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corporate 10 bolt bearing kit

metalneverdies

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I ordered part # DRK321 from rock auto because they listed it as a kit that includes everything.

There is the pinion seal and one axle seal. I don't know which bearings are which. Doesn't include axle bearings.
No crush sleeve.

What kit do you guys use for replacing all bearings and seals

20130823_140506.jpg

20130823_140513.jpg
 
ring and pinion kits don't come with axle seals or axle bearings .

the reason you got 2 seals is same bearings but 2 different pinion seals 1 front and 1 rear application .

when you need axle bearings and seals its a trip to the local parts store .

sorry to inform you of this . but now you know.

heck now I see that kit didn't even give you a new crush sleave.

fyi I am no axle reman expert . but read a lot and played with some and there still going strong.
 
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both good stuff.

but more often than not timkin was factory used as was koyo in gm stuff.

why do you need ALL new ?

do you just need axle end stuff ?

more info get you best answer . :popcorn:
 
My rear pinion feels notchy when I turn it. I figure, while I'm in there I might as well replace all bearings and seals. It has been a while since they were done and the truck was used for towing a heavyish travel trailer a few times before I owned it.

The gears seem to look ok, so I just want to replace pinion and carrier bearings and axle bearings.

I also think the notchy pinion is my vibration issue.
 
What about a Doorman brand crush sleeve when I get the other bearings?

It seems like only one of the bearings in my kit have a removable race? Thought they all would.
 
by the pic there correct. bearing sitting in the race and all srink wraped to the backer board.

not to be mean but do you know what your about to get in to ? some of your posting info is a bit off to me . like you have no clue what your typing about or looking at.

seting up gears is not for a novice with basic tools for the most part. not your exact axle but close to same setup as the 10 bolt for installing parts . http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ this will give you a idea on whats ahead for you .

not saying you cant do it .

as to dorman stuff . . . I use it all with a big grain of salt . some good lots cheep crap and most made in china and fits like crap .
 
I could see the race in two. The other two I could not. Didn't want to open the package and really inspect the gears if it wasn't the right kit.

I am just replacing the bearings. I should be able to start with the same shims as in there now. Then adjust from there.

I have not actually setup a rear end before. Like 4 years ago I played with a mock up rear.

I plan on ordering a pinion holder from summit and picking up a dial indicator. I should have the rest of the tools. I just need a bit of guidance. I tried finding a good written procedure online, but most seemed pretty sketchy.
 
if going summit racing then grab the kit I posted to ya .

and there tool also http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-18002/overview/

don't forget you will need a way to safely pull/press the inner pinion bearing on/off if you need to change the shim out.

and if the stock setting is off on the new stuff the stock factory 1 piece machined shims wont work for adjustment. you will need a aftermarket set . http://www.summitracing.com/search/...del/gm-8-5-in?SortBy=None&SortOrder=Ascending and pinion kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-1100/overview/

read up that pirate link I posted on the dana rear . its close to the same idea/style as the gm axle is .

and fyi I tried to re bearing a axle once with used gears that had bad pinion bearings . I couldn't get it right and or good pattern as the gears were messed up . had to install new gear set then she come right in place.

old gear set is now modern art piece on my dresser in my room .
 
I read through that pirate article before deciding on doing it myself. Thanks for the link though :thumb:

The problem I have is no one has strict listings for the torque values. Every thread does it differently.

The rear was rebuilt years ago after the gov lock exploded. Hopefully it has aftermarket shims already. If it doesn't I will order the ones from summit.

I plan on having a shop press on and off my bearings.

What is the bonus to the solid spacer? Just torque it to manufacturers (ratech's) value and call it a day?
 
solid spacer is preference of choice.

and in my opinion more first timer friendly .

over do a crush sleave = new one or burnt bearings if not found before running axle .

if the carrier was swaped and shim kit used you don't get the extra shims you might need later if redone .
 
Alright. Well I will order the shim kit for pinion and carrier, holder / puller and the solid spacer kit.

Do you know of a place that lists appropriate torque values for the job?
 
bearings - the 2 largish units that are the same size are your carrier bearings.

the 2 remaining are the pinion bearings...easy to sort out.


someone makes a solid spacer & shim kit for the pinion bearing - saves the hassle of overtightning the crush sleeve by eliminating it. I used one on my first gear change...loved it! I think it was Reider or Ratech...


p.s. in your pic I see 4 races...
 
bearings - the 2 largish units that are the same size are your carrier bearings.

the 2 remaining are the pinion bearings...easy to sort out.

What had me so confused was that there was supposed to be a full axle overhaul kit with shims and everything.
 
ahh, I see...I always had to buy them separately :dunno:
 

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