What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Cooling problem.....

hi pinion

hi pinion

3/4 ton status
Joined
Sep 25, 2003
Posts
5,354
Reaction score
0
Location
**PLUMBING THE WORLD**
Ok, first off, this is not for my blazer,,but, for my work van 1996 ford e-250,,,,here we go,,

so far i have replaced the radiator,, the heater core,,, the thermostat,,, and it wants to still get hot :confused:

last summer, it ran cool (under halfway,, ) and lately even when its night time and theres a coll breeze out, it still wants to get hot. :confused:

The only thing i havent replaced is the waterpump,,,,

and i also havent replaced the cap to the radiator. Could this be something ,,AS SIMPLE AS THE CAP? :confused:
 
On a side note,,,, i am running 50/50 . I was told the 50/50 would be fine . I dunno, ive almost replaced the entire cooling system. Also when i noticed the heater core leaking,(before) i put some of that stop leak in the motor, to try to cure the heatercore leak, ,, but it diddnt work. Could that have caused some harm? :confused:
 
The only thing left is the block, heads, and the pump. you might have accidentally slowed the flow with that stop leak. I was gonna run it but i changed my mind when i saw the clumps in the can. I bet your block needs to be flushed out...

just my 2 cents.
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
The only thing left is the block, heads, and the pump. you might have accidentally slowed the flow with that stop leak. I was gonna run it but i changed my mind when i saw the clumps in the can. I bet your block needs to be flushed out...

just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
tell me it aint so :crazy:

flush the block out hu? Is that something a mechs shop would have? Does it involve dissasembling the motor? :crazy: Also, i only used one thing of it, i sure hope it not serious:crazy:
 
If you wanted to go gunghoe all out bust your balls waste of time flush you could pull it all apart and have it hot tanked......OR you could down to your local auto parts store and get some flush stuff for 15 bucks....;)


Real easy to do... just read the directions. Usually involves running the flush stuff for about 15 minutes draining it then repeating. My bros buddy has a 91 350 pickup and he was overheating until he flushed her out.

you might want to ask somebody about that stop leak though... Im not sure that stuff willl come out with a flush.. :dunno:
 
Last edited:
96'... I was thinking fan clutch, but that probably has an electric fan?

Are you sure it's gettng hot? Maybe temp sender is off?

I have heard a rad cap can do that. Never seen it, but it seems to me I heard that somewhere...
 
mr_clean said:
96'... I was thinking fan clutch, but that probably has an electric fan?

Are you sure it's gettng hot? Maybe temp sender is off?

I have heard a rad cap can do that. Never seen it, but it seems to me I heard that somewhere...
Click to expand...
WHATS UP MR CLEAN??!! Good to meet another sacramentan !!! :) Yeah, the temp guage hu? Could it be a faulty temp guage?The 96 has the belt driven fan,,,its a non overhead cam engine, its not a triton, but the one before that. I havent a clue whats going on with it. My grandfather said it could be as simple as a cap. If its just a cap im gonna feel like a dumb ass. :grin: But i think its something else. :confused: It wants to jump weird sometimes. Like the needle jumps weird sometimes, but when it gets hot it stays hot. It might be the guage, i dont know.I really need some help on this though, its the whole wings of my operation,,if the van is down, i dont make any money:crazy: Later, Jacob:)
 
yeah whell, the only things i have left is the cap, and the water pump. I thought water pumps just went out all the sudden? either it is ,,or it isnt sort of a deal. Ill try the cap, but, to those of you who are reading WTF else could it be??? :confused:


Also, this engine flush thing, ,, what does that entail? I wonder what could be the odds of that suff doing any harm? I never ran it before this time, and it was just once. Hmmm, im stumped. :crazy:
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
If you wanted to go gunghoe all out bust your balls waste of time flush you could pull it all apart and have it hot tanked......OR you could down to your local auto parts store and get some flush stuff for 15 bucks....;)


Real easy to do... just read the directions. Usually involves running the flush stuff for about 15 minutes draining it then repeating. My bros buddy has a 91 350 pickup and he was overheating until he flushed her out.

you might want to ask somebody about that stop leak though... Im not sure that stuff willl come out with a flush.. :dunno:
Click to expand...


like i said you buy some stuff in a can from your auto parts store read the directions which usually means running the motor with the flush stuff in your cooling system for 15 minutes and then draining it and repeating. real easy.
 
Well pressure does raise the boiling point of the coolant, as does mixing anti-freeze with the water. A bad cap would allow the pressure to bleed off and overflow the overflow.:crazy: It shouldn't cause it to run hot though.

I'd consider trying another thermostat. After getting a few that were bad right out of the box I test new thermostat's before installing them. A pot of water on the stove is all it takes, as the water nears boiling the thermostat should open and you can watch it do so.

A flush would also be a good idea, that stop leak stuff is brutal.

Rene
 
Damn, it looks like the flush is in then :crazy:


Ill flush it out i guess. I got the stat from pep boys. I diddnt know that the stop leaks did so much harm to stuff. :crazy: Ill never use that stuff again. It says it dosent hurt anything on the bottle!!!!! I sure hope that stat was a good one, because the way that ford designed things like the housing for the stat , etc, its not a drop in from the top deal like chevy. They made it so its on the side,it was kind of a PITA to install.
Is the waterpump out of the question? Thanks guys, Jacob:)
 
have you changed the hoses?

And what do you consider hot? Is the gauge getting into the red area or staying below it. The gauges on the fords are poorly designed and are not too accurate.


A blown head gasket is something else to consider.
 
As far as I know, a bad radiator cap will case some overheating problems, but you would have coolant leaking out from the overflow or the cap itself. If you use the flush, Be careful. The flush likes to break loose scale in chunks that kike to clog up the insides of your newly recored radiator. I unfortunately know this from experience.
 
hi pinion said:
Like the needle jumps weird sometimes, but when it gets hot it stays hot. It might be the guage, i dont know. Later, Jacob:)
Click to expand...


Does the engine smell hot, or are you just going by what the gauge says???

If you have a shorted sender wire, it can "peg" the gauge....if the engine compartment "smells and feels" normal, maybe that's all you're dealing with???

Do you have access to one of those handheld pyrometers (looks like a gun that you point at stuff to see what temp it is)....a few measurements of the radiator, block and hoses might tell you quite a bit. :cool1:
 
I gotta agree with dirtwarrior. But if your gauge is jumping around it could be a temp sending unit as well. I don't know if this is Ford applicable but on Chevys sometimes you can get an airlock in the block. Cooling systems suck almost as bad as electrical.:mad: I had a problem with a Heep 6cyl many years ago, replaced the leaky water pump and coolant started pumping out the radiator cap. Turns out some butt munch had placed a reversed impeller on the pump when it was rebuilt. Good luck, Old Dawg
 
*When* is it getting hot?

There's a difference between running hot only at idle, and running hot all the time whether idling or moving.
 
I highly doubt the stop leak is your problem. I've used that stuff in numerous engines without problems. We put some in a gas powered welder that had a leaky radiator and it worked like a charm, that was 10 years ago and the cooling system hasn't been touched since. We have 13 different water cooled engines here on the ranch from a forklift to backhoe. 3 of those engines have had a coolant leak at one time and I fixed it with a bottle of aluma seal.

I vote fan clutch.
 
stop leak isn't the reason for the flush.... all motors need periodic flushes stop leak or no stop leak. It has to do with electrolisis...

could be either but I still have the original fan clutch on my 88
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom