wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Oh I meant price of an axle haha. I one full float for $80 and another for $100
CK5
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Confused about axles.
- Thread starter 1985 K10 Warhawk
- Start date
One other advantage of the full float is that it is very easy to service and maintain. This week I tore mine apart to install a Detroit in place of my spider gears. Very simple, very quick, and (thanks to the full-floating hubs), I didn't even have to jack up the truck or remove the wheels. I simply slid the axle shafts out while leaving the wheels alone. Was in and out of there in no more than an hour. Same for servicing the pinion end of things. The pinion is removed from the front, so complete axle disassembly is not required to replace the seal or bearing.
So whether you're working on the front of the axle or the back, it's just easier than most of the axles out there.
So whether you're working on the front of the axle or the back, it's just easier than most of the axles out there.
Oh yeah, I forgot...There are no C-clips in a full float axle, so it's easier to service the hubs, too. No tearing the pumpkin apart to remove the shafts. You simply unbolt the axle shafts and slide them out of the way, then the hubs are removed just like a trailer hub.
So you really win from all sides, serviceability-wise.
So you really win from all sides, serviceability-wise.
1985 K10 Warhawk
Registered Member
I think I done goofed... So, I bought a running/driving/braking Craigslist truck for $400.00 , in the snow, at night with only a phone flashlight. It's titled as a GMC 1981 Suburban 2500..?
Apparently I can't count to 14, nor was I dissuaded by the oval shape...So, now what?! Appears I have a GM 12 bolt. What should I transfer to my truck? Will this bolt in?
The front dif has manual 'superwinch' locking hubs. My truck has automatic.
I think my truck has 4 or 5 leaf springs. This looks like it has 7 ? (It's cold and my snow clothes are in the wash or I would go verify)
Here's the RPO codes
and the leafs
If nothing else, there was a set of all weather floor mats, an optima red top, a cool looking tube bumper w/ 6 lights mounted to it...And I think reasonably newish tires
Apparently I can't count to 14, nor was I dissuaded by the oval shape...So, now what?! Appears I have a GM 12 bolt. What should I transfer to my truck? Will this bolt in?
The front dif has manual 'superwinch' locking hubs. My truck has automatic.
I think my truck has 4 or 5 leaf springs. This looks like it has 7 ? (It's cold and my snow clothes are in the wash or I would go verify)
Here's the RPO codes
and the leafs
If nothing else, there was a set of all weather floor mats, an optima red top, a cool looking tube bumper w/ 6 lights mounted to it...And I think reasonably newish tires
1985 K10 Warhawk
Registered Member
Is the 12 bolt worth building for my 33's and 4' lift? I won't know the ratio's till i pull the dif cover.
What should I be replacing if it does bolt in? I assume some sorta new gaskets /gears themselves if the ratio is crap or if there are cracks/chips, maybe add a locker? The RPO codes say locking dif (But that is the front axle w/ manual locks... right?)
Also, I know it's a donor vehicle, but unless I constantly feather the gas, the engine starts sputtering as if it's low on gas and then dies. What should I check for that?
The donor seems to have way more torque then mine.
Sorry for my ignorance, I am still trying to figure this stuff out. I don't mind fixing something I might be scrapping or selling off cheap as I am trying to learn anything I can.. I wan't to be better!
What should I be replacing if it does bolt in? I assume some sorta new gaskets /gears themselves if the ratio is crap or if there are cracks/chips, maybe add a locker? The RPO codes say locking dif (But that is the front axle w/ manual locks... right?)
Also, I know it's a donor vehicle, but unless I constantly feather the gas, the engine starts sputtering as if it's low on gas and then dies. What should I check for that?
The donor seems to have way more torque then mine.
Sorry for my ignorance, I am still trying to figure this stuff out. I don't mind fixing something I might be scrapping or selling off cheap as I am trying to learn anything I can.. I wan't to be better!
33's will probably be ok, if you don't beat on it too hard.
Ok, first of all, check your counting again. I've counted the bolts 4 times now, and I can't get to 12, no matter how I try. That is a 14bsf axle, consistent with a 3/4-ton truck of that vintage. It does have 8-lugs, yes? You have the option of sourcing 6-lug shafts for it or just swapping both axles straight across. Either way, you are dealing with bolt-in parts. 
Second, the GQ1 axle code sheds little light on what ratio that truck originally had, though you could probably figure it out with a little digging. This thread (https://ck5.com/forums/threads/gq1-axle-std-ratio.133111/) is a help in that area. It's probably a 3.73 or 4.10 in a 3/4-ton of that year (pure guess on my part, you won't really know unless you pull the covers).
Third, the G80 code refers to having a "gov-loc" unit in the rear differential. Read up on these. The differential locks when the wheel speed differential exceeds 100RPM (from side to side) AND the total wheel speed is under 25MPH. It's not like a clutch-based posi-traction unit, but it's not locked all the time like a Detroit, either. It has a unique place in the spectrum of locker options. Some folks hate them, some folks love them, most folks don't care. Everyone hates the 1/2-ton 10-bolt G80 units, as the carriers tend to fragment. The 14bsf and 14bff G80 units seem to hold up well enough.
Fourth, the automatic hubs in the front of your truck automatically lock when you engage 4WD AND DRIVE FORWARDS FOR A FEW FEET. They then unlock when you drive backwards for a few feet. The manual hubs in the donor truck do exactly what you tell them to do. Choosing between the two is a personal preference, but many of the folks here have had bad experiences where automatic hubs failed to lock when needed. And if you're already stuck, you can't spin the wheels forward to engage the front hubs without digging the rear end even deeper. The plus side is that you don't have to get out and manually turn the locks every time you wanna lock or unlock.
Fifth, the truck has extra spring leafs because it is a 3/4-ton set up for hauling heavier loads. This spring pack will be stiffer than your stock 1/2-ton pack, so you don't have much to gain by swapping it in (unless you are routinely bottoming out the 1/2-ton pack). If you wanna use it I would remove a few leaves to bring it in line with your existing spring rate. Or, since you aren't complaining about spring problems, I would just leave it alone.
You'll have to work pretty hard to break the 14bsf with 33" tires. I think it will serve you well. You don't have to do anything to it (assuming it has no issues), but rebuilding will bring some peace of mind that it will last a while. Or you can wait until it breaks and rebuild it then. The feeling of having much more torque probably means that you have lower gearing in the donor truck. Which may be a bonus if that's what you want in your application. If so, no regear will be required.
I think you scored with this rig. Good hardware at a great price.
Post up some more detailed specs for each of the rigs, and we will continue dispensing free advice.
Second, the GQ1 axle code sheds little light on what ratio that truck originally had, though you could probably figure it out with a little digging. This thread (https://ck5.com/forums/threads/gq1-axle-std-ratio.133111/) is a help in that area. It's probably a 3.73 or 4.10 in a 3/4-ton of that year (pure guess on my part, you won't really know unless you pull the covers).
Third, the G80 code refers to having a "gov-loc" unit in the rear differential. Read up on these. The differential locks when the wheel speed differential exceeds 100RPM (from side to side) AND the total wheel speed is under 25MPH. It's not like a clutch-based posi-traction unit, but it's not locked all the time like a Detroit, either. It has a unique place in the spectrum of locker options. Some folks hate them, some folks love them, most folks don't care. Everyone hates the 1/2-ton 10-bolt G80 units, as the carriers tend to fragment. The 14bsf and 14bff G80 units seem to hold up well enough.
Fourth, the automatic hubs in the front of your truck automatically lock when you engage 4WD AND DRIVE FORWARDS FOR A FEW FEET. They then unlock when you drive backwards for a few feet. The manual hubs in the donor truck do exactly what you tell them to do. Choosing between the two is a personal preference, but many of the folks here have had bad experiences where automatic hubs failed to lock when needed. And if you're already stuck, you can't spin the wheels forward to engage the front hubs without digging the rear end even deeper. The plus side is that you don't have to get out and manually turn the locks every time you wanna lock or unlock.
Fifth, the truck has extra spring leafs because it is a 3/4-ton set up for hauling heavier loads. This spring pack will be stiffer than your stock 1/2-ton pack, so you don't have much to gain by swapping it in (unless you are routinely bottoming out the 1/2-ton pack). If you wanna use it I would remove a few leaves to bring it in line with your existing spring rate. Or, since you aren't complaining about spring problems, I would just leave it alone.
You'll have to work pretty hard to break the 14bsf with 33" tires. I think it will serve you well. You don't have to do anything to it (assuming it has no issues), but rebuilding will bring some peace of mind that it will last a while. Or you can wait until it breaks and rebuild it then. The feeling of having much more torque probably means that you have lower gearing in the donor truck. Which may be a bonus if that's what you want in your application. If so, no regear will be required.
I think you scored with this rig. Good hardware at a great price.
Post up some more detailed specs for each of the rigs, and we will continue dispensing free advice.
Don't apologize for questions. We love answering questions. Helping folks learn and become better at this craft is why this site exists. You bring the questions, we'll answer them, and you'll wind up with a cooler truck.
This stuff is just icing on the cake!
Ok, first of all, check your counting again. I've counted the bolts 4 times now, and I can't get to 12, no matter how I try. That is a 14bsf axle, consistent with a 3/4-ton truck of that vintage. It does have 8-lugs, yes? You have the option of sourcing 6-lug shafts for it or just swapping both axles straight across. Either way, you are dealing with bolt-in parts.
Second, the GQ1 axle code sheds little light on what ratio that truck originally had, though you could probably figure it out with a little digging. This thread (https://ck5.com/forums/threads/gq1-axle-std-ratio.133111/) is a help in that area. It's probably a 3.73 or 4.10 in a 3/4-ton of that year (pure guess on my part, you won't really know unless you pull the covers).
Yeah, the GM brochure for that year indicates the K20 Suburban only got 3.73 or 4.10's that year. Unless changed, one of those two.
http://brochures.slosh.com/1981/burb12.jpg
In a 1981 K20 Suburban, GQ1 was 3.73 with an SM465, or 4.10 with a TH400.
https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/do...ion-kits/Suburban/1981-Chevrolet-Suburban.pdf
Martin
https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/do...ion-kits/Suburban/1981-Chevrolet-Suburban.pdf
Martin
Nice!
1985 K10 Warhawk
Registered Member
Bit of a delayed response. Was traveling and spending time with my wife and family. Any how here goes a giant post:
Thanks for that resource and letting me know they are 4.10 gears! (The 81 has an automatic tranny)
Sure enough, with the snow melted it does have 14 bolts. I am glad I counted right when I bought it haha! Now I feel a little silly, but am glad to have been wrong!
Me: Very novice mechanic (Learned how to change oil/fluids on this vehicle) I've never worked with my hands prior to last year. I have a helper friend, but he's only really ever changed his brake pads / shocks / oil.
My rig : 1985 K10 Silverado Suburban w/ Double shock mounts in front.
The body is rusted to all hell (Giant holes in floor pan/bed). The motor stalls unless gas is constantly applied. The exhaust is held on by vice grips that are welded hah. Very Very Very loud exhaust. The brakes would be spongy and not work or work really well when I brought it home. Sketchiest thing I've ever driven. The cab smells like a cigar room, if the only cigars ever smoked were backwoods/swishersweets. It's dizzying from the smell/exhaust leaking into cab. Leaks like 1/2 cup of oil after sitting for a day.
General Questions:
Current front:
That's all I can think of now. Advice, answers, criticism,
helping hand 
, anything at all is much appreciated. Happy New Year all!!
Thanks for that resource and letting me know they are 4.10 gears! (The 81 has an automatic tranny)
Ok, first of all, check your counting again. I've counted the bolts 4 times now, and I can't get to 12, no matter how I try. That is a 14bsf axle, consistent with a 3/4-ton truck of that vintage. It does have 8-lugs, yes? You have the option of sourcing 6-lug shafts for it or just swapping both axles straight across. Either way, you are dealing with bolt-in parts...Post up some more detailed specs for each of the rigs, and we will continue dispensing free advice.
Sure enough, with the snow melted it does have 14 bolts. I am glad I counted right when I bought it haha! Now I feel a little silly, but am glad to have been wrong!
Me: Very novice mechanic (Learned how to change oil/fluids on this vehicle) I've never worked with my hands prior to last year. I have a helper friend, but he's only really ever changed his brake pads / shocks / oil.
