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coolant temp sensor and flooded TBI

natemc

Adventure is an Addiction
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Trying to understand the programming. How much does the coolant temp sensor signal in the ecm? It started great untill it warmed up last night.
 
and just to be clear tbi has 2 sensors 1 in intake = to computer . then 1 in head is normal spot for dash gauge.

if temp sensor not working right its like leaving the choke on all the time . computer wont know if motor cold/hot or what.

but like said grab a scanner and look at the data the computer is getting and verify its good .
 
sounds like you have a temp sensor bad but i would check for codes first. then if possible get a scanner to see exactly where the sensor is reading at. but there are several sensors or other possibles to make it run bad.
 
No codes in the ecm. I dont have a scanner that reads live data for obd1. What scanner do you recommend for live data? I use a laptop on the diesel side and have been thinking of getting something other than my generic code reader.

What should the sensor measure out to when hot or cold? Is that info available?
 
Trying to understand the programming. How much does the coolant temp sensor signal in the ecm? It started great untill it warmed up last night.
Usually the other way around when a CTS goes bad. When they fail it tells ECM it's -40C outside and adds a ton of fuel for choke.
Here's how to test it.
http://www.eagle-mark.com/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=87


Now an O2 sensor may be your issue. Even if there's no code I have seen them sooted, clogged etc... should be replaced every 30K.

Cap rotor and fuel filter?

If you want a scanner for everything, everycar then an AutoXray 7000 is a great tool. $250ish on Amazon. If not then use a laptop TunerPro and the corrrect def files. Free! Need to buy a cable about $50, but way more time involved and then you'll start tuning.
 
The coolant sensor fixed it. 10 bucks doesnt justify testing to me when the sensor is old anyways. Change the sensor for ****s and grins. No more CEL and it runs right.

Thanks for the help and info. The scanner I have now is from Eqquis but doesn't do live obd1 data. I'll look into the tunerpro
 
The coolant sensor fixed it. 10 bucks doesnt justify testing to me when the sensor is old anyways. Change the sensor for ****s and grins. No more CEL and it runs right.

Thanks for the help and info. The scanner I have now is from Eqquis but doesn't do live obd1 data. I'll look into the tunerpro
Your right! It's a cheap sensor, but an OHM meter will test it in the truck and on our trucks it's to easy to get to. But it is third thing that wears in these systems.

EST module in distributor can test good 2 out of three times, which means it failed. It's the only part to be flaky... But auto parts stores don't wnat to do it three times. I bought my own EST module tester from a closing GM dealership.

CTS just wear out usually do to being in coolant for 20 years!

O2 sensor should be replaced every 30K but no one does till they fail and wonder why their fuel milage drops... :whistle:

I love my AUto Xray 7000 scan tool. It does all OBD1 and all OBD2! :woot:
 
I'm planning on replacing all of my remaining sensors when I put the harness in it. The O2 will get changed when the exhaust is redone if not sooner.
:thumb:
Thanks again for everyones help.
 
Really no need. Just a new O2, new CTS. Finding stock GM EST is the best most reliable module, although one that can be flakey. Off brands are worse!

Look for Ragged on ebay and buy a spare set of sensors for cheap compared to new prices of some! :eek1: Like $50-$60 for a MAP sensor, $5. at JY! And I have never seen one go bad, ever! But I just read here I think that a guy had one fail...
 
It is more or less piece of mind. The long block is new so why not on the sensor
 
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