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Cleaning Nuts Bolts Washers etc

MTBLAZER89

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Anybody got a handy tip for cleaning a large amount of hardware. I have all the stuff for my axle. Doesnt really need to be replaced, but its grimy, rusty, dirty. I also have a 3 gallon bucket of misc hardware I have been wanting to sort and organize. Lets hear your ideas!
 
Anybody got a handy tip for cleaning a large amount of hardware. I have all the stuff for my axle. Doesnt really need to be replaced, but its grimy, rusty, dirty. I also have a 3 gallon bucket of misc hardware I have been wanting to sort and organize. Lets hear your ideas!

I use a container of gasoline that has been drained from scrapped vehicle tanks.
 
Take em to scrap and buy new fasteners as needed. Use junk to build junk...use good stuff to build good stuff. Any fastener you gotta knock the rust off of and clean/wire wheel etc isn't worth using IMO.

Rene
 
Take em to scrap and buy new fasteners as needed. Use junk to build junk...use good stuff to build good stuff. Any fastener you gotta knock the rust off of and clean/wire wheel etc isn't worth using IMO.

Rene



X2!, I went and dropped about 1000 bucks on all kinds of grade hardware. I have not had to go make that last minute run to the hardware store in A LONG TIME. I have everything from 1/4 to 1/2 grade 8 hardware with some 5/8 and 3/4 too. then take the time to organize it properly, and you will be VERY happy. Old rusty crap is just that, crap. Unless its a specialty fastener then its junk.
 
I'd agree if its rusty and actually damaged, as in pitted and so on.
 
Muriatic acid is your friend. It can be found in just about every hardware store and also pool supply houses as it is commonly used for cleaning swimming pools.
 
I have a story regarding used fasteners...just to back up a rather strong statement I made earlier.

Like most of us here I have (had) a collection of old used nuts and bolts. I completed a 'build' in 2003 which included the entire drivetrain. The problem I had reared it's head about 3 months later when I happened to notice of the 4 bolts and stuff holding my T-case/tranny crossmember up, two were about to lose the nuts, one was loose and one was sorta tight.

I chalked it up to being in a hurry when I put it together...broke out the tools and cranked those bad boys back to tight. 3 months later...I'm missing one nut, lock and flat washer, the other three are loose again. I replace the missing stuff...get medievel on it tightening it up and pat myself on the back.

Another three months later I go wheeling...I'm 10 miles into the backwoods and blammo. My tranny and T-case drop about 4 or 5 inches.

I look underneath and the whole drivetrain is being held up by the motor mounts and the exhaust sytem. Not a single crossmember bolt or nut in sight. My good friend I was wheeling with starts walking my back trail and over about a one mile section he found all but one washer...so we put it all back together and carried on.

I replaced all the hardware with new fasteners when I got home, same size, same washer configuration, everything...just brandy new and good quality. I drove for two years with the new stuff and it never loosened up at all.

So, there's the story behind my comments earlier.

Rene
 
on critical bolts that see a lot of stretch and high torque values it is worth it to replace it because when they are torqued down over and over they grow longer so they can not hold the torque as well over time. For other bolts that are not critical like fender washers, etc try taking them to a machine shop and have them put them in there de rust tank they will look brand new, that or the battery charger trick or acid at home also work just be careful
 
Oh I agree with the comments above completely. I always replace bolts that require integrity in the drivetrain etc. I am talking like diff cover bolts and stuff like that. I have tons of bolts that are really just dirty with light surface rust. Just trying to figure out tips for cleaning.

I like to boil stuff in Simple Green in a crock pot. Gets it really clean.

Rene I have had the same thing happen on my T-case crossmember. Replaced with all new bolts and pinch nuts and never had another problem.
 
I bought a fry strainer for a couple bucks (just a wire basket on a handle), and spray 'em with brake cleaner while shaking them around. It works great and only takes a few seconds. Hit 'em with an air compressor and they're dry in another couple seconds.
 
for removing grime and grease, i use a 5-gallon bucket with enough water to cover the fasteners and dump in some oxyclean. a few hours later, there's gross stuff floating in the water and the thicker gunk can easily be removed with a toothbrush or inside-out sock. brake cleaner is great stuff, too.
 
The dishwasher on the pot scrubbing cycle with extra Cascade added works great. There is some danger in using dishwashes. You may be hit by flying parts if the wife finds out.
 
I have heard of ( but never tried ) greasy nasty parts can be put inside of a plastic garbage bag along with a one or two cup container of ammonia
( not poured in, just set inside the bag ) for 24 hrs and it supposibly loosens up all the grease and grime..

anyone ever heard or tried it ??????
 
i have a 5 gal bucket cut down @ 3/4 height, and a fry basket that i put parts in, i have a small motor w/ offset weighted flywheel that vibrates the bucket pretty hard, its like a large jewelry cleaner.

I've used diesel, var-sol, and simple green in the bucket, prolly any type of solvent would work, no gas tho or anything explosive.

i got the idea of the motor from a friend who has 1 built that he puts sand from his blast cabinet thru it and the vibrating motor shakes the sand thru a screen, so he can reuse it again in his blast cabinet!

if its really caked on grease i will put it in an old crock-pot turned up on high, for 15 min. before i put it in my vibrating bucket.

i don't have a grand to spend on new hardware, so i will reuse old hardware unless its pitted or worn, or locknut's, they get replaced b/c they loose their locking properties after being used, and any thing that is stretch to yield type bolt(i think thats what they are called) like u-bolts, they get new hardware also.

but the homemade cleaner works wonders, really cruddy stuff gets crock-pot then the bucket and it works really well! i can set it cleaning small parts, while i go do something else!
 
No one uses the battery charger an baking soda in a bucket of water method?
There was a pretty big thread on it,which I cant find... :rolleyes:
 
I saw them do that on the Powerblock, I think Trucks. My luck I would electrocute myself :doah:
 
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