What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Cowl Hood Sealing

k20

k20

3/4 ton status
Joined
Sep 9, 2001
Posts
5,067
Reaction score
1
Location
Mineral Springs, NC
Hey all, Im gonna see if I can get a cowl hood for my birthday. One of the last expensive things b4 paint, woohoo. It'll be a goodmark 2" steel cowl induction hood. What I am wondering, is has anyone sealed it to the air intake? I have a buddy with one on his blazer, but its just open, he doesnt have it sealed in any way. Im wanting to make it a cold air intake, completely sealed from the engine heat. I know this would involve welding a plate over the part of the cowl not directly over the intake, but curious, has anyone done this? Hopefully someone has, just to give me ideas on how to do it. Thanks. Chris.
 
Im not into this kinda poopoo, but doesnt Summit / Jegs offer kits that make scoops/cowl intakes fully functional? pretty sure they are called "scoop trays". AFAIK they are mainly for hood scoops, as the name implies, but they are pretty simple, a slightly modified one might work perfectly for a cool air intake.

j
 
Moroso use to make an airbox kit. as stated, they are for prostreet scoops, etc, not sure they're big enough for a cowl hood....

they seal to the underside of the hood...
 
Moroso PN's

from moroso 2004 catalog
pn 65960 for a holley 4 bbl with a 5 1/2" neck
replacement foam pn 97070 4" x 60"
 
tx_sub said:
from moroso 2004 catalog
pn 65960 for a holley 4 bbl with a 5 1/2" neck
replacement foam pn 97070 4" x 60"
Click to expand...

them be the ones.:thumb:

i took a quick peak at Summit and didn't see them listed, wasn't sure if they still made em...
 
The benefit from a cowl hood is to cool the entire engine compartment and not the air intake alone. This works by a loww pressure area developed by the truck traveling over the road surface, creating a vacume area inside the engine compartment which thus allows the cooler air from the ouside of the cowl hood to "shed" over the entire engine compartment, If you have a non-sealed air cleaner this would benefit you, by allowing the cooler air to enter the carb right from the outside of the engine bay. If you seal this off and direct the air to enter the carb only you would lose this benefit, you would not even have the advantage of ram-air because the air is'nt being forced in by the speed of the traveling vehicle. This is at traveling speeds above 20 mph, at slower speeds this set-up could help you out.
 
The benifit to cowl induction is not to cool the entire engine compartment it is to induct cold air into the carb. That is why the factory ie. Chevy built them and they were sealed. Thats why NASCAR runs them they do work at high speeds even better more pressure off the windshield. The only minus in a 4x4 would be if you built a sealed unit and hit a big puddle you could possibly hydrolook your engine, saw a superstock do that with not to big of a puddle.
 
Those oughta work, only one question, its probably utterly obvious and im a moron for missing it.......but how do you run a filter with those?
 
you would use eaither a flat pice of metal over the filter the same size as the filter, or i would use one of those K&N filter tops, but after that article im questioning the use of K&N
 
hummmm, its dosent look big enough to fit a regular round filter in it, what i was talkin about was puttin a round filter in it and using the carb stud through a round plate, on top of the filter, you understand what im trying to say? Im not real good at describing stuff, i could draw a picture of what im talking about.....i would look through a K&N catalouge they make just about everything, the K&N filter on the sprint car i used to work on was oblong......
 
Yeh I know what your tryin to say. But I dont think anything more than like a 4 or 7" filter would fit, and that would probly be a performance decrease instead of an increase. I could put an oblong filter in it, but it couldnt be very tall, (well, no taller than the foam).

Im trying to think of a way to use the stock setup, lemme run this by you. Lets say I take the stock breather, and put in a smaller diamter(but taller) filter in the middle, with a k&n extreme lid, then using foam, seal the stock outter metal shell to the bottom of the hood. Then use the stock snorkel for more added airflow. Think that would work, or would it be retarded looking and performing?
 
I think that the sealing area would be smaller than the cowl opening on the hood, wich would make the cowl not really workLet me see if i can find some pictures of a chevelle or el co. stock cowl set up, ther might be some ideas there
 
http://musclecars.biz/images/chevelle/1970/r11.jpg thats the chevelle setup. Its kinda what I was thinkin about, just using the stock aircleaner base as the surround.....hmmmm wonder what the chevelle breather sells for, or if its even reman'd. I know Ill have to do some work to the hood underside, cause the cowl doesnt come down and end in a circular opening like that chevelle's does. Ah the price to be different.
 
70chevSS7.jpg
70chevSS9.jpg

this is the factory set up on a chevelle so i guess that what your talking about would work, as long as the hood is cut the same to match the seal on top of the air cleaner, so i guess it all depends on wht the underside of the hood your planning on using looks like
 
Good Idea, but what is going to happen when you hit a puddle or water or soupy mud and it hits your windhield and goes into the cowl?

I have a Goodmark Cowl Hood and I have had this problem, not sure what I am going to do to remedy it. My main problem was that the distributer was geting soaked.

Keep me informed :D
 
mabye some type of baffles? i could come up with some better ideas if i knew what the bottom of those hoods looked like, i want to do the same thing, but i want function over form, i wont do it just for looks
 
Alright, I got pictures of the hood, but give me until tonight to post them. Now that I have looked at my hood, I am not sure if you can do the hood scoop sealing because you would have to cut away most of the structural bracing of the hood. Then you might as well skin the hood and run hood pins. Which I am not in favor of for a for a rig that sees many street miles.


Pics will soon follow.
 
Well the puddle issue, really aint one, cause in all likelihood after I get hood(and paint will soon follow), this truck probably wont wheel again(it may depending on if I get stupid) and Ill get another truck for a play toy(read:if i hit a tree or rock, o well), something that has a few dents and maybe a little rust, not my dent free/rust free truck I have now. I'll just think of my truck as one hellaciously large muscle car. Drives like one anyway, fast in a straight line, screw turns, and screw stopping.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom