couple of build questions

[white90burb]

Ok so I'm going to be building a suburban. I want it to be as strong as I can make it. I already have a 14bff. I want to do a shave on it and do the high angle driveline 1410 swap on it. What else can I do do make this axle super strong.

Also I will be doing the 203/205 doubler. Can you put 1410 yokes on either side? If not what is the best stronger route for drive shafts.

I will be putting in a dana 60. Still undecided on ford hp or chevy lp. What are the pros and cons of the ford hp. What can be done to either ford or chevy for strength. What is the bigger yoke for the 60s?

 

[shaun89]

Ok so I'm going to be building a suburban. I want it to be as strong as I can make it. I already have a 14bff. I want to do a shave on it and do the high angle driveline 1410 swap on it. What else can I do do make this axle super strong.

Also I will be doing the 203/205 doubler. Can you put 1410 yokes on either side? If not what is the best stronger route for drive shafts.

I will be putting in a dana 60. Still undecided on ford hp or chevy lp. What are the pros and cons of the ford hp. What can be done to either ford or chevy for strength. What is the bigger yoke for the 60s?

the 14bff should be strong enough with stock axles,its one of those things u wait til u break then replace (it will be a while) and for the doubler,i am almost certain u can put 1410s on for the outputs. a con of the ford 60 is that the knuckles are weaker. another thing u should remember is that the ford drops on the opposite side then chevy so u will need a t-case that drops driver-side to work with the ford 60. not many people snap knuckles off but the ford knuckles are the weaker of the 3 (chevy,dodge,ford) and a chevy 60 comes with a 1310 yoke. and a ford come with i believe a 1330. but if u get a 1350 or 1410 ull be fine. and any thick walled driveshaft is good. local driveshaft shops could whip u up some driveshafts or u could go to a well known offroad shop like tomwoods or highangle driveline.

 

[white90burb]

I know about the opposite side drop on the ford. When I do the doubler I would get the ford 205 if I decided to go that route. Also I'm not sure but I thought I read somewhere about swapping chevy knuckles on the ford 60. Or the reider knuckles oh man so much money .

Anyone else want to chime in more info the better.

 

[GreenieK30]

I would do 1410 u-joints, yokes are available for the 205 and Dana 60// 14 bolt.. If you want a high pinion front axle, find a Chevy Dana 60 and swap in a Currie Rock Jock thirdmember, that way you can keep the good Chevy outers and it will be cheaper then all new stuff and stronger then a stock Ford axle.

 

[white90burb]

Hmm never thought about that lol. I had thought about the rock jock but though it was a whole axle. If going from a chevy 60 to the rock jock do you think there would need to be any drive shaft mods, say if I was wheeling the stock axle then decided to switch?

Just looked at their site it says its rated for 4000 max. Seems like a built burb would be too much for it?

 

[GreenieK30]

The driveline length will be different. The rating is probably for a rear. A HP 60 rear is bad except for light weight buggys IMO. You can buy just the centers, domestic or import castings and reuse the Chevy tubes and inner shafts. Another option would be to keep the Chevy 60 front and add Dana 70 gears and carrier but a HP would offer a better driveline angle.

 

[76zimmer]

You can put 1410 yokes in both axle pinions, and in the 205 also. You need a 32 spline (non syncro type) front output to use the 1410 though. I just went through all that in my build, check it out for more ideas.
I would stay with a GM 60F for simplicity in our trucks, plenty strong for a stout rig, and if you leave it open diff, you shouldn't have any problems with it, as long as everything is in good condition. Be sure to check the Kingpins though, they may need a rebuild.

 

[white90burb]

Zimmer I was reading ur build thread just now. Got about half way through my eyes hurt lol. Lots of good info on the t-case stuff and yokes. I plan on doing a huge build like that but slightly different route. Buy all the parts and rebuild and beef up as needed while keeping the rig mobile to wheel around with. Then when I get my parts done do a tear down and rebuild of the rig. Good info can't wait to read the rest of it.