My rig : 1985 K10 Silverado Suburban w/ Double shock mounts in front.
- 4inch pro comp lift (done with blocks). Right when I purchased it 7/3/14. Shop performed. Steering stabilizer replaced. All shocks replaced. Ball joints upper and lower swaybar bushings. All wheel bearings replaced. Used right front inner axle replaced. 5 BFG AT2's 295/75r16/ 6x6.5 Pro comp D window aluminum wheels (This set me back 1800...why i'd like to retain the bolt patern)
- The 4WD works, but does not feel smooth (Like shifting the 1970s dodge truck I learned stick on.. really have to throw it into gear)Also only able to engage from neutral) 4 low and 4 high work.
- Automatic tranny : Jumps when I put it into drive/reverse. Dime sized drip of ATF on ground after about 3-4 days of sitting after driving. Old owner had rebuild 10/19/2009.
- I replaced the valve cover gasket, all fluids, plugs/wires, 11/9/14.
- I replaced mechanical fuel pump in the snow in 20* in a parking lot 1/22/15..twice, because the stupid ac delco autozone part was a DUD.
The body is rusted to all hell (Giant holes in floor pan/bed). The motor stalls unless gas is constantly applied. The exhaust is held on by vice grips that are welded hah. Very Very Very loud exhaust. The brakes would be spongy and not work or work really well when I brought it home. Sketchiest thing I've ever driven. The cab smells like a cigar room, if the only cigars ever smoked were backwoods/swishersweets. It's dizzying from the smell/exhaust leaking into cab. Leaks like 1/2 cup of oil after sitting for a day.
- The brackets that hold the bumper on appear to be cut to fit the bumper (I don't want to cut my bumper brackets up to fit the bumper, since it doesn't have a winch mount. I do want to learn welding and if my job interview Monday goes well, Ill have a welder in 2 weeks time.
- The 4WD works flawlessly. Shifts on the fly and it's very smooth. Does this mean the transfer case is better then mine?
- Front axles have manual locking hubs.
General Questions:
- What specs did I leave out that you would like? I can provide pics/try and figure out what all is useful other then provided
- What parts do I take off the Donor truck for the axle swap?
- Will I need a different U-Joint? Which one do I buy if so?
- Do the brakes I have on my current rig swap over to the donor axle?
- What do I primarily need to replace when rebuilding? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4031229&cc=1313093&jnid=490&jpid=10
- What should I look for to see if I even need to rebuild (The only thing I can think of are obvious gouges/wear in the gears.. lots of metal shavings)
- Tools: Any specialty tools I will need or want to have for the swap? I own an impact driver,
, a harbor freight torque wrench, 4 jack stands, one 2.5ton jack, and http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-...p-00953311000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
- Diff cover (Should I buy one, any brands better then others?)..
- Chomoly axle shafts.. Do I need them or is this overkill (I will probably be buying new axles with 6 lug patern as I havent had any luck sourcing them used yet)
- Locker (I know this is personal preference, but i defer to more knowledgeable opinions).. After researching the Govlok and being terrified of YouTube videos showing what happens to the rear dif when they fail.. Catastrophic damage.. I want to upgrade. This Diff will probably be my diff for the next few years/longer (Unless I break it) Next upgrade will be the engine (Either via rebuild or swap)
- Is Eaton detroit locker still the way to go? Ease of install / price ( 675 cheapest I've found). Cheaper if I go with a different brand (Seems consensus from several forums is the other brands are not as good)
- ARB air locker (Seems like best option, but doesn't seem like I will have any chance in hell of figuring this out on my own).. Would be cool to have onboard air for airing up/down tires. Pricey price priced. This would be my truck budget for the next 6-8 or so months spent)
- Eaton E-Locker (Automatically disengages and reengages when you change direction.. only thing that seemed iffy)
- Front gearing (Can I just swap the gears from the donor into the current axles?) They both look like GM corporate 10 bolts to me?..
Current front:
- Sway Bar: Is it scary driving with out one? I do drive this on the freeway. On my build thread, people said to ditch it asap or get a removable one. I looked into failure of the quick disconnect ones about a year ago and they seemed super dangerous.
