What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Cracked Differential

K

K5on38s

Registered Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Posts
90
Reaction score
0
Location
Buffalo, NY
Yup I cracked it almost in half. And so you under stand ill start in the begining... It started in august when i 1st bought the truck and i backed into a '01 Honda Civic, well i didnt notice at the time but the bumper of the civer hit my rear pumpkin denting the cover (GM 10 bolt 8.5) well it got pushed soo far back it hit the ring gear...well as i said before i ddint notice it, well anyway i drove around wirh it like that till yesterday when my rear right wheel studs "failed" and i was gonna take the axle out to replaced the studs, well when i took the cover off it was chewed up by the gear and thn i notic the "GOOD" part the differential was cracked around the spider gears (in a swirl partern....starting on the left goin around an stopping on the right.)..... someehow its worked all this time so ill ride it till it blows and through a nine inch or a dana in there /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif but how do i get the axles out? i took the bolt out thew holds the pin in but the pin didnt budge....????
 
hmmmm, 10 bolt with 38's and you think the Honda cracked it?? /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
Honestly the only wrenching I'd do on a 10 bolt is the bare minimum it takes to remove from under the truck...they're not even heavy enough to use as a boat anchor.

Ford 9" prolly would do a hair better, but if you want durability with that tire size go with a 14 bolt FF rear.

Rene
 
I'd personally rather have a 10 bolt rear in my truck than a 9". A 9" isn't all that much stronger and it actually takes work for it to get there.

A 9" is great for a drag car that weighs 2500 lbs. A 6,000 lb truck needs a REAL axle. Ditch the idea of a 9". Keep in mind that a Dana 60, which is a relitively small rear axle for a truck has a 9.75" ring gear.

In other words, it's 14 FF time.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
ill ride it till it blows

[/ QUOTE ] This is a REALLY bad idea! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif It's very easy for an entire axle/wheel/tire combo to come completely off the truck when the diff blows apart on a 10-bolt rear end. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif If it happens at speed it can be very ugly. I'd fix it ASAP.
 
so you have no idea what gears are in it, no idea on the T-case, you want to but a Ford 9" in the back when you can runa a 14BFF, and you are going to run a 10B on 38's till it blows?

thank gawd i'm not on the road with you on the East Coast. Post a pic so we can warn all the members and their families what your rig looks like so they ca steer clear!
 
I had a 12 bolt come apart at 35 mph (pinion bearing). Trust me, even at 35 mph, it was one of the scariest experiences I have ever had behind the wheel of a vehicle, and if you have big/wide tires on like I did, it adds to it. My rear tires just completely locked up. It was an ass puckering experience to put it mildly.
 
Zakk,
Under normal circumstances id keep my comments to myself /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif, but i took offence to what you said, basicly because you have no idea; who i am, what i know, what my financial status it.... do you thik before you say stupid things? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

1. This is my 1st truck Hence i know very little about 4wd systems about em. Gimme an F-body(camaro) and ill prolly do circles around you.....

2. I dont know my gears because i really dont care. I use it toi get me to work, and to plow. When i get to it, i get to it. Like when i get my new dif, of axle and i have it all apart and infront of me in a nice warm garage, not in my driveway in a foot of snow /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

3. i dont know the t-case because I dont know how to tell, yes i know thgey all look differant, but thats all i know.

4.And yes im gonna run the rear end till i can afford something else. Its been like that since august, if takin it then mud god knows how many time in the fall ive been plowin since november it hasnt failed yet (it prolly will now that ive said that)And you ask yourself "why". because i have just about enough money to pay my bills and put gas in the beast for the next week or 2 let alone enought to afford another posi unit.

This thread's intention was so that i COULD LEARN" how to take the diff out when I have the $, not to hear some stupid smart ass comment thats gonna waste bandwidth and that doesnt help in anyway. So maybe im not doin' the right thing with the rear-end. Is it not in your vocabulary to be civil and say something like "jee it's prolly not a good idea to run that 10 bolt till it granades.....it could have bad side effect you could possibly injure some one or yourself...." i mean i know its alot of words and all but come on dont be an ass all your life. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif Atleast the other guy told me that the axle could come out,i didnt know?! i just found out what full floating and semi floatin axle are....eh w/e your prolly not gonna readthis and even if you do you not gonna care /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
I just want to say that Zakk isn't an [censored]. When you've been here a while you'll see many posts about 10 bolts...and you'll see many posts from people that think a 10 bolt on 38's is fine because they have thier head buried in the sand. In his own way Zakk was just trying to convey how bad an idea it was to keep running that diff the way it is.

The 10 bolt in a car or light half ton 2WD pick-up is fine, but in a K5 it's marginal at best. With c-clips holding the axle, drum and tire to the truck they can be dangerous when damaged.

The 10.5" C14 FF rear is very common and easy to source without breaking the bank. They do bolt right in with only minor mods...

Rene
 
I undrstand the message he was trying to portray, im just pissed at the way he said it. Im not as "versed" in 4wd, i know it an extremly bad idea now and am planing a differant approach. but seriously though.....you and he basicly said the same thing...but look at the way he said it.....

Thanks to alll for the advice, but really, how the hell do i get the axles out, thats all i really wanna know lol

i dont remeber what i said i had......but i found out it "was" a gov-lock unit.... those are bad right? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
I normally do not keep my comments to myself so here goes:

I am tired of the same questions, usually if i don't know your username, i just keep moving. Cracking a Diff is special carnage so i stopped in. The idea that you want to run something until it blows while on the street is stupid. I don't care if your trying to learn, endangering others is just plain lame.

Second, i don't care who you are, what your financial status is, because I know a few people out in your neck of the woods, and you running around with a C-clip rear end waiting for it to blow is
gay.gif
…PERIOD!

Other people have posted after my post about how scary it was when a 10B let loose. Ryan B. did it a few days ago and it wasn’t too fun for him either! I have seen rollovers on the freeway when tires let loose and sheer of for one reason or another. I think it is YOU who need to think about what stupid crap you say before tossing a “ /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif “ when talking about riding it till it blows.

Why don’t you stop being an ass and fix it, so that you and other on the road don’t get hurt. Or is that too hard a concept to grasp?
huh.gif
 
Well to get the axles out you'll need to remove the C-clips. There is a cross shaft going through the middle of the carrier, at one end there will be a small bolt that holds it in. If it comes out just look up and say thanks...quite a few of those bolts shear off. If it does shear off you'll have to use a BFH and a drift to shear it off even more so the cross shaft comes out. Pound on the end of the cross shaft until it starts to budge...

Once the cross shaft comes out the axles can be pushed inwards a little and with some small pliers the C-clips can be removed. Then just pull the axle shafts out.

Gov-lock is otherwise known as a grenade locker, especially in a 10 bolt. There are some dandy pic's of shrapnel that used to resemble a Gov-lock floating around this site. These are not "Rebuildable"...once they're done they're done, usually it's quite an impressive pile of parts.

4WD tech is a whole other world, but the learning curve is steep. Take some time to read through old posts and do searches...

PS, Zakk is one of the most generous guys I know on this site...he'd literally give you the shirt off his back if you needed it./forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif He's also got a boatload of knowledge and experience he'll freely share. Give him and this site a chance and you'll see that for yourself!

Rene
 
Yes, Govlocks are bad. I destroyed mine with 32" tires, and I am surprised yours lasted with 38's. As for getting the axle out, you have to drop the cover, and push the axleshaft inward so you can get the c-clip out. This is after you removed the tire, brake drum, and bolt. Once the c-clip is out you can pull the axle out. You may have to take a hammer and tap or even give the axle a few good blows to get it inward enough to remove the c-clip. Then pull it out.

As for Zakk, his comments may not have been as modest as they could have been, but if I knew that you had a partially cracked diff and where driving on it I wouldn't want to be anywhere near you either. Its just a safety issue. My life is not worth loosing because someone is being unsafe. Not knowing is one thing, but once you know that you are endangering yourself and possibly others around you on the road there is a REAL problem. No matter what financial situation. I would beg borrow or steal the cash for another diff to make my truck safe to drive. No matter what my situation was.

Harley
 
This is what happenned to my 10 bolt on 35's. Needless to say that POS got ousted and I put a bigger rear end in there. BTW, this happenned pulling out of my driveway. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
carrier.JPG
 
I love that picture!/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I actually had it on my desktop for a while! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

Rene
 
Holy s***!! And I thought my 12 bolt carnage was bad....or my 10 bolt with missing ring gear teeth. WOW, that's GREAT!!

That said, C-clips still hold my tires on, I've got a 14 SF for the time being...but I only have 35s and that axle is on its way out.
 
little bolt sheared off inside.....GAY!! really GAY!!! what rear end would require the least amount of "cuttin and pasting" to get it in there....besides andother 10 bolt..
 
A 14-bolt full floater axle from the back of a 3/4-ton GM truck is a direct bolt in. You'll need a special u-joint to adapt between your 1/2-ton driveshaft and the 3/4-ton yoke. But it's also an 8-lug setup, so then you need different wheels. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Honestly the only wrenching I'd do on a 10 bolt is the bare minimum it takes to remove from under the truck...they're not even heavy enough to use as a boat anchor.


[/ QUOTE ]

No, tell us what you really think of them.
LOL that is really funny.
Maybe you should use that for your sig.
-- Mike
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Well to get the axles out you'll need to remove the C-clips. There is a cross shaft going through the middle of the carrier, at one end there will be a small bolt that holds it in. If it comes out just look up and say thanks...quite a few of those bolts shear off. If it does shear off you'll have to use a BFH and a drift to shear it off even more so the cross shaft comes out. Pound on the end of the cross shaft until it starts to budge...

[/ QUOTE ]

Just as an aside, I tried this on an S10 carrier (exact same setup, just 7.5" instead of 8.5") and cracked the carrier. (just a hairline crack where the retaining bolt is, which is not really critical IMO) Of course, at THAT point I said screw it, took it back to the wrecking yard it came from, told them they sold me a crappy axle (which they guaranteed) and they had a shop drill the pinion shaft (the big round piece that goes through the center of the carrier) retaining bolt out for me.

It's worked fine on my friends truck for a few years now, but it's not a serious crack. Had another friend try drilling the pinion shaft itself out of a 12 bolt to get the axles out, and I don't know how many bits he went through, but he never did get it out.

If you really want the axles themselves, and don't care about the carrier, you can use a cutter of some type (as the carrier is fairly soft) and cut a groove right next to the pinion shaft, opposite the side it threads in from. If you cut it right next to the pinion shaft, you'll be able to push the pinion shaft out ok.

All that said, in this case, the 8.5" is lame, as has been said numerous times. 14 bolt all the way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom