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Converting to 1 ton, not an axle question

sled_dog

sled_dog

1 ton status
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been there done that on the axle swap end of things, what about converting the suspension to one ton levels? When I bought my last vehicle I should have gotten a 1 ton pickup. Instead I bought a 3/4 ton 2wd. It gets good mileage but thats all its really good for. Its got nice power too but yeah thats just trouble. Thinking I should take my 89 Burb and truly convert it to 1 ton and a crew cab with a tiny bed for a tow vehicle. Anyone ever done this or know if its doable? I don't know the frame difference between 3/4 ton and 1 ton if there is any.
 
Just stiffen up the rear springs and put a full floater in it and you've got a 1 ton, basically. The 1 ton brakes are bigger, but a disc swap would fix that. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
The 3/4t Suburban frame is marginaly stronger and heavier.
It may be better to locate a 1ton frame and build from there.
But if you use the exsisting frame, just reinforce it, and use the 1t springs or make custom packs to get the GVW desired.
I've seen a 1 ton dually 2wd burb before, guy took a 3/4t and swapped out the entire suspension for 1 ton pieces, even the contol arms and all steering parts up front.
 
There is actually a frame difference between 1/2, 3/4, and 1 tons?

What is the difference?
 
IIRC, the 1/2's and 3/4's have the same frames, and the 1-ton's are thicker. Course, /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif's are only available in 1/2 ton, and /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif in 1/2 and 3/4 ... so the only time you'd see a "real" 1 ton frame is in a pickup.

Hmm. No mention of it here

though. Donno.

-- A
 
If I recall correctly the diff was in the thickness of the frame metal itself, but I may be mistaken and thinking of the 1 ton vs 1/2 ton too.
 
I personally think swapping to 1 ton springs would make it ride rough. I also think swapping frames would be a waste of time.
 
I went "1-ton" on my Burb.

To make the front brakes 1-ton, you need lower balljoints, splindles, rotors, calipers, and brake hoses. I also changed the coils (only because I had them handy, and they were 0.020" thicker). The rest of the front suspension is the same. 3/4-ton master works, but when it craps out, I'll be putting on the 1-ton one instead. (Not sure if there even is a difference.)

Sure the frame isn't as big as a 30-series pickup, but that won't affect towing. The taller frame channel is for payload; i.e. heavy stuff piled on top of the truck.

I think it'd be more fun to hack open the back of the Burb and build a bulkhead than swapping on a crewcab cab. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

This little how-to project is for a K5, but I'm certain it could be applied to a Burb also.
http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/projects/rec62.pdf
 
If I were to keep my Burb I would do just that. Not that same thing(I did that to my 84 K5 before I chopped it up, but rather graft the rear of it on right behind the doors. But I think I am going to sell the burb. I want a Crew Cab 4x4. And yes I mean a crew cab long bed with big lift /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif whatever just keeping my 97
 
the main differance between one ton is the frame. suspension is the second. the vin is the third.

you can upgrade the front and rear springs, but your frame is still not rated for a true 2000lbs.
grant
 
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