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Could you identify these axles please.

blackk5350

1/2 ton status
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I had to take them on my phone. for some reason they wouldnt let me bring my camera in. im pretty sure the big uns are the 14 bolts. and the small one is either a dana 44, 60 or 10 bolt

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if they are in deed a 4 bolt and at least a dana 44 im going to pick them up this week. the front axle was on a 77 camper special or something truck with a a little indian Tipee sign if that helps
 
ah hell i was hoping that front would have been a least a 44 so i could do a little beefing up on it. i will go pick up that 14 bolt this week. Het do you or anyone know how to tell the gear rati on on them
 
The easiest way is to rotate the pinion and count the rotations until you get one revolution at a wheel. The other way is to pull the cover and get the numbers off the ring, or count teeth on both the pinion and ring then divide the ring by the pinion numbers.

There is nothing wrong with a 10b front, they are just as strong, arguably slightly stronger, than a D44. And parts for most D44's will interchange. I am currently in the process of prepping a 10b and 14bsf to put under my Blazer. They just happened to have the 4.10 ratio I wanted.
 
thanks alot. im getting them from a place called pull-a-part there 148 plus a 30 core charge for each axle. do you think its a good deal? i could trade my old 10 bolts back in for my core charges back
 
SORRY FORGOT TO ASK. if i were to go out there tommorow or wednesday and get these what tools should i bring, because some of those bolts looked mighty rusty
 
thanks alot. im getting them from a place called pull-a-part there 148 plus a 30 core charge for each axle. do you think its a good deal? i could trade my old 10 bolts back in for my core charges back

Depends on the condition of the axles, gear ratio, if the rear is open or not (open is generally considered to be better, Detroit lockers can only be installed in open diffs on a FF 14 bolt).

$150 per axle could be too much or a good deal, check out the craigslist in your area.
 
Core charge? All they are gonna do is re-sell your old axles for about $100 ea. Find some on CL & re-sell your 10b's.
 
SORRY FORGOT TO ASK. if i were to go out there tommorow or wednesday and get these what tools should i bring, because some of those bolts looked mighty rusty
A cutting torch would be the main tool I would bring. :grin:

Really a long breaker bar and sockets should work, but there are plenty I have done where the only tool was a hot wrench.
 
they charge a flippin core charge? wtf the only thing they could possible core out is the brake calipers what a joke

sorry based on that alone I would happily pay a bit more than support a place with that rip off.


at anyrate,


you will need a

15/16 deep socket and wrench for the lug nuts

1/2" wrench for the u-joint retainer nuts

pliers/cutters to cut the brake lines free

3lb mini sledge and a pickle fork for the steering draglink

small pipe or breaker bar to use on the deep 1 5/16 u bolts if they fight you


pretty much just remove the drag link, free the front drive shaft, then pop off the u-bolts and lastly cut the messy break lines.

lift up the vehicle with one of their cranes or gantry crane and roll it out.
 
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well you dont have to have a core charge. they add it onto your bill but you can keep your own axles if you want( i know its poopy) im going to stop at 2 other junkyards tommorow and ask if they have any 3/4 ton 1 ton gear. thanks again
 
they charge a flippin core charge? wtf the only thing they could possible core out is the brake calipers what a joke

sorry based on that alone I would happily pay a bit more than support a place with that rip off.


at anyrate,


you will need a

1 5/16 deep socket and wrench for the lug nuts

...snip

I'd try a 7/8" deep socket for the lug nuts and save the 1 5/16" for removing the pinion nut one day...:D

Rene
 
thanks alot. im getting them from a place called pull-a-part there 148 plus a 30 core charge for each axle. do you think its a good deal? i could trade my old 10 bolts back in for my core charges back
So they rebuild axles there and sell them? If they are selling axles that somebody else turned in (as cores) I would look over that junk pretty closely before laying down cash. I don't know if you can get $60 elsewhere for your 10 bolts or not. I tried to give away a 10b rear and eventually had to scrap it. If your axles are 3.08 or 2.73 you might as well turn them in for the core charge.
 
Looks like you are from Kentucky, I'm from Ohio so the same region when comparing prices. Basically you are paying $178 per axle or $356 for both, and you have to do all the work to pull them out in the junkyard. The price itself is on the high side, but still within reason. Around here it's pretty easy to find either axle for $100 - $150 already out of the truck and all you have to do is hand the guy the money and watch them load it into your truck.
 
The core charge is a way for them to make more money. The yards don't rebuild them, they turn them in for scrap value and if you decide not to bring your axle back for the core charge then they make more off of you than they would have for scrap so they win either way.
 
ok to clear everything up. i went there today got a quote. both 10bolt front from disc to disc+ 14boltff drum to drum 249 tax included. All i have to do is somehow coarse the things out from under the truck. the truck has no wheels on it and is off the ground a little so it shouldnt be to hard. plus a spanish guy in a fork lift comes and loads them into your truck for you. DONE

found this on craigs http://louisville.craigslist.org/pts/1005351748.html
 
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Rip off or not, all pick n pull locations charge a core charge, it's one way to show a lower price for a part than it really is, most people end up paying the core charge, and very few actually bring back a core.
They just scrap the cores they don't really use them as cores.:rolleyes:

they charge a flippin core charge? wtf the only thing they could possible core out is the brake calipers what a joke

sorry based on that alone I would happily pay a bit more than support a place with that rip off.


at anyrate,


you will need a

15/16 deep socket and wrench for the lug nuts

1/2" wrench for the u-joint retainer nuts

pliers/cutters to cut the brake lines free

3lb mini sledge and a pickle fork for the steering draglink

small pipe or breaker bar to use on the deep 1 5/16 u bolts if they fight you


pretty much just remove the drag link, free the front drive shaft, then pop off the u-bolts and lastly cut the messy break lines.

lift up the vehicle with one of their cranes or gantry crane and roll it out.
 
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