Cooling issue with my vortecs

[Cornfield creations]

I put a GMPP 350 HO in my k-5. I used a GM intake manifold that accepts a quadrajet carb. I know the vortecs don't have the coolant bypass built into the heads so you have to run a bypass hose from the intake to the water pump. Well I had a short hose from the front of the intake to the water pump, but I had to put my electric fan temp sensor there. So I moved it to the 5/8 outlet on the driver side of the intake( I believe only GM intakes have this, not the edelbrocks). It cools fine. The problem is I feel it cools too much. I have a 195 thermostat in it and I think that I am bypassing too much coolant throught my 1/2 inch hose going to the water pump.

I am just wondering what other people did to relieve this problem. Could I run my hose from the intake to the heater core and then the other hose from the heater core to the water pump? Right now my hose is going from the radiator to the heater core. I thought maybe If I moved it to the water pump instead it would act as a long bypass from the water pump to the heater core to the intake manifold and would allow it to maintain temp better.

My fans very rarely ever kick on and with summer coming up I am going to have my fans on for the A/C and it will NEVER reach temp.

Just wanting to see what everyone else has done or suggests. THanks in advance guys!

 

[blazin_blazer]

my gmpp vortec carb intake has no crossover provisions or threaded bosses???

 

[dyeager535]

You don't use a bypass on vortecs. You need to drill steamholes for a 400 small block. You are overheating because you are "leaking" pressure out of the system that would otherwise force it through the radiator hose.

 

[Jason4x4]

You only need the bypass nose if you have vortec heads and a vortec block. If it is an old school block, you dont' need the bypass. the way to tell, is pull the water pump off, and if it has the 4th hole on the pass side of the block where the water pump mounts, you don't need it. the reason for the bypass is because the vortec blocks didn't have that, if that makes sense.

 

[Cornfield creations]

You only need the bypass nose if you have vortec heads and a vortec block. If it is an old school block, you dont' need the bypass. the way to tell, is pull the water pump off, and if it has the 4th hole on the pass side of the block where the water pump mounts, you don't need it. the reason for the bypass is because the vortec blocks didn't have that, if that makes sense.

Yeah it was a crate motor motor. It's a newer style block, the same as the ZZ4 crate. One piece rear seal. I ran it without the hose at first ( I didn't read the paper that came with the intake) and the temp would spike real fast and max the temp gauge. Anyways turns out it needed the bypass hose to relieve pressure below the thermostat. Pressure was building up and forcing the thermostat closed.