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Colorado Smog 3rd Fail... what to do next?

WireJack

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I am trying to get my 81' Chevy Blazer k5 to pass Colorado Smog and it has failed for the 3rd time. I have already taken it to a mechanic and dropped $500 on it and now i have an appointment with the "Emissions Technical Center" to see what they think (it's free, so what the hell).

So now I am wondering:

1: If I fail again, what are my options? Does Colorado have any kind of "Off-road only" license I could get? I mean, I drive the thing like once a month! So it's not like I am going to be a major problem.

2: I have heard and looked up those 5 year plates... if I actually get it to pass and I get one of those, from everything I have read it still appears that I have to smog it at least every 5 years. Does anyone know the truth behind this?

3. If the engine really is shot, what kind of engine should I get for an off road camping truck that's not a trailer-queen and has to be able to get me into the backwoods camping spots that I want to go to? I have a 350 v8 5.7 liter with automatic transmission now but I am open to ideas of manual trans and other size engines. If I go through with it, it will be a brand new crate engine so if you have a brand preference, please let me know also.

4. Are there any other adjustments I should make to it? Larger tires? Different gear ratio?

... I know, I wondered away from the smog question... but I feel pretty lost with this thing sometimes.

Thanks,
Ken

My Rig:
1981 Chevy Blazer K5
350 v8 5.7 liter
Automatic Trans
6" lift
33" tires
4.3 gear ratio
 
What is it failing on? Does it use oil? Did you change the oil and have it warmed up before you went to the smog spot?

Need some more info before we can give any advice.

Dik
 
I have been spoiled by living in Elbert County since we dont have any smog restrictions. Do a search over in the Pacific Region forums, the CA guys are full of tips and tricks for passing smog.
 
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the reason the mechanic thought the engine was toast was that the spark plugs were oil fouled. I changed the plugs just before going in this last time. I haven't noticed any change in the oil levels... but no, I didn't chance the oil before going.
 
Without knowing what you need for performance (or budget)-- GM makes some nice new crate motors starting about $1500 for a 250hp 5.7. I build pretty much a clone of the ZZ4 crate motor and didn't save too much. A good rebuild can get costly. The stock 81 motor was rated at 165hp so it wouldn't take much to see an improvment.
 
Can you post your emssions report so we can see what failed?


Would be a lot better to get the problem fixed then to fight the county for a wavier every year.
 
I'm not sure of your current living conditions but if you own more than two acres of land you can get farm plates that exempt you from smog tests. I run those on my truck and just use my parents house as my permanent address with the DMV. They own a very small horse ranch in Peyton.
 
I'm not sure of your current living conditions but if you own more than two acres of land you can get farm plates that exempt you from smog tests. I run those on my truck and just use my parents house as my permanent address with the DMV. They own a very small horse ranch in Peyton.
Tom, you cheater!:DOK, I'm just jealous, you got me.
 
I was going through the same thing in 2006.

Sorry I can't suggest you take my route (I had a friend on the inside who orchestrated a very elaborate scheme to get me the coveted "PASS" on the printout)

BUT,

I do know that with my 5 year collectors plates, that ONE smog test is the only one I will ever have to do (assuming that I pay the taxes on time at the end of the 5 years, in 2011, 2016, etc). The next time my truck will need another smog test will only come if it is sold - the new owner gets the test.

Good luck! I know how much your situation sucks!
 
I'd post a report of why it failed as well. None of my current cars have any problem passing smog, but when I was a teenager I had plenty of problems.

If your 81 is failing because of excessive emissions (and not just a missing hose or some technical problem) you're probably also getting really crappy mileage. With gas as expensive as it is, you'd probably be money ahead to fix it if you plan on keeping the truck a long time.

I can say in CA, the motor has to be pretty far out of tune or just plain junk to really fail the emissions portion of the test. A well running motor typically passes with tons of margin. You do have the disadvantage of having an early 80's GM and well... those were tough times for GM in the reliability dept.
 
Ok. Here are the three smog reports. The small images are the details, you can find the full page reports by clicking on the images, or go to the link:
http://gearhead.wireheadinc.com/blazer_reports.php

05-30-2008


Things that changed: went on vacation (truck was parked) and played with the vacume to try to fix it myself.

07-03-2008


Since things got worse, this is when I went to the mechanic. It sounds better, but obviously it is doing worse.

07-11-2008



As soon as it passes, I hope to either register it as a 5-year plate or go the farm route. As of now, I do not have the land, but when I buy a house this next year, i hope to get 2+ acres... I didn't realize that was all it took to be considered a farm. Thats awesome.

Thanks Peteasauras for the engine recommendations, if I do have to go that route, it will be very useful information. If nothing else works though, I am now also considering tearing it down and having the block machined... at least that way I will learn more about the engine... that is why I got the vehicle after all.

Thanks for the feed back!
Ken
 
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If I'm reading correctly, your emissions get worse each time you have it tested... :confused:

What did the $500 mechanic do??
 
Jon, You are reading correctly. Believe it or not, the truck actually runs a lot better now, even if the smog is worse. He fixed a lot of my vacuum and carb issues... I was very pissed off that I had to spend that much only to not pass again...

Specifically, the auto shop charged me $90 to look at it for failing air, then $297 for labor of the vacuum leaks and carb work I asked of them (I had no idea it would be that much until after the fact). "R&R customer’s carb fixed, some vac leaks, modified customers carb to work". Then they put "Recommended Repairs: Needs emission components repaired, plugs, engine wore out, pumps oil onto plugs, has very high HC, needs carb OH etc."
 
