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Clifford Project - '88 Cummins CrewCab

Got the injection pump in this weekend. Spent the afternoon yesterday pulling it. It took 3 or 4 hours, but a lot of that time was wasted. First things first, I went to put the barring tool in (**** just remembered I never put the plug back in and it was sitting on the leaf spring :doah:) and it would not go in far enough to engage the flywheel. Stuck my finger in the hole and the damn bellhousing that came with this tranny is cast in the way of the barring tool. Ending up using the alternator to turn the motor over.

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I spent at least a half hour trying to find TDC with the pin. Never could get it to go into anything. Finally I checked the angle of the pump on the truck, matched the new pump to that, and checked the angle of the key in the shaft. I then eyeballed where the key should be on the truck, locked the pump down, pulled it, and prayed that it was close. I sure am glad that I bought that special wrench. It made what I'm sure is a nightmare without it easy. The bottom nut on the pump came almost all the way off and then pulled the stud out with it. So I cleaned up all three this morning.

New pump keyway position
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Old pump keyway position.
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Backside of the timing case where the pump bolts to.
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This morning I installed the gov spring, swapped the fuel pin from the old pump, and matched up all the screw settings. Checked where the shaft key was and it was as close as I could have gotten it by eye. Went to slide the pump on and it went right in. Everything else went right back together and I was done within the hour.

Turned the key on to bleed the system with the in-tank pump and discovered the passenger side pump is dead. Switched tanks and bled out up to the filter, then the return line on the pump. I left all the injector lines loose at the injector. Cranked the motor a few times for 20-30 seconds and there was diesel everywhere. Tightened them all up and it fired up as fast as I could hit the key. Loosened and tightened each one to make sure they were bled and none of them needed any more bleeding.

HOLY FOCK is this thing quick now. The spring is great and made it much more drivable. I don't know what made such a difference, but this is a different truck. I guess the old pump was just that worn out and having the rebuilt one did it. The full fuel screw is at the stock spot. All that is done is the spring and fuel pin. I bumped the timing as much as I could but could only get a little over a 1/16". It smokes a lot more than it used to, so much that I may have to turn the AFC down a little. I need to play with the tuning a bit yet, and I'll probably turn the fuel up a little. I spent an hour this afternoon just running around, went to the car wash and cleaned undercarriage, underhood, and the outside. It sure feels good to be driving it again. :woot:

Next is to finish the exhaust, get the front drive shaft built, and mount the intercooler. First though I need to plug this hole.
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Awesome :bow:, glad to see it went "semi smooth" :D. I always forget how much physically smaller the vp's are compared to the p pumps.
I've been meaning to ask, how do you like, the gearing /tire size/ 5 speed combo ? I've got 4.10's in my Blazer and plan on 38's with the 12v and nv4500, so your combo is pretty similar.
 
Turned the key on to bleed the system with the in-tank pump and discovered the passenger side pump is dead. Switched tanks and bled out up to the filter, then the return line on the pump.

Sounds like you are using the stock in tank electric fuel pumps? When I did my conversion that is what I planned to use too(with a regulator to bring pressure down to 5-7psi), However I read over at 4btswaps that the in tank pumps will not hold up to diesel fuel. At first I thought BS, but then I did some research and found that gm did not use in the tank pumps on 6.2 diesel OE installs. Instead they had a frame mounted electric pump.
On my repower I pulled the tanks and replaced the pumps with a draw staw and utilized the block mounted Cummins lift pump. This is the recommended way over at 4btswaps. I would hate to see you spend a bunch of money replacing pumps prone to future habitual failure.
JLT
PS I can get you detail on the pump removal or at least get you a link over to the 4btswaps that outlines how it is done.
 
^Good to know. I've already had them out once to clean out the tanks and both were working then. I've got half a dozen carb units I can swap in. When I get around to it, I'll pull the in tank pumps and do a FASS unit w/ pump on the frame.

Fired right up this morning in the cold. Drove a mile to the corner store, come back out and it won't fire. Tries to with ether but dies right away....no fuel. No tools in the truck, wife won't answer her phone, so I woke the neighbor up to bring me a 17mm wrench. Popped the injector lines loose, cranked, tightened them back up and it fired right up. It's sucking air from somewhere, but didn't do it the half dozen times I shut it down and started it yesterday. Probably the cold shrunk something that isn't quite tight enough. Time to go over all the fittings again.
 
Awesome :bow:, glad to see it went "semi smooth" :D. I always forget how much physically smaller the vp's are compared to the p pumps.
I've been meaning to ask, how do you like, the gearing /tire size/ 5 speed combo ? I've got 4.10's in my Blazer and plan on 38's with the 12v and nv4500, so your combo is pretty similar.

FWIW mine is a 12V/Getrag (basically same ratios as the 4500) w/4.10's and 37's and I think it's perfect. Initially I thought I'd want to switch to 3.73's (the highest you can gear a D60/14 bolt combo) but I'm not considering that any more.
 
FWIW mine is a 12V/Getrag (basically same ratios as the 4500) w/4.10's and 37's and I think it's perfect. Initially I thought I'd want to switch to 3.73's (the highest you can gear a D60/14 bolt combo) but I'm not considering that any more.

