CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Considering Sound Mat- Does it Quieten and Keep Temperatures Reasonable???

PWagon

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 6, 2009
Posts
516
Reaction score
164
Location
Dallas
I've been reading a lot about sound mat, and I'm a little skeptical. Do any of you guys have any personal experience both installing and using the stuff? I have K5 Blazer, and I'd assume I'd need to install it between the headliner and roof, inside the doors, and inside the bed walls? Can the stuff be installed on the bottom of the cab? Is an off-brand sound mat as good as Dynamat? That's stuff's expensive, but is it worth the extra money? Thoughts?:popcorn:
 
I sank my Burb in a pond, were it sat for 6 weeks. So, obviously it trashed the carpet, and almost ruined the seats. Not counting every power window motor, and power lock actuator. But, back on track. I stripped it bare, Bed lined the tub, Installed countless squares of dynomat. I did the floor pans where your feet sit, inside the actual door, behind the door panel, the dash, tranny/t-case hump, and parts of the rear tail pan. Also inside the taillight area. Then I bought some aluminumized insulation stuff from Lowes, and completely covered the floor, and roof. Behind the hard to remove panels in the rear as well. Then bought new carpet with new jute padding and did it. Now, its way quiet, stays cool, and the radio sounds much better. I have drove it with open headers just to see, and while its loud, it is possible to have a conversation at 60mph. Much better than before. I have heard the knockoff dynomat is just as good, but I didnt know that at the time. I wouldnt waste the time on the roof with even knockoff dynomat. The roof doesnt let as much noise through assuming your gasket is good as the floor and doors.
 
So I went the reallhillbilly way and used ice guard.basically coverd from where your heals would hit if you were sitting on the back bench to the tailgate up the side walls,with the plan of using the same(sounds like) reflective as 454sub There was a definite difference in dB. Cant tell you the difference between DM and what I used..
 
Yah, 450+ just seems like a lot.... maybe if i had a show quality truck.
 
My M1009 rebuild is of course diesel, will be naturally loud, so I will be doing everything with a SD type matting. Also buying the best quality rug with the HD Mass Backing. Every body man I've talked to has told me that the insulation really works and the only way to go.
 
I'm using FatMat in my truck. I've only done the front half of the floor so far but it made a huge difference double layered. I'll probably only do single layer through the rest. FWIW, I've never used Dynamat, couldn't justify the cost.
 
I'm using FatMat in my truck. I've only done the front half of the floor so far but it made a huge difference double layered. I'll probably only do single layer through the rest. FWIW, I've never used Dynamat, couldn't justify the cost.

If you go fat mat, go with one of the thicker products. I got the fat mat model (the thinnest), and its too thin for what i wanted.
 
Pulled the Trigger on Some Dynomat...

Well, I bought the thickest Dynomat that Summit Racing sells. Two boxes of the stuff set me back a while on funds too. Anyhow, I took my interior out of my K5 and began installing the sound deadner. It only took me about two days (working about 4 hours a day) to do the entire cab. I installed it on the doors, inside the doors, A-pilar, B-pilar, inside the tailgate, inside the bed, and the roof of the cab. Anyhow, after it was all installed I was shocked at how quiet the cab is now driving down the road. I an actually hear someone whispering in the passenger seat. I guess I'll now be able to hear the names my wife calls me under her breathe. Anyhow, I'm a believer in this stuff. I don't have any fancy sound measuring tools to give you guys a before and after, but trust me. This sh!ts great stuff!

Dynomat10.jpg

Dynomat11.jpg

Dynomat3.JPG

Dynomat6.JPG
 
Dynomat is the best product out there, that's the reason it is so expensive. We used it at Stillwater designes on all the competition and SEMA vehicles. The only downside about dynomat on an older vehicle is if you ever have to pull it of it can be a bit of a mess.
 
I bought stuff called GTMAT off of eBay. My body guy helped me put it in at his shop as I wanted it all in before the truck goes in the oven for paint. I figured the heat will help the adhesive cure better. I used the supplied roller and a heat gun with welding gloves to apply it. Real easy with the welding gloves to smooth it out and get it into most places. The roller helps on the sharp edges. I bought 75sq' for $115 delivered and couldn't be happier with the results. I didn't want extremely thick stuff as I put it everywhere including the floor. I am putting in new rugs and don't want the floor too thick. My body guy told me that he liked the GTMAT better than the Dynamat. Felt it applied easier and that it wasn't as brittle. He does a lot of custom cars with expensive sound systems so he applies this type of material a lot. Here are some pictures of what I was able to cover with the 75sq' roll. Will probably picked up another small roll to do the doors and tailgate. I posted these pictures in my build thread already but thought they were appropriate for this thread.

100_4533.JPG

100_4534.JPG

100_4535.JPG

100_4537.JPG

100_4536.JPG
 
I installed Boom Mat on my firewall and front half of my floor after my Cummins swap. It made a noticeable difference. I still need to do inside the doors, the rear half of the cab, and the rear cab wall though
 
Top Bottom