jiminycricket and I clocked my NP208 this weekend. I wanted to post up some pics and info because I only clocked it to the first position. I haven't seen much info on that, so I hope this helps others out. I purchased the clocking ring from DIY4x. They got it to me quicker than I expected, so I was definitely happy about that. I measured from the floor to the flat part of the output flange and it was 19.75". Before picture: Clocking to the first position gained 2". After picture: I don't have any body lift. Even going to the first position we had to massage the floor. Where the tunnel ends on the passenger side we had to pound it over more, about 2". Basically we beat the floor in to the first captive nut for the passenger seat. I have a TH400/NP208 combo. The adapter is what I would term "tall" and uses the older style C shaped tranny mounts. Clocking it up 2" put the lowest point above the bottom of my crossmember about 1/2" to 1" at the most. All this allowed me to ditch the factory skid plate. I made a new one that is flatter and beefier: jiminy admiring my fabricating prowess. Concerning the front driveshaft: I'm only running 2.5" lift. All I had to do was grind the stops off of the double cardon junk. Before grinding I had a good deal less than 1/8" clearance on the stop that is on the shaft itself. In the future I will clock the t-case all the way up. However when I do that I'll have to do a lot more clearancing in the floor; either cut or body lift, probably a combination of both. I'll also need to get a better high angle front driveshaft. I will also need to come up with a different way to do the cross member/tranny mounts so that I can utilize the clearance it will give me. I wasn't ready to do all that work yet, so that's why I only did one position. I think it was a pretty good gain for a simple day's work.