Cool ! I did the math and it was coming out really similar to my old 00 Ram that had 3.55's and 285/75's (32.8"). Granted the K5 should be a decent amount lighter and with a little extra power :whistle: :D
 
Agreed, I had 3.55s and 35s with my 24v and nv4500. That was sweet. Well lots of horsepower too.

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Had the truck bleed down again on me on the way home. Bled it out at the injectors again and it started, but started rough. Then it was falling on it's face when I'd get on it. Got home and the same thing all over again. Rechecked tightness on all the line sconnections, which some needed. Finally figured out that it was on the passenger tank, which is the one with the dead pump. Switched it over, bled it once again, and it's been fine since. At least it's only got about a 1/4 tank in it. I am getting good at bleeding it out too.

So it looks like the intercooler needs to come sooner than later. It hit ~1340* before I got out of it in 4th gear.

So I was peaking at these boost numbers before
2nd gear - 7psi
3rd - 18
4th - 29

Now I'm getting -
2nd gear - 18
3rd - 27
4th - 35

Once it hits peak boost it starts falling off. Feels like it's running out of boost before rpm's. Do I need bigger turbo? more fuel? I know that 35psi is max for this turbo. And if I turn the fuel up, that will increase boost correct? Will turning up fuel raise or lower EGT's? Catch 22?

What's a trick to get the pump to turn more to get more timing?
 
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Advance the cam gear 1 tooth for more timing advance. I would not do that before measureing what current timing is. Do you know what it is set at? VE pumps have dynamic timing advance. P-pumps do not, they are static timing. No advance. But base timing set too far advanced in the over 20* btdc range will give you hard starting issues as well.

On a mechanical pump you will only need to crack #1 injector to prime fuel to start the engine. The rest of the lines will self purge. The fuel return check valve can give you hard start issues too. If the spring is weak or broken, or the copper washers are not sealing.




Is the wastegate disabled? Do that first. Is there an intercooler in there now, or is this a non-ic engine?



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Also note: The return line is as susceptible as the supply line for getting air in the system. Not sure exactly how or why ( I could speculate but that would go on for days) but it does. I ran into this issue on multiple occasions during my conversion. You need to make sure the return line has no air leaks from the injectors/pump all the way to where it returns to the tank. I must also be at least as deep in the tank as the pickup. It is also prefferred to keep it separated from the pickup, that way if the return does push a air bubble back to the tank the pickup won't pull it back to the pump. The fact that it pulled air while running and not sitting sounds just like mine did when I had a return issue. I would ditch the tank pumps and get your in tank pickup/returns set up as discusssed over at 4btswaps. I did it that way (finally) and have since had no issues. Though I have not used the passenger side tank since I first had it running, hasn't been a need since my fuel economy is so much better.
Good Luck.
JLT
 
As far as timing goes, it's just a 1/16" over TDC. Not even to the 1/8" everyone says to go to. I know that would helps with EGT's too. I just could not get it to turn any more. I don't want to skip a tooth just yet.

As far as the fuel system pulling air, I'm confident that I got it last night. There was a couple lines that took some tightening down at the pump and the supply line too. Pretty sure it's that dead pump in the passenger tank. Running off the driver tank, everything seems to be fine.

No wastegate. I don't think it's a boost leak or anything. I'm thinking the turbo may be too small. Or I'm just running out of fuel at that point. :dunno:

This is a non-IC motor, but I have a powerstroke intercooler to put on it, just haven't got it in yet. Again, I know this will help with EGT's.
 
Everything I have seen the non-IC engines have the bigger injectors. Yep did the 3200 spring. Before it would run out of RPM's, now it feels like it runs out of boost. I'm getting awesome numbers that I don't see other people getting though. I don't think anything is wrong, just trying to figure the next steps.
 
Fabjunkie, You are correct about the injectors as far as fuel delivery is concerned. they are larger and have a slightly different spray angle than Intercooled injectors. Rumor has is they will support nearly 300hp. The intercooled versions will not support that much HP without an injector upgrade. You should have plenty of fuel to play with, so I would focus on the turbo/exhaust/timing if I were you. I think one of the highest rate upgrades is for a wastegated turbo put on by the factory in the '03/'04 trucks. Right before they went to variable geometry turbos, I think it is a HE351CW model. Those can be had used for about $300-350.
I am not speeking from experience here though, I have an almost stock intercooled engine with the 3200 spring. Hind sight I kinda wish it were a non IC engine so I was looking at a $450 dolllar injecto upgrade some day.
JLT
 
Ah yes. I got that backwards. I was actually leading on to size not flow. You need bushings to use IC inj in a Non ic head. So, if you come across a set of aftermarket injectors. And they're 7mm bodies, you cannot use them in your head without bushings. Non ic inj are 9mm bodies.

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This is correct i ran into that problem with my 90, iirc the adpaters were less than 15 bucks but still a pain.
 

Sweet :bow:

Did you see the thread a while back about the company that can reproduce factory appearing emblems but however you want them.? When I get to that point I'm having the K5BLAZER emblems remade with the Cummins C in front of the K , CK5 BLAZER , sort of appropriate I think :D
 

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