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Cooling System Overhaul - Stumped and Frustrated

I think it's REALLY fun trying to warranty out a mail ordered part when it fails, having to remove it, send it back, wait for the company to ship you a replacement part, all the while the vehicle is torn down and undriveable..:doah:
 
If you have doubts about your cooling system (not that you should now) run the minimum antifreeze necessary for where your truck goes (30% gets you down to 5*F) and use an additive like water wetter to keep corrosion at bay.

I have a hard time believing these trucks as new had a real problem overheating, but then again I tend to think we use them a lot harder (much heavier loads, more travelling) now than when they were new, too. So every bit may help depending on your application.
 
I think it's REALLY fun trying to warranty out a mail ordered part when it fails, having to remove it, send it back, wait for the company to ship you a replacement part, all the while the vehicle is torn down and undriveable..:doah:

Saying i shouldn't have ordered an item like a rad?

My local parts stores suck. Ive finally learned to give up on Kragen and the like, and the rest are REALLY expensive.

Since i've been buying delco or comparable parts online, i haven't had the NEED to warranty ANYTHING. This is the beauty.

Guess ill cross that bridge when i get there.
 
Just going off some experience from a radiator issue I ran into with my mothers truck.

I bought a new radiator from a local shop here in Phoenix, who also does business with that 1-800-radiator place,, it has a lifetime warranty, nationwide.

Well, we get her all moved back to Indiana, a few months later it started leaking. The only place that could warranty it out, was in Indianapolis, shes'up in the north east area, about 3 hours north of there.

I called them, they said we could either drive to Indy, or ship it to them, (I had to pay for shipping there, they would cover return shipping of the new radiator) This deal kind of sucked and I was a bit irritated.

I hung up with them after telling them I'll see what I can do, I'll finger something out.

I kind of got lucky, as they called back about 30 minutes later and informed me that they had a truck that was heading up to that area in a couple of days and asked if I could have it removed and ready for swap when the driver got there.

This worked out great, they even swapped it out with a better quality OEM unit, instead of the aftermarket make, both had plastic tanks, but the OEM unit was beefier.

Basically, I'm just not a fan of larger, warranty capable parts that will eventually fail in the future. Everything fails at some point. That's why I hate flying as well :D
 
Basically, I'm just not a fan of larger, warranty capable parts that will eventually fail in the future. Everything fails at some point. That's why I hate flying as well :D


This is the key. When i was in college, and money was tighter, i bought garbage with lifetime warranty that i could swap out whenever i wanted.

Since then, ive gotten smarter, and buy better quality stuff, hoping to not have to swap out as regularly.

Recently took at stack of sensors back to Kragen and said i didn't want to warranty them anymore. They had all failed more than once and been warrantied, and i wanted my money back. They found about 75% of the items in their system, and gave me my money back for those :woot:
 
The vista pro radiator that showed up was Aluminum/Plastic. Seems to be rockauto's fault.

They were happy to make it right, but wouldn't cover shipping to have it to me before friday, despite my $1000s of orders.

Ordered from Summit at 8 last night, and it will be on my doorstep sometime this morning. Being close to NV ROCKS.

Did all the rest of the cooling stuff last night. Wasn't in very rough shape. The brass/brass radiator i took out needs to be boiled, and cleaned, and used by someone else. I just don't have the time to deal with it.
 
So, after all that, truck still runs warm.

Not unusual to see a hair over 210 on the freeway, flat ground, cruising. Even with outside temps in the 40's and 50's.

What gives? Any other ideas?

NO WAY this thing should be that hot when i'm in the snow.
 
Hmm that's wierd. My Sub stays around 190 all the time. It only goes to the 210 area in the summer when the AC is on.
 
I just control F'd the whole thread for gauge and measure, and I don't see how you are measuring temp?

Personally I know what is "normal" on my stock gauge, but if I want to be precise, I look at what the CTS is reporting to the ECM. Up to about 204 is normal on the freeway for me with a 195* thermostat.
 
I'm relying on the stock gauge.

If it never moved past 1/2 (210˚), i wouldn't be concerned. Its how easily i can get it to climb above that point that worries me.
 
I don't disagree. Realistically if you had excess cooling capacity, it would never get warmer.

Thermostat is a good one? I haven't had the opportunity to play with a real overheating problem, but I would suspect one that doesn't open very far, or has poor flow in general might cause problems. Anymore, thermostats are like fuel pumps. If you don't go AC Delco, you don't know what you are getting. But again, that's kind of a guess on flow...but given how cheaply aftermarket parts are being made, I wouldn't put it past manufacturers to cut whatever corners they can.

Water pumps are pretty cheaply made too, but then again I have never seen an OEM one to know if they are any different than the aftermarket chain parts store ones being sold.

Air dam in place?
 
Delco pump, forget the stat (Staun, probably).

Same issue with this stat, and last one. And last pump.

And now have a delco fan clutch too.

No air dam, mine is a 3/4 ton.
 
No mods for diesel radiator. Direct swap.

I would like to know what diesel radiator you used, because every one I have been around would not be a direct swap. Even if you had the shroud and the hold downs, the hoses are a goofy size, and you need a spacer to get the 350 fan into the shroud.
 
I'm relying on the stock gauge.

If it never moved past 1/2 (210˚), i wouldn't be concerned. Its how easily i can get it to climb above that point that worries me.

How hot will it get? I also would be wondering about the gauge, as I have had some that read high and some that read low.
 
How hot will it get? I also would be wondering about the gauge, as I have had some that read high and some that read low.


In normal use, just above 210. Towing, it will get to the 3/4 point, and approach the red. Towing up grades this last summer, i ran with the heater on full blast to help a bit :eek1:
 
Those gauges are pretty near bulletproof in my experience. While they may not be dead on for accuracy, if they climb under load you can be pretty certain it IS working.

3/4 tons didn't get air dams?
 
My old 350 ran hot too. I always had to turn the AC off and put the windows down when towing the X30 up hill. I had the same stock radiator as you did.

When I changed out the motors and went with the GMPP 383 I put the 4 core in. It never goes over 200 with the AC on and towing in the hot or summer. I would even bet it wouldn't get that hot with the old rad if I had it boiled out.

I'm just betting the water jackets were clogged up on the old motor. At some point I should pull the heads off of it. I kept it in the shop because it was a 4bolt main 350. I figure some day someone will want a vintage 4bolt sbc.
 
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Those gauges are pretty near bulletproof in my experience. While they may not be dead on for accuracy, if they climb under load you can be pretty certain it IS working.

3/4 tons didn't get air dams?

No, mine didn't have one either.
 
Looking back, i wish i had put a bigger radiator in. But, that being said, this is a BRAND NEW brass core brass tank radiator. It should get the job done.

Any way to clean out the crap in the motor? Will anyone flush it with hot water or something? I flushed it as best i could, but its hard to do without putting tons of coolant down the stormdrain.
 
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