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Clunking from the read end

89GMCSuburban said:
Probably...but you're still going to be "modifying" a POS carrier in the first place. I'd just get an open carrier and stab it in there. Less pain and you can actually rebuild it much later, where as a gov-loc, you're screwed. The locking is what made it goof up. Throttle, large tires and asphalt are not good for a gov-lov. An open carrier will put much less stress on the axles and carrier and should last an awful lot longer. Besides, it'll feel safer in snow.


so what you are saying is I should buy this ... http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152156&highlight=open+carrier

sorry for all of the questions. I am very new to this whole thing. :(
If I was to look locally, what would I pull one of these open-carriers from?
Or is a part that I can still get one from my local parts supplier?
 
First, you need to see how many splines your axle has. Up to 88 usually had 28 spline axles, 89 and up had 30 spline. Ask muddybuddy how many splines the carrier is for, if it's the same, pick it up!
Locally, depending on spline count again, you can pull one from either the front or rear of a K5 blazer, Suburban, pickup and whatever else a 8.5" 10 bolt came under.
Most local driveline shops could order you a carrier as well.
 
Winter Hill Gang said:
So I found a 14bsf, /w 6 lugs for 450 bucks.
If I go this route, what else will I need?
oh, and that is 450 canadian. :wink1:
You need too make sure it's the same gearing as your front axle.
 
Winter Hill Gang said:
Another question, if I went with a 14bff, and it bolts right up, other than the u-bolt and conversion-joint, the 8 lug wheels would be the only other thing to get right? could they still be 15" wheels or do I have to go 16"?
You can get 8 to 6 lug adaptors. That might even move your wheels out enough that 15's will bolt up fine, but I'm not sure. Someone else should know.
 
Ok, So I ripped the cover off the diff tonite when I got home. the grease that came out was like molasses.
now, from what I had read/seen, it looks to me like the gov-loc latching device is facing out right now in the attached picture. Can anyone confirm this? Now me and muddybuddy are working out the whole carrier thing right, is it possible to point out exactly what I will be replacing in the picture below? I know I know, it's like I need a babysitter or something. please be patient.

I also attached a picture of the broken teeth I found sitting in the bottom of the diff-case. I think that is a bad sign. :(

Picture 001.jpg

View attachment Picture 005.jpg
 
This...
Picture001mod.jpg

Those teeth look small, probably the spider gears inside that thing. Jack the rear end up and spin the yoke while watching the ring and pinion gear. Make sure the R&P is NOT damaged!!!
 
that is what I thought, But I just wanted to be sure.
how hard is it to pull out and put a new one in? I'm no mechanic, but I can find my way around a shop, do you think I'll be able to handle it?
I'm gonna try and find a walkthrough on here when I get into work tomorrow. :D
 
You're gonn have to shim it up and set up the R&P for the correct mesh all over again. If you aren't that mechanically inclined, I really would take it somewhere.
 
Are you sure those pieces didn't come from the pinion gear. I've got a locked up 10b govloc in the shop right now and it destroyed the pinion gear. Half the teeth are gone and chips from the ring gear.
 
Well I've got a friend helping me who has done rear-ends before, just in case I am in over my head. ;)

I've also decided to turn this truck into a project. So you'll probably be seeing more questions from me. sorry. :crazy:
 
Gov-lock uses pieces with small teeth on them, but from the pic its pretty hard for me to tell what those are. They LOOK like they are the tops of larger (pinion?) gear teeth, but that's just a guess as a picture only tells so much.

You can rotate the carrier so you can see the toothed gear on the inside of the carrier. In your picture, the top gov-lock piece is turned by the larger toothed gear inside the carrier. My 14SF had the teeth on that piece AND some from the larger gear sheared off, and it was an open diff at that point.

Yes, the gov-lock carrier is weaker than others, but if it were made open and never locked, that strength would likely never be an issue.
 
I'm going to be jacking the ass-end up tonite hopefully and giving the tires a spin so I can inspect the ring & pinion for broken teeth. I'm hoping they are from the carrier, as I will hopefully have a new open-carrier coming in 2 weeks or so.
 
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