CK5
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Clutch question
- Thread starter 84 K5 4x4
- Start date
I'd rather hydrolic so I can actually run a full 3in body lift without it binding.
Confedneck79K30
3/4 ton status
id rather run manual, its simpler, less parts to fail and a good reason NOT to run a body lift lol...
my 86 was hydro when i had it, my 79 is manual and i plan to leave it that way
my 86 was hydro when i had it, my 79 is manual and i plan to leave it that way
mines manual but Ive heard a lot of good things about hydraulic. I know a few guys running manual linkage and have said it binds when they flex hard and they cant stop. Im getting a hydro setup for free so Im gonna stick it on and see how it works. If I dont like it then Ill swap back.
MuddinManny
Banned
big dan said:
Hey big dan,
Coming from Toyota Land, hydraulic clutches were all they ran. They are the snizzle bo-snizzle when it comes to wheelin. So smooth it's like no effort at all and reliable all the day long. Route the plumbing correctly and you'll never have an issue other than the clutch slave cylinder going out on ya!
I'd like to take my 83 K10 and convert, just gotta find out how.
Manny
The clutch master cylinder can go out as well, in fact, I replaced the clutch master cylinder on a '86 Land Cruiser this last weekend. I like the manual linkeage because it is much simpler and has nothing to really fail.MuddinManny said:
Any binding issues are likely due to bad body bushings. I noticed my clutch not working quite right when the truck was flexed out and replaced my 25 year old rotten rubber bushings with poly ones and the problem is completely fixed
MuddinManny
Banned
38377k5 said:The clutch master cylinder can go out as well, in fact, I replaced the clutch master cylinder on a '86 Land Cruiser this last weekend. I like the manual linkeage because it is much simpler and has nothing to really fail.
Any binding issues are likely due to bad body bushings. I noticed my clutch not working quite right when the truck was flexed out and replaced my 25 year old rotten rubber bushings with poly ones and the problem is completely fixed
Aaaahhhhhhhh!
You are so right. I am a fan of your ID... My 383 stroker is only days away! 500 HP and 425 ft/lbs torque. Lemme at the MUD, lemme at it! Yeah, the clutch master cylinder can go out but it's not usual and with proper maintenance of checking fluids and bleeding the system once a year, you're good to go. Thanks for reminding me! I forgot about that one!
Manny
I run manual linkgage. I had a little trouble at first with the linkage coming out (literally falling out of the cup on the throwout fork) in extreme flexed out situaitons, but then I added a retrun spring to keep the throwout fork tight against the Z-bar lever, and ever since then, no worries..
MattK
1/2 ton status
i like my manual setup. it's pretty simple and probably easier to fix on the trail
walla2k5
1/2 ton status
MattK said:
Ditto on this.
I don't crawl rocks,I run over them(not)
Seriously though,no problems here with the manual linkage.
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MuddinManny said:Aaaahhhhhhhh!
Manny
Im sure youll love it!
i have manual - don't wish i had hydro either. once you get the linkage tuned right, you'll be fine.
I have the manual version, and have never had any problem with it.
That said, I think the hydraulic version, the one that comes on our trucks, with external slave cylinder, is a good setup as well. I have that setup on my C10, no troubles there either. Well, the line was pretty rusty, so I replaced it with stalnless when I replaced all the brake and fuel lines with stainless, a preventive measure.
The internal slave cylinder setups (not found from factory on any of our trucks, they started with the new C/K trucks ) suck doonkey balls.. I have that setup in my '97 K2500, horrible setup. That cyilnder blows out all the time and you have to tear the tranny/transfer/torsion bars out to get to it. I replaced my cluitch at 110k, new slave cylinder of course, 40k later, slave cylinder blows out. Take it out, all new clutch and cylinder again (since the blowout ruins the clutch as well by leaking brake fluid all over it) This time instead of the slave that come with the centerforce version, I went to GM and got a GM part. Same damn thing that was in the box with centerforce, a Luk slave. Blows out again after 50k. Replace it all again.
Horrible setup, where you have to remove the tranmissoin/transfercase/torsion bars to get the clutch and slave cylinder out.
That said, I think the hydraulic version, the one that comes on our trucks, with external slave cylinder, is a good setup as well. I have that setup on my C10, no troubles there either. Well, the line was pretty rusty, so I replaced it with stalnless when I replaced all the brake and fuel lines with stainless, a preventive measure.
The internal slave cylinder setups (not found from factory on any of our trucks, they started with the new C/K trucks ) suck doonkey balls.. I have that setup in my '97 K2500, horrible setup. That cyilnder blows out all the time and you have to tear the tranny/transfer/torsion bars out to get to it. I replaced my cluitch at 110k, new slave cylinder of course, 40k later, slave cylinder blows out. Take it out, all new clutch and cylinder again (since the blowout ruins the clutch as well by leaking brake fluid all over it) This time instead of the slave that come with the centerforce version, I went to GM and got a GM part. Same damn thing that was in the box with centerforce, a Luk slave. Blows out again after 50k. Replace it all again.
Horrible setup, where you have to remove the tranmissoin/transfercase/torsion bars to get the clutch and slave cylinder out.
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
leg effort is greater with the manual version but not bad with a stock clutch. If you go with an aftermarket/upgraded clutch your Left leg is gonna get bigger with a manual. Not many people seem to go to a heavier 3 finger pressure plate anymore, most just go to a centerforce so I don't know if this a concern. Mine was definitely stiffer when I put a ram clutch in it
The Centerforce I use in mine have lighter leg pressure than stock. Seems just about the same as my stock C10 with the hydro setup. The stock clutch in the 73, which was a 3 finger design, was much heavier pedal. When I first put the centerforce in, I thought I had done something wrong, the pedal was so much lighter.
MattK
1/2 ton status
im running the luk pro gold 12" and the clutch effort is more than say, my supra lol, but after a day of wheeling i dont notice my leg being worn out.
Anybody that complains about the leg effort in a mechanical linkage clutch set-up, versus a hydraulic one, must be a pu-wuss. I've been driving these trucks for 20 years, and neither leg is bigger than the other one (both pretty skinny, actually). I did convert mine to hydraulic, because it does allow me better control, with less effort, on the rocks. After being in a few sphincter tightening manuevers, with my legs shaking, it's nice to have smoother control with hydraulics.
word. it's not that tough to depress the clutch pedal.madmike said:
