I just saw a pirate thread with HAD saying you'll have to do flanges if itso over 30 degrees with 1410. Hmm. Maybe that's if I went totally flay. K85 clocked his 241 flat...need to look at that.
Sorry, I'm a little late to the conversation. I have been working 12s 1.5 hrs away and it makes for long days with the commute.
The u-joint angles at the pinion yoke and the t-case yoke will be different. If you are road driving this vehicle with 52s up front, with the proper amount of caster and stock rotation Cs you should have the pinion pointing
slightly up towards the t-case. I think I had to get 6 degree caster shims to get to proper caster angle. If you are trailering this everywhere and aren't concerned about road manners and correct caster then you can go even higher with degree shims to lessen the angle at the pinion yoke. If you are adventurous you could also cut and rotate your inner Cs to keep correct caster and improve pinion angle at the same time.
The angle at the t-case should pretty much always be worse than the angle at the pinion yoke because your drivetrain is (should be) actually running uphill a couple degrees from your rear t-case output to your motor mounts. If you are going to run the Superflex joint like me, Tom Woods recommends only running 1 and placing at the t-case because this is where you will have the greatest angle for the reason above.
You can definitely go flanged yokes for even more operating angle out of the 1410s as HAD suggests but it does come with added cost.
In the end it's all about finding the balance for your given budget and desired performance.
I opted for the .120 wall 2" OD 1410 single joint long travel HAD shaft with a superflex joint at the t-case. The driveshaft came with two standard 1410 joints so I automatically picked up a spare for the pinion yoke. The shaft was ~$500 shipped. The 1410 superflex joint I got on sale from WFO Concepts (close to you in CA) for like $50-60 shipped. Also, if you are looking at my results and needs, it is important to note that I have a 1.25"drivetrain lift at the motor mounts for my 5.3 to clear the ORD high clearance small block engine crossmember so your t-case joint angle should be less than mine with stock height motor mounts.
If you are cool with a square tube driveshaft then you could use that saved $ to buy the HAD flanged yokes and possibly run standard 1410 joints at both ends or worse case scenario still put a 1410 superflex joint at the t-case.
Point is there is more than one way to get to where you need to be here.
Also, if you are thinking of going doubler in the future you may want to research if the 1410 208 t-case yoke is going to fit a 205 if you go 205 main case. Alternatively, you could also keep your 208 and go 241/208 instead of 241/205. You won't get the benefit of a 4 speed t-case setup like the 241/205 but your double low would now be 7.4:1 instead of 5.44:1.
Honestly, if I could do it over I would have gone 241/205 but I got a good deal on a 203/205 with triple sticks before I learned more about the 241 Ecobox and I am too far along now to change.
