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Cranking torsion bars update now with pics

noJeepshere

I Drove Trains!
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So I have a 1999 GMC Yukon that is the perfect (almost) vehicle for me. The few drawbacks it has (besides fuel economy) are it sits too low. I have in the plans to get a 4" lift and unlift it a bit. Most lifts prescribe some torsion bar cranking to get the total lift, and that is hell on the ball joints. But for right now, I just want to crank the torsion bars just enough to make the truck sit level, as it's a little nose down at the moment. How's it done?

Like I said, I just want to get it up for now, as I'm hopefully going to lift it this fall, prolly 3" max and no bigger tires then it has now. I want to buy a quality 4" lift with the diff drop subframe, ect. and bring it down until the ball joints are sitting like they should, then put shackles and blocks in the back,(or new springs) to level the ride. I know that a lot of people crank their bars, some a little, others alot, with mixed results. My older brother cranked his a ton, and wheeled the piss out of his Isuzu Rodeo and never had a problem. Other guys can't go 15,000 miles on the stock ones, but that's just their luck. I recently replaced the upper and lower joints on my Yukon, (at 120,000 miles) and don't plan on wheeling this very hard at all, as this is my mallcrawler. The 81 is my real 4x4. Sorry it's long. Thanks for your help.

UPDATE: if you look closely at the pics, you'll notice the angle of the lower control arms is different, and the gap between the tire and fender is now bigger too. The ride is not that much different, but the hood now takes up more of the view and it feels more "trucky" I like it. After wialing on the torsion bar bolts, I took it over to the next bay and re-did the alignment, so now it also steers better then it used to.

Picture.jpg

Picture 013.jpg
 
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Most trucks you just unload [ lift] the front end/tires and crank on the Torsion bar bolt..
Count the turns to help keep the lift even from side to side.
Thats all i did on my 91 Mazda anyway.
 
With it sitting on the ground, have a friend hold a tape measure up to a convenient place and measure the gap to whatever. Get your Butt under the truck with an impact and lay into the adjuster until that side sits level. Occasionally stopping to "bounce" the front end to get an accurate measurement. Repeat for the other side.
Have a nice day.
 
Hopefully it's about as easy as you guys make it seem... we shall see... Thanks for the input.
 
Cranking torsion bars brings the suck, you'll find that out sooner than later.

But yeah, I guess just crank them up until the ride height is where you want it.
 
STOP NOW.


Been down this road. Leave your truck alone until you can afford a good lift and call it a day.
 
As Dafey said, ALWAYS unload the front susp to adj torsion bars. Don't turn the bolts with the weight of the truck resting on them unless you want to watch the threads come out of the adjuster. I cranked up my '05 2500hd 1.5". It didn't make it stiffer, but it made the truck top out the susp travel more often.
 
I'm only going to lift it about 1/2 at the most, the truck sits stock for now, and the rear sits a little higher to compensate for loads.
 
Frankly I wouldn't touch the t-bars at all. If your truck rides nice now leave it. Cranking is just a big pain in the ass with little returns.

Save your time and money for a good 4" lift with a one peice sub frame and extended knuckles (like Tuff Country). Then you'll have other worries.
 
1/2 isn't THAT BAD.. and you can always go back down. Be prepared it WILL be different.
 
Guy did it on my stepdads old truck before he got it. I think he went a lil overboard as when you put it in 4wd it was ALL over the place. The axle shafts were at like a 90* angle :eek1:

He lowered it back down and it still cleared 31's (guy had 33's on it :rolleyes:)

1/2" probably isn't that bad. Like they said if you don't like it lower it back down
 
Randy! Haven't heard from you in a while. What's happenin? Anyhoo, I agree completely, cranking the crap outta them is a problem, but such a little amount I forsee no problems, but then again, I wear glasses.
 
Haven't been up to much. Just tryin to get my Blazer here so i can tinker with it. Bought me a 350 for $25 so i can build me one. between that and workin that's about all i do now ;)

Oh and i still get on and have to wait for my debit card application to go through for my new bank. Then i'll register :D

hijack off/ my bad haha
 
If you look closely at the pics, you'll notice the angle of the lower control arms is different, and the gap between the tire and fender is now bigger too. The ride is not that much different, but the hood now takes up more of the view and it feels more "trucky" I like it. After wialing on the torsion bar bolts, I took it over to the next bay and re-did the alignment, so now it also steers better then it used to.

Picture.jpg

Picture 013.jpg
 
STOP NOW.


Been down this road. Leave your truck alone until you can afford a good lift and call it a day.


Apparently you went down the wrong road or something. Cranking the bars just enough to level the front end out on my 98 has had no adverse affects on my truck PERIOD
 
Apparently you went down the wrong road or something. Cranking the bars just enough to level the front end out on my 98 has had no adverse affects on my truck PERIOD
It was a never ending battle with my '92. Worn out front parts, couldn't hold an alignment, sagging t-bars, blech.

On the Tough Country lift for a Colorado you HAVE to crank the bars.
Not on the 88-99 style trucks. Friend put one on his and it was pretty damn simple. Rides like factory.
 

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