That's all I can think of now. Advice, answers, criticism,
helping hand , anything at all is much appreciated. Happy New Year all!!
Swap front axles. Leave the gears in the housing.
You only need two shock up front (the longer set), not four.
I would just get a set of 8 lug 16" wheels, and sell the 6 lug wheels, but that is just me.
Martin
You only need two shock up front (the longer set), not four.
I would just get a set of 8 lug 16" wheels, and sell the 6 lug wheels, but that is just me.
Martin
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
What he said.
Id throw that swaybar in the garbage too. I took mine off and couldnt tell it was missing through driving it. Flex is obviously much better without it.
Id throw that swaybar in the garbage too. I took mine off and couldnt tell it was missing through driving it. Flex is obviously much better without it.
Looks like you have a good starting point. 
1) Transfer case: Those trucks should both have NP208 transfer cases, but they probably have different input shafts (function of which tranny is in front of it). If so, you will hafta swap the shafts before you can swap them, but that should be all you need to do if you choose to do that swap. But what (specifically) is hard to shift? If you are having a delay getting from 2WD --> 4WD while you're moving , it may just be you waiting for the synchros in the case to bring the front driveshaft up to speed (since the automatic hubs aren't engaged when you aren't using them). Comparing this to manual hubs (locked in ahead of time), you'd feel a difference, even though the case may not have any problems. A lot of folks dislike automatic hubs. I thought mine were fine, but I didn't bother keeping them when I redid my hubs. They seem to be less reliable, and they don't activate until *after* you engage power to them, so if you try to engage 4WD after you get stuck, you'll be digging a hole until they lock in. Mine locked in quite quickly, so I never had an issue with them, but I have heard stories of other hubs taking a while. IIRC, my owners manual says they aren't guaranteed to lock in until you have driven 30 feet. Which is a long distance if you are stuck in a snow drift.
If you're talking about an issue going from high-->low, you won't be very well able to shift that if you have any torque on the input shaft (an automatic tranny should be in neutral). Just to clarify, a K10 should have a 700R4 4-speed automatic, and the K20 should have a TH400 3-speed automatic. But lots of exceptions exist, so it's worth clarifying which boxes ya have.
For axle swapping, remove U-bolts, disconnect driveshaft (remove yoke bolts), disconnect the upper end of the rubber brake line near the differential, remove whatever e-brake cables are present, and disconnect the shocks. This should be all that you hafta do.
Personally, given that you have donor wheels on the donor truck, I would keep the 8-lug stuff and move your tires over (if they fit) or sell them and buy new ones (if they don't). Not really any advantage to one or the other (unless you wanted to upgrade axles again in the future, which probably isn't going to help given the purpose of this rig). The wheels & tires that you have should bring some money in, and you should wind up ahead of the game vs. buying new axle shafts which are just a sunk cost. But if you find that the axle shafts are cheaper (in the big picture) than horse-trading your tires around, I would retract my comment and go that way instead.
You should make sure your U-bolts are in really, really nice shape if you plan to reuse them. In your case, it sounds like yours are pretty new, but the 30-year-old ones on the donor truck may have lost much of their thickness due to rust. Whatever rust you actually have out there.
Do you have any reason to rebuild your axles? Since you aren't talking about gear-swapping, and the axles appear to be in good shape, why would you bother pulling them apart? If you decide that you just hafta put in 6-lug shafts (or you want a locker), then you might as well go through the rear end, as you'll hafta open it up to remove the axle shafts. But you really don't have any reason to open the front unless you think there is a problem. Swapping from 6-->8 lugs (or vice versa) is easy on the front (only one step more than changing brake rotors, as the caliper backing plate also has to be changed). To explicitly answer your question, yes, the gears will swap into your existing front axle, but it is probably a bunch easier to swap axles and then install your 6-lug hubs & backing plates. No axle disassembly required. Unless you're wanting to replace bearings and seals pre-emptively.
Lockers. What is your purpose for this truck? A Detroit locker (and similar units) will be locked by default (can be good or bad depending on what you want to do). A positraction unit will not lock, but does feature some torque distribution. A factory gov-lock will be unlocked until slippage occurs and then lock up (like a Detroit) when needed. They're pretty neat units. The 10-bolt 1/2-ton gov-lock carriers like to fragment (
), but the 14bsf and 14bff units seem to have a decent reputation. The truetrac is somewhere between the Detroit-style lockers and the clutch-style posi units. It will lock up, but defaults to being open. And evidently it doesn't always engage right away (search through the Garage section for a recent thread on this topic).