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What did the $500 mechanic do??

Yea, the HC levels quadrupled at idle from the first test to the second. You should ask for a refund.

It isn't possible to know what's causing the problem, it's now pretty bad at both idle and at speed. I assume you've checked the timing, EGR, and all the other normal stuff?

I was able to pass one time by just retarding the timing more than normal (but still within the legal range) and adding a bottle of some kind of gas treatment that's supposed to help smog tests. I don't know if it was the timing adjustments or the gas treatment, but I did pass the next test.

It sounds like your running too rich, burning some oil, or something else is way out of whack. It would be good to try checking the timing, changing the oil to something a little thicker like 20-50, replacing the gas with higher octane premium, and some kind of gas treatment. Then have it retested and see how it does. That might get you by long enough to replace the motor.
 
Thanks Brian,

I changed my above post to point out that I visited the mechanic between the 2nd and 3rd smog tests...

I will go over the timing and EGR again, and try doing those other things you said (oil, gas, and treatment). I am going to wait on the retest until next Friday, only day I have time and it is after the free State inspection.
 
Ok, back to the problem at hand. Try disconnecting the vacuum advance, that should clear up the HC at 2500, leave the hose open for a vacuum leak to lower the CO at 2500. For idle turn the idle mixture screws in until the idle speed just starts to drop and that should drop the idle CO down and hopefully the HC.

Try these few simple things, get it retested and report back with your results. I don't think the motor is the problem, if it were the idle HCs would be through the roof. Don't give up or blow up with the shop, they obviously fixed a bunch of stuff that made it run better.


These few items will make a difference, if you need an explanation as to why let me know.
 
It appears that the shop mentioned:

"Recommended Repairs: Needs emission components repaired, plugs, engine wore out, pumps oil onto plugs, has very high HC, needs carb OH etc."

Carb needs to be rebuilt...

Although the part about the motor blowing oil onto the plugs is cause for concern. That's definitely NOT carb related. What about the compression? Have you checked it?
 

1: If I fail again, what are my options? Does Colorado have any kind of "Off-road only" license I could get? I mean, I drive the thing like once a month! So it's not like I am going to be a major problem.

You can register it as an OHV and avoid emissions, the downside is that it costs the same as registering the vehicle for the street and you can't get the vehicle registered for the street ever again (or so I'm told).

2: I have heard and looked up those 5 year plates... if I actually get it to pass and I get one of those, from everything I have read it still appears that I have to smog it at least every 5 years. Does anyone know the truth behind this?

I've had collector's plates since '02 and that's the last time my truck had to pass emissions. You register the truck for 5 years at a time and as long as you keep your registration current you don't have to get an emissions test ever again. The vehicle has to be at least 25 years old too (which obviously yours is).


3. If the engine really is shot, what kind of engine should I get for an off road camping truck that's not a trailer-queen and has to be able to get me into the backwoods camping spots that I want to go to? I have a 350 v8 5.7 liter with automatic transmission now but I am open to ideas of manual trans and other size engines. If I go through with it, it will be a brand new crate engine so if you have a brand preference, please let me know also.

First you need to figure out where the oil is coming from; either valve seals or the engine is worn out and oil is getting past the rings. A compression test will show if the rings are done for.


4. Are there any other adjustments I should make to it? Larger tires? Different gear ratio?

Don't mess with that stuff.



Your carburetor may need to be rebuilt, fairly cheap and easy. Have you checked the plugs since you replaced them? Shoot me a PM if you need help with this stuff, I'm probably pretty close to you.
 
Ok, so I just got back from the State of Colorado Emissions Technical Center and they came up with the following. As you can see, I passed on their machines. I didn't change a thing in my truck since last time, they recomended I get a weaker acceleratior return spring since it is hard to hold stable during the test, but aside from that I should be good to get retested. I don't know why I failed so badly last time...

7-16-2008 - Unofficial Vehicle Inspection Report
(I still need to go to a test center and get tested).


"AIR" Program Vehicle Evaluation:


Ok. Here are the three smog reports. The small images are the details, you can find the full page reports by clicking on the images, or go to the link:
http://gearhead.wireheadinc.com/blazer_reports.php

05-30-2008


Things that changed: went on vacation (truck was parked) and played with the vacume to try to fix it myself.

07-03-2008


Since things got worse, this is when I went to the mechanic. It sounds better, but obviously it is doing worse.

07-11-2008



As soon as it passes, I hope to either register it as a 5-year plate or go the farm route. As of now, I do not have the land, but when I buy a house this next year, i hope to get 2+ acres... I didn't realize that was all it took to be considered a farm. Thats awesome.

Thanks Peteasauras for the engine recommendations, if I do have to go that route, it will be very useful information. If nothing else works though, I am now also considering tearing it down and having the block machined... at least that way I will learn more about the engine... that is why I got the vehicle after all.

Thanks for the feed back!
Ken
 
Emissions passed!

Hey Everyone,

Thanks for the advice and help. After the state facility told me there was basically nothing wrong, I went to a local emission test station (NOT Air Care Colorado again) and that guy knew to run my truck at only 2300-2400 RPM and was able to pass it. He said that when it runs at 2500+ RPM, like the Air Care Colorado guys do, it will fail every time.

He also said that the 5-year historic plates will no longer get you out of future emissions... but when I picked them up at the registration office, the lady told me "and now you don't have to pass emissions again!". So I guess I will see in 5 years what happens.

So... Emissions passed, 5-year plated, no worries for a good long time!

Thanks again,
Ken
:bow:
 

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