Clocking my 208 with a diy4x ring

[Stomis]

I just ordered a clocking ring from Kert. After ordering it I noticed that he said the middle adjustment has been removed for added strength. This concerns me because my truck has no body lift and I'm definatly not clocking it all the way flat.

My question is to Kert or anyone whos installed his ring. I take it theres two options on the ring since the "middle" one has been removed. So its either mild or wild? How much is the first setting going to lift my tcase? Pictures would be great thanks.

 

[RGV72BLAZER]

PM projectfreedom, he did the DIY clocking ring on his Blazer

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

im also interested in the same question

 

[Stomis]

I just talked to Kert about this. I've decided to go with the mildest clock setting just cause I'm not modifying it balls to the wall. I should still be able to fit my true duals with a flex pipe and it clocked too...

 

[jonathon]

Good info.. next year when I SYE my 241 I want to clock it up also.. but I'll be running ORD's 1" body lift and new body mounts too. The 241 and 208 both hang wayyyyy low

 

[Stomis]

I believe the numbers kurt told me were that the highest setting pulls the center of the yoke up 5inches, the mid setting (which they offer but you must specify) is something like 4ish and the lowest one is like 3.5 higher than stock.

 

[jamber2541]

when are you planning on doing this, please post some pics when you do.

 

[Stomis]

when are you planning on doing this, please post some pics when you do.

All right I'm gonna try to really burn it into my head to take pics. Maybe I'll do it with my bud who has a good camera.

 

[jamber2541]

another question, are you going to use the same crossmember?

 

[mikey_d05]

Stomis - This is the DIY4X clocking ring on the "wild" setting.

For reference, it's a 1989 K5 frame with a Caddy motor that had been pushed way back.

 

[big dan]

I have also considered kert's clocking ring for my 208 but I have a quick question for those that have done it. you all know of the support bar that bolts to the side of the transfercase and then runs up to the bell housing right?

any suggestions on relocating this to a higher bolt on the bellhousing or other modifaction to support the output of the transfer case once it is clocked?

this is the one issue that keeps me from buying the clocking ring and if I can find a way to add support to the output of the transfercase then I will order one. thanks.

 

[mikey_d05]

I was about to say that mine bolted up to a different bolt afterwards, and then I remembered that I went to a BOP pattern at the same time.

I don't know how well or if it would clear your floor, but could you not just get a little creative with heat and bend it to where you need it?

 

[Hossbaby50]

I did away with the support strut on my 208 when I clocked it. I did the wild setting and I got it to fit no cutting, just lots of bashing the floorpan. Cutting is probably the better option but I didn't feel like messing with it and I needed to get it done ASAP. Clocking full height requires driveshaft mods, the mild setting may or may not. I had to lengthen mine about 2" and grind the stop tabs out of the CV to get it to work.

Search my name and pics of the clocking and skidplate I built will come up probably. My true duals still fit even clocked all the way up but there is not alot of room for them.

Harley

 

[big dan]

I don't know how well or if it would clear your floor, but could you not just get a little creative with heat and bend it to where you need it?

I never even thought about heating it and bending it

I thought about building a seperate brace that would bolt to either the crossmember or frame, like on my dads truck with an np205 it just has a piece of what looks like angle iron that bolts to the side of the transfercase and then has a rubber bushing where it bolts to the frame but I think if I do that frame flex could still damage the case or adapter. bending it sounds like the ticket though

 

[mikey_d05]

I have a Ford NP205 sitting around that used the same sort of deal in the factory application. It would require some fab work, but wouldn't be that hard to replicate with a bushing and sleeve. In the interest of not cracking things though I would probably stick to running the rod back to the bell.

 

[Hossbaby50]

The shifter linkage will probably need to be modified also. Mine had to be lengthened and could probably use a bend to help keep it from popping out of gear which happens from time to time in low range.

Harley

 

[xtrmjoe]

I have ditched the side bar and have not had any issues without it.
Though I am looking in to fabing something up.
I had no issue with my shifter other than needing to readjust.

 

[jamber2541]

any updates??

 

[wayne]

Clock it flat and don't look back. I think it was one of the best mods I did to my truck. It's a little work and you need to figure out a front driveshaft but in the end it's worth it.