I have little first-hand experience here, as my Detroit-equipped truck is still being assembled. But I have owned 2 failed 1/2-ton gov-lock units ( ). Your choice of locker depends on what sort of driving you want to do. Locked most of the time, Locked none of the time, or smartly switching back and forth between locked and unlocked. ARB gives you a nice feature, but the pricetag has scared me off thus far. I wound up going with a used Detroit because it was significantly cheaper than buying any locker new (shop around, you may find a used locker for a song).
Needing upgraded axle shafts is a matter of how much abuse you plan to dish out. Big tires + locker + smashing into rocks = broken stock shafts. Playing around in snow with 35" tires (or smaller) is well below the abuse threshold that folks dish out for 14bsf axles (even with a Detroit). Right, @swettysblazer? I think upgraded shafts would be a waste of funding for your purposes. Same for diff cover. Purchase if you plan to smash your axle into rocks (on the back side, no less). Otherwise, stock is fine. Ditto for skid plates and pinion guards. You can throw an unlimited number of your limited dollars into beefing up your truck, but it's only worthwhile if you are actually going into situations where it can help you. I have had good fun in the snow with my stock K10 (non-lifted, no mods). See avatar picture. 
I have no input on the stock sway bar. I still have mine (on all 3 rigs), and have no complaints. But obviously the answer would be different in the rock garden.
Looks like some fun times are ahead for you. And good luck with your interview (today, right?).
Keep posting questions, we'll walk you through anything you want to do with this series of truck.
1) Transfer case: Those trucks should both have NP208 transfer cases, but they probably have different input shafts (function of which tranny is in front of it). If so, you will hafta swap the shafts before you can swap them, but that should be all you need to do if you choose to do that swap. But what (specifically) is hard to shift? If you are having a delay getting from 2WD --> 4WD while you're moving , it may just be you waiting for the synchros in the case to bring the front driveshaft up to speed (since the automatic hubs aren't engaged when you aren't using them). Comparing this to manual hubs (locked in ahead of time), you'd feel a difference, even though the case may not have any problems. A lot of folks dislike automatic hubs. I thought mine were fine, but I didn't bother keeping them when I redid my hubs. They seem to be less reliable, and they don't activate until *after* you engage power to them, so if you try to engage 4WD after you get stuck, you'll be digging a hole until they lock in. Mine locked in quite quickly, so I never had an issue with them, but I have heard stories of other hubs taking a while. IIRC, my owners manual says they aren't guaranteed to lock in until you have driven 30 feet. Which is a long distance if you are stuck in a snow drift.
If you're talking about an issue going from high-->low, you won't be very well able to shift that if you have any torque on the input shaft (an automatic tranny should be in neutral). Just to clarify, a K10 should have a 700R4 4-speed automatic, and the K20 should have a TH400 3-speed automatic. But lots of exceptions exist, so it's worth clarifying which boxes ya have.
For axle swapping, remove U-bolts, disconnect driveshaft (remove yoke bolts), disconnect the upper end of the rubber brake line near the differential, remove whatever e-brake cables are present, and disconnect the shocks. This should be all that you hafta do.
Personally, given that you have donor wheels on the donor truck, I would keep the 8-lug stuff and move your tires over (if they fit) or sell them and buy new ones (if they don't). Not really any advantage to one or the other (unless you wanted to upgrade axles again in the future, which probably isn't going to help given the purpose of this rig). The wheels & tires that you have should bring some money in, and you should wind up ahead of the game vs. buying new axle shafts which are just a sunk cost. But if you find that the axle shafts are cheaper (in the big picture) than horse-trading your tires around, I would retract my comment and go that way instead.
You should make sure your U-bolts are in really, really nice shape if you plan to reuse them. In your case, it sounds like yours are pretty new, but the 30-year-old ones on the donor truck may have lost much of their thickness due to rust. Whatever rust you actually have out there.
