it.
http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/connector-terminal-kit-ato-fuse-box
Now this kit is only to tap into the fuse box. As for an in-line fuse holder that big enough to take a circuit breaker, there isn't any that I know. Does it have to be sealed?
http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/connector-terminal-kit-ato-fuse-box
Now this kit is only to tap into the fuse box. As for an in-line fuse holder that big enough to take a circuit breaker, there isn't any that I know. Does it have to be sealed?
I still think you're looking at improving a hack instead of making things right. Maybe you can provide more information. What transmission was stock in the vehicle? Why did your tranny guy do any wiring outside the transmission case? Wasn't there tranny wiring from the factory? Was anything else added to the setup like a speed control or a vacuum switch when this tranny was put in?
You want the brake pedal circuit in place at minimum. Having something tapped right into the fuse block implies all that has been bypassed. Ideally you will have the factory circuit including the vac switch (near the brake booster), the 4WD relay (under dash) and the brake switch (near brake pedal, obviously). It sounds like your tranny guy was too lazy to figure this out or the 700 was swapped in place of something else. There are threads here laying all this out if you search.
Here's the vac switch:
The wiring is something like this:
Obviously replacing all of that with a single wire to the fuse block is not the same thing.
^This. If you were set up for a 700r4, you probably have a 4 wire brake switch (My 85 does). The blue wire goes to the tcc lockup. It is a constant 12V when the ignition is on, and when you press the brake it cuts power, unlocking the converter. As said, all the wiring and vacuum switch should be in place if you have a factory setup. As far as connectors, several have offered up good solutions, or you can always use an Add-A-Circuit. I think most people are a little unclear as to why you need this fused wire when the vehicle is already wired for the transmission. Might be good to find out if the factory lockup was replaced by some aftermarket setup. Good luck!
digitalepiphany
1/2 ton status
I'll just take it to a transmission shop so that I can get it set back up to factory condition.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
This makes even less sense now. You can't run a 4L60-E without the appropriate PCM or stand-alone transmission controller. Lockup is the least of your concerns as you will have only 2nd gear and reverse without a controller for the shift solenoids. Perhaps someone is just confusing the transmission names? Maybe it's not really just lockup being powered from the fuse block - maybe is a VSS module or something. Are you running a carb or EFI?
digitalepiphany
1/2 ton status
It's the updated version of the 700R4, which is the 4L60. The way it was explained to me was that the 4L60 was the 700R4 with "upgraded input shaft with more splines,and an auxillary valve body,and are supposedly much better than the early versions."
Page 2, post #18 of this thread.
The reason I mentioned that it was now a 4L60 is because that's what the transmission guy told me it was, and it's newer than my truck. It may not be an important point, but I don't know all the differences between them, so if there are any that would be relevant to my OD problem, I thought it best to mention that it's a 4L60.
Page 2, post #18 of this thread.
The reason I mentioned that it was now a 4L60 is because that's what the transmission guy told me it was, and it's newer than my truck. It may not be an important point, but I don't know all the differences between them, so if there are any that would be relevant to my OD problem, I thought it best to mention that it's a 4L60.
I guess I just forgot that the name changed from 700R-4 to 4L60 a couple years before the electronic version came in. There's little difference between a "late" 700 and an "early" 4L60. Things were changing every couple years all along. The name change was 1990-ish and the "-E" came in 1992. This was a completely new valve body, even though most of the rest was the same.
So the stuff I said about electronic controls doesn't apply.
Can you get more pics of the brake switches, transmission plug, vacuum switch, etc.?
So the stuff I said about electronic controls doesn't apply.
Can you get more pics of the brake switches, transmission plug, vacuum switch, etc.?
digitalepiphany
1/2 ton status
I don't even know where that stuff is, much less what they look like. I'll just take it by the transmission shop in the morning. I'll let you guys know what he says.
