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Controller Kwestion, '84 6.2 Sub...

uglytruk

uglytruk

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I just had delivery of my '84 6.2 sub from California, and the glo plug light goes on for several secs, but then stops cycling.

I've had a few of these, so I'm familiar with the routine. Sometimes the "click" will happen, the dash light will flash on, but then that's it.

IMO, it should stay on longer, and cycle 'till it's fully warmed up. A coupla' times it'll flash for a second, like it's shorting out. I've turned the key to try promp it, no dice.

This year has a "Ford" style relay on the drivers inner fender, and obviously, NO RUST! I tried wiggling the wires, no improvement.

Suggestions? No time ta search this AM, we're getting serious snow! Off ta PLOW!

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11 28 07 Sub Vair Arrive Fr Cal Vids 001.jpg

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My '82 K5 is doing the same thing, needs a new controller. At least thats what I believe it is. (for the $100+ price tag, I'm not willing to tell you it is for sure though). The relay is not staying energized so its either a break in the power to the relay (straight from the battery, so not likely), a break in signal to relay (controller, most likely) or possibly a bad ground. The dash light is rigged in with the same post as the glow plugs as well, so if it comes on, the gp's are getting power.

-Martin

If you want, rig a momentary switch with keyed power to the signal wire from the controller on the relay. Then the system stays automatic, but you can also manually hold the switch for glow if you need it. Just don't glow it for more than 6 seconds or maybe 5. If you want a longer glow, I'd recommend going to an AC60G glow plug, or at least another thermal limiting glow plug. With those, glow times of 12 to 15 seconds are possible. With the cheaper glow plugs, you'll swell and melt the tips right off of 'em, then you can't get them out, or worst, you break a tip off inside the precup and can't get it out.
 
Which wire? Or is it obvious?
(I installed 4 SSDiesel's GP's in my Texas Banks, but the turbo side, sheesh...)
Anyhow, I'll look at the wires today. I like the idea of manual override. Just need the thermal limited ones, as I believe the SSDiesels are. Need more. And testing? Just "spark" them with a direct battery?
I wonder if only a coupla are currently working. Maybe that's the reason for the quick cycling???
 
The wire you want is the ground signal side of the relay, I believe the wire is blue. Do not cut this wire, just splice into it. Run that wire back to a momentary switch mounted in the cab...the kind you have to hold down. Run the other side of the switch to a good ground. Now anytime you want glowplugs just push the button. If your automatic controller is still good then it will still be functional as well.

A good place to run the wire through the firewall is to pull up the gromet around the parking brake cable. This will put you wire by the wheel well about an inch back from the firewall. It was the easiest place I found. maybe others have a better way.

Hope this helps

Fred
 
It may well be switched by the ground. I was not aware that the controller was a ground/open type circuit. I apologize for giving you incorrect information on that one.

The controller is doing a similar thing on my blazer, but I installed brand new AC60G's 10,000 miles ago. But if your glowplugs are an unknown quality, its always best to change them.


-Martin
 
Before I do surgery... this is what's wrong...
I tried it last night, the light comes on with the CLICK, cranked 'er, and light flashed on, all normal. Then the light "flickered" out, that's not right. It seemed like something failed, or arced open. Maybe the "Ford" solenoid is failing and can't hold the large current. After I change it, I'll do a "post op". I like opening failed stuff...
My friend that sells electrical car parts promised new switches. I've got LOTS old DEEZELS, so need a break.
And what momentary button have YOU used?
 
uglytruk said:
Before I do surgery... this is what's wrong...
I tried it last night, the light comes on with the CLICK, cranked 'er, and light flashed on, all normal. Then the light "flickered" out, that's not right. It seemed like something failed, or arced open. Maybe the "Ford" solenoid is failing and can't hold the large current. After I change it, I'll do a "post op". I like opening failed stuff...
My friend that sells electrical car parts promised new switches. I've got LOTS old DEEZELS, so need a break.
And what momentary button have YOU used?
Click to expand...

If you hear the click then I would bet that the solenoid is alright and the coil is working correctly in the solenoid.....Maybe you could check your resistance across the coil? I am sure someone on here knows what the ranges should be? If not I can go measure mine for a comparision. But I would put my money on the controller itself.

I used a 12V DC 10amp rated momentary switch I found laying around. I think you would be alright with a 5 amp even as all it actuates is the coil of the solenoid. I guess if we knew the resistance we would know for sure!!
 
uglytruk said:
Oysh... I'm so bad with 12 volt electical. I'll do it tomorrow
Off ta deliver my 454 Sub now. I'll miss it... ..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKToZM7ICFw
Click to expand...

The first one you show, the round controler, that only cycles once, it doesn't cycle after the initial glow cycle.
It was 85 or 86 that they added the extra cycling untill it warms up.
My 85 does that but my 82 didn't.

Martin:
I have one controler for you for much cheaper than $100:D
I know I had one in my 82 van and the steeler wanted $235 plus $35 to order it because they didn't stock it. :rolleyes: yeah right.
I bought the whole van for less.:haha:
Anyway after that I went to PNP and got a couple, I will sell you one.
 
uglytruk said:
So what's the diff between and early and late sensor? Besides the big price?

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/0120.asp ...bottom of the page...

Still havn't figured out why the Glo circuit cuts out...
Click to expand...

completely different design, and they look different.
The early design is round with 6 prongs, the second design is kind of flat rectangular and IIRC 4 leads??
Why the price difference I don't know.
 
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