Do you have any reason to rebuild your axles? Since you aren't talking about gear-swapping, and the axles appear to be in good shape, why would you bother pulling them apart?
If you decide that you just hafta put in 6-lug shafts (or you want a locker), then you might as well go through the rear end, as you'll hafta open it up to remove the axle shafts. But you really don't have any reason to open the front unless you think there is a problem. Swapping from 6-->8 lugs (or vice versa) is easy on the front (only one step more than changing brake rotors, as the caliper backing plate also has to be changed). To explicitly answer your question, yes, the gears will swap into your existing front axle, but it is probably a bunch easier to swap axles and then install your 6-lug hubs & backing plates. No axle disassembly required. Unless you're wanting to replace bearings and seals pre-emptively.Lockers. What is your purpose for this truck? A Detroit locker (and similar units) will be locked by default (can be good or bad depending on what you want to do). A positraction unit will not lock, but does feature some torque distribution. A factory gov-lock will be unlocked until slippage occurs and then lock up (like a Detroit) when needed. They're pretty neat units. The 10-bolt 1/2-ton gov-lock carriers like to fragment (
), but the 14bsf and 14bff units seem to have a decent reputation. The truetrac is somewhere between the Detroit-style lockers and the clutch-style posi units. It will lock up, but defaults to being open. And evidently it doesn't always engage right away (search through the Garage section for a recent thread on this topic).I have little first-hand experience here, as my Detroit-equipped truck is still being assembled. But I have owned 2 failed 1/2-ton gov-lock units (
). Your choice of locker depends on what sort of driving you want to do. Locked most of the time, Locked none of the time, or smartly switching back and forth between locked and unlocked. ARB gives you a nice feature, but the pricetag has scared me off thus far. I wound up going with a used Detroit because it was significantly cheaper than buying any locker new (shop around, you may find a used locker for a song).Needing upgraded axle shafts is a matter of how much abuse you plan to dish out. Big tires + locker + smashing into rocks = broken stock shafts. Playing around in snow with 35" tires (or smaller) is well below the abuse threshold that folks dish out for 14bsf axles (even with a Detroit). Right, @swettysblazer? I think upgraded shafts would be a waste of funding for your purposes. Same for diff cover. Purchase if you plan to smash your axle into rocks (on the back side, no less). Otherwise, stock is fine. Ditto for skid plates and pinion guards. You can throw an unlimited number of your limited dollars into beefing up your truck, but it's only worthwhile if you are actually going into situations where it can help you. I have had good fun in the snow with my stock K10 (non-lifted, no mods). See avatar picture.
I have no input on the stock sway bar. I still have mine (on all 3 rigs), and have no complaints. But obviously the answer would be different in the rock garden.
Looks like some fun times are ahead for you. And good luck with your interview (today, right?).
Keep posting questions, we'll walk you through anything you want to do with this series of truck.
I wheel pretty hard with a lockright and 14 bolt semi float on 37's and have never had an issue.
1985 K10 Warhawk
Registered Member
I went to attempt the swap today and ran into a little snag. I have (2) sets of 6 ton jack stands which were too short to reach the frame rails. (3 ton each... Kind of dumb that they are labeled 6 ton, but i digress)
So, I ended up swapping the bumpers instead! (Maybe I will be more inspired, now that I think it looks cooler)
I was researching prices of taller jack stands and was a little dismayed. I then came across cribbing. Is it safe? The idea would be to make a platform out of some 4x4s and rest the jackstand on top of it.
https://paulhasenmeier.wordpress.com/2011/12/05/cribbing-for-heavy-vehicle-lifting/
Am I just being cheap? There are tons of images online of people with lifted rigs and cribbing, but I will be under the vehicle and my life/limb is important to me.
So, I ended up swapping the bumpers instead! (Maybe I will be more inspired, now that I think it looks cooler)
I was researching prices of taller jack stands and was a little dismayed. I then came across cribbing. Is it safe? The idea would be to make a platform out of some 4x4s and rest the jackstand on top of it.
https://paulhasenmeier.wordpress.com/2011/12/05/cribbing-for-heavy-vehicle-lifting/
Am I just being cheap? There are tons of images online of people with lifted rigs and cribbing, but I will be under the vehicle and my life/limb is important to me.
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