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Contemplating a build? UPDATE 5/13/2015!!! See post #9+, would you trade??? PICS!!!!!

On a totally separate note- does anybody know if 4th gen Dodge wheels will fit on a K30? I was thinking I may pick up a set of takeoffs from a 4th gen Power Wagon (like my DD/current wheeler) and just run the same tire and wheel combo on both my trucks for simplicity's sake. (37x12.50R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers on stock Power Wagon wheels) I would just take them off and try to bolt them up except I know the K30's lug nuts won't work and I would hate to spend the money to buy different lug nuts just to find out the wheels won;t fit properly!
 
I would assume they would. Just mount one up and see if it fits without lugnuts.

Martin
 
if you already have a G80 in that 14BFF I would run it for now and spend your money else where....I doubt you'll hurt in the the one ton application. A moderate application of throttle and tire spin will get it to hook up (if indeed the clutches are still in good shape)
 
82355 said:
I would assume they would. Just mount one up and see if it fits without lugnuts.

Martin
Click to expand...

I may just do that. Looking at them some more though, I think it way not be the way to go, the Ram wheels have a LOT more backspacing than what I think will look good on the K30.

76zimmer said:
if you already have a G80 in that 14BFF I would run it for now and spend your money else where....I doubt you'll hurt in the the one ton application. A moderate application of throttle and tire spin will get it to hook up (if indeed the clutches are still in good shape)
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I'll have to see once it runs! Only bummer is- the option list revealed that the truck has 3.73 gears, not exactly ideal for 37s, lol!
 
The wheels should fit... the lug pattern should be teh same but I don't know about the backspacing.
 
swettysblazer said:
The wheels should fit... the lug pattern should be teh same but I don't know about the backspacing.
Click to expand...

Near as I can tell, the lug spacing is the same, just Rm lists it in Metric Form instead of Standard form (8 on ____mm vs 8 0n 6.5) BUT, I am wondering if the lug seats of the wheels will work with Standard lugs since the Rams stock lugs are Metric? Also, I don't know about the center hole size but, that will be pretty easy to determine since it will either fit, or it wont't, LOL!
 
If its metric it probably won't work... Kinda like the Super Duty FOrds versus the older ones.... 8 on 170 won't bolt on to 8 on 6.5
 
swettysblazer said:
If its metric it probably won't work... Kinda like the Super Duty FOrds versus the older ones.... 8 on 170 won't bolt on to 8 on 6.5
Click to expand...

It is 8 on 6.5 BUT, listed as 8 on 165.1 (same pattern) BUT, it uses metric studs and lug nuts. (14mmx1.5 thread studs near as I can tell, started in 2012 (my Power Wagon's year), were 9/16" before 2012) Wonder if maybe the wheels didn't actually change and can still run 9/16" studs with matching lug nuts??? (thus matching the K30?)
 
Hmmmm..... was looking for parts and found a pretty little K-10 regular cab shortbed I want (also brown), may be buying that and selling or parting this truck....

SO, the opposite of y5mgisi, I guess, LOL! (since he went regular cab to crew cab both in the same color)

EDIT: Nevermind, I have decided to keep the K30!!!
 
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So..... debating between cutting and sectioning the frame to shorten the wheelbase down to short shortbed length OR moving the spring hangers forward and chopping the excess frame off the back end. (if just moving the hangers forward, will this work at stock height? May be a while before I can afford a lift) Either way, about a 140.5" wheelbase, 2' shorter than stock, and about 9" chopped from the rear overhang, for about a 5'3" or so overall length to the bed.

Thinking I may go ahead and do a dovetailed tube bed skinned with cut down bedsides, and may taper the front clip too!

Thinking the side profile will be something along the lines of these (but with a little less rear overhang, equivalent to that of a Blazer):
Barrys4doorlowleftview-1.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f87/Ipodjunky/Barrys4doorlowleftview-1.jpg
(photoshops from 67-72chevytrucks forum)
 
It's gonna be a while. I haven't been able to to work on it at all since I bought it. I got lymphedema and cellulitis in my foot and had to lay down with it elevated any time that I wasn't at work. (and had to miss 2 weeks of work) Finally have it pretty well dealt with but, I need to work on my other truck to get it prepped for upcoming events before I can even look at this one!!! I will update when I make some progress though! Sorry for the wait!!!
 
UPDATE:
Still at a bit of a stand still, waiting for the carb STILL!!!! I should have just rebuilt it myself!!! Also, still waiting for my leg to heal up to 100% had some vein surgeries earlier this month and just today got clear of the restriction on strenuous activities. Still waiting for my leg to heal more, have to keep it elevated when I am home and when I sleep. Had a biopsy done, Atrophy Blanche so, a lack of blood flow, likely due to veinous insufficiency. Hopefully the surgeries will rid me of the issues, it seems to be clearing up, thankfully!

So, looking at wheels, thinking about these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-044-8980/overview/

Anybody else running U.S. Wheels???? Their site says they are made in the USA, I like that! Also, the 3000lb load rating is nice! (most of the other steelies I have found are only 200lb rated)
Brand:U.S. Wheel
Manufacturer's Part Number: 044-8980
Part Type:Wheels
Product Line:U.S. Wheel 044 Series Stealth Crawler Black Wheels
Summit Racing Part Number:USW-044-8980

UPC: 68772100917
Wheel Diameter: 17 in.
Wheel Width (in): 9.000 in.
Wheel Material: Steel
Primary Wheel Color: Black
Wheel Finish: Matte
Manufacturers Wheel Series: U.S. Wheel 44 Series Hammer Wheels
Backspacing (in): 5.000 in. (would this be a good backspacing? I plan on cutting the fenders open so, fender clearance is not an issue BUT, is this backspacing excessive and will cause any type of chassis rubbing???)
Offset: 0.00mm
Wheel Construction: 2-piece
Beadlock Functional: No
Beadlock Included: No
Lug Nut Seat Style: Conical seat - 60 degree (is this correct for our trucks?)
Hub Centric: No
Center Bore Diameter (in): 5.150 in. (is this correct for our trucks?)
Load Rating (lbs): 3,000 lbs.
Wheel Bolt Pattern: 8 x 6 1/2 in.

Did a compression test on the motor, 6 cylinders were good (220psi), one was bad (110psi), one was horrible (55psi). The bad cylindersare wet numbers but, adding the oil only added like 10psi. My coworker says he bets stuck rings and thinks I should just run it for a little while and hope they come unstuck, thoughts??? (I am partial to this idea since it gives me a chance to see if it is actually driveable (feel out for other problems) and it lets me get the truck registered so the Home Owners Association in my neighborhood will get off my back (they gave me 'til febrary 1st to either get it plated or remove it from premises before I get fined (HOA covenants say no unlicensed vehicles allowed)) BUT, I don't want to do irreparable damage to the engine)
Assuming I can run the engine for at least long enough to get a feel for the truck and get it inspected, here's the to do list before Feb 1st:
1) order wheels
2) get the carb back and install it (along with new plug wires, some are currently melted to the manifolds) and clean up some of the random mess of lines to nowhere that are under the hood right now
3) syphon out the tanks and get fresh fuel
4) put the 37s on the truck and cut fenders to fit them
5) replace windshield
6) get windshield wipers and horn working (don't know the cause of their being inop yet)
7) make some plexiglass vent windows (some asshat busted them out breaking into the truck when the P.O.'s workers borrowed it)
8) pray that despite all the sketchy wiring on this truck all the lights work, LOL! ( I will be cleaning up the wiring soon but, there are only so many free days between now and the first, LOL!
9) (hopefully) pass inspection
 
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blowedupmotor87 said:
Assuming I can run the engine for at least long enough to get a feel for the truck and get it inspected, here's the to do list before Feb 1st:
1) order wheels
2) get the carb back and install it (along with new plug wires, some are currently melted to the manifolds) and clean up some of the random mess of lines to nowhere that are under the hood right now
3) syphon out the tanks and get fresh fuel
4) put the 37s on the truck and cut fenders to fit them
5) replace windshield
6) get windshield wipers and horn working (don't know the cause of their being inop yet)
7) make some plexiglass vent windows (some asshat busted them out breaking into the truck when the P.O.'s workers borrowed it)
8) pray that despite all the sketchy wiring on this truck all the lights work, LOL! ( I will be cleaning up the wiring soon but, there are only so many free days between now and the first, LOL!
9) (hopefully) pass inspection
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You got some work cut out for ya. :popcorn:

What sort of inspection do you hafta pass?
 
campfire said:
You got some work cut out for ya. :popcorn:

What sort of inspection do you hafta pass?
Click to expand...

Yes indeed! Fortunately the inspection is just safety and visual. (1995 and older) Really basic. They just look to make sure all lights and indicators work, wipers, horn and (maybe) seatbelts work, that tires have enough tread, and that the OEM emissions stuff is present. (they just look at it so, it can be inop and still pass as long as it looks like it works, thankfully no more sniffer test!)
Forgot to add two other things:
10) before the inspection, get the seatbelts to work
11) new exhaust (existing is full of holes)
 
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