Crawlbox doubler thread.

[MTBLAZER89]

Magnum, Titan, Eco, Behemoth or whatever other crawl boxes available today. Looking for mounting solutions. Have been reading a lot on doubler mounting. The "mother of all" thread has lots of great ideas, but are basically all 203/205 setups and is way old. Seems there has been some change of thought in how to mount these setups to minimize/prevent drivetrain breakage.

Obviously match the mounts rubber with rubber or poly with poly.

205 rear supports?

Use the factory adaptor along with the foot on the crawl box?

I have the factory adaptor, Mounting foot between the crawl box and 205, and a rear 205 mount.

My idea right now is to use a poly mount on the foot between the box and 205 and a poly mount for a rear 205 support, but to have both of them mounted on the same crossmember with a single attachment point hard mounted to the frame on each side.

My frame is pretty rigid with an engine cage, full internal cage, sliders that are all integrated together with the sliders also integrated into the rockers.

@Stephen inputs?

 

[sweetk30]

stephen told me for my 203/205 combo from his doubler to pickup the rear mount-doubler plate and if i wished add in the factory but not on a whole 2nd cross member . frame flex with 2 stock units can break stuff . so i left the 2nd cross member in the frame but left the mounts off and am running just 1 with mounts .

in my pics its still bolted in on the front / stock adapter . they have been removed like i said . plan is to make a plate to give it a bit of a skid plate effect .

 

[MTBLAZER89]

@sweetk30 Yeah I have a similar adaptor foot that is in between the Eco and the 205. My thought was a Single custom crossmember there tucked as much as I can, but with a piece the extends under the 205 for a rear support.

 

[Bent77]

So let’s see if we can get some pictures
@skunked @mrk5 @Fastereddie

@wetoolowdingbangow
@6872xtc

And whoever I forgot


Also if you guys have some bell housing to output numbers, we’ll probably add this to the sticky

 

[MTBLAZER89]

@Bent77

 

[Bent77]

@Bent77

Yes?

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Yes?

I was just tagging you, but you replied first.

 

[imiceman44]

I haven't done it yet but I will be making a lengthwise crossmember and hardmounting everything to it then attach it to the frame on four corners with rubber mounts.
Guaranteed no breaking.
It will be more like a cage so it won't even twist.
I am still working out details so when I need to work on the cases I can have reasonable access and not have to drop everything in one piece.
Even though with the 2000 lbs transmission jack it might not be a bad idea

 

[K5chevyLQ4]

"I haven't done it yet but I will be making a lengthwise crossmember and hardmounting everything to it then attach it to the frame on four corners with rubber mounts.
Guaranteed no breaking."

Sounds like its guaranteed to break your transmission case. The problem is not flex in the cross members but the frame itself. The front of the frame twists as you articulate and the engine twists with it due to the mounts at the rail. If you solid mount the rear of the of the transmission (with rubber out at the frame rail) then you are putting a twisting action on the drive train every time you flex the suspension. Unless you can eliminate frame flex from the engine mounts to the transmission mount then the rear mounts need to be centered.

The factory setup uses two outside mounts at the engine and a center mount at the transmission. It allows much more frame flex and saves the trans case.
The best setup would keep the rear mounts inline and in the center.

 

[skunked]

@MTBLAZER89 have you mocked up the mounting foot from NWF yet? If you're going flat with the 205 it's going to need some modification so it's clocked correctly so the foot is flat.

I used a couple poly donuts under the modified foot.

 

[imiceman44]

"I haven't done it yet but I will be making a lengthwise crossmember and hardmounting everything to it then attach it to the frame on four corners with rubber mounts.
Guaranteed no breaking."

Sounds like its guaranteed to break your transmission case. The problem is not flex in the cross members but the frame itself. The front of the frame twists as you articulate and the engine twists with it due to the mounts at the rail. If you solid mount the rear of the of the transmission (with rubber out at the frame rail) then you are putting a twisting action on the drive train every time you flex the suspension. Unless you can eliminate frame flex from the engine mounts to the transmission mount then the rear mounts need to be centered.

The factory setup uses two outside mounts at the engine and a center mount at the transmission. It allows much more frame flex and saves the trans case.
The best setup would keep the rear mounts inline and in the center.

I guess you misunderstood me.
My engine/trans/tcases will all be a unit.
Floating in the frame on 4 corners.
Guaranteed no running gear breaks.
The mounts will need to be strong so I am trying to find the best candidate.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

@MTBLAZER89 have you mocked up the mounting foot from NWF yet? If you're going flat with the 205 it's going to need some modification so it's clocked correctly so the foot is flat.

I used a couple poly donuts under the modified foot.

View attachment 290998

View attachment 290999

I do have the mounting plate. I like how you did yours using one crossmember and the stock mount as well as the foot. Do you have a rear suppprt?

I don't think I'll get "flat" I'm clocked as far as I can be right now without mods.

 

[sweetk30]

i think if you pic up both like he did you wont need a rear mount . but we should wait and see what stephen says maybe .

 

[skunked]

I do have the mounting plate. I like how you did yours using one crossmember and the stock mount as well as the foot. Do you have a rear suppprt?

I don't think I'll get "flat" I'm clocked as far as I can be right now without mods.

Yes I have a separate single 2x2 crossmember that supports the 205 and my belly pan hinges off it. The idea behind this design is that I can swing my belly pan down and drop the main crossmember while the drivetrain is still supported for service or repairs. Mock up the NWF foot on the bench, it only allows for a small amount of clocking before you'll need to re drill the 205 pattern on it.....

 

[muddermilitia]

I added a link to this thread in the original post of the "Mother of All Doubler Crossmembers Thread"

 

[Bent77]

I added a link to this thread in the original post of the "Mother of All Doubler Crossmembers Thread"

Yep

If this thread pans out I’ll sticky it too
Hopefully tonight I can measure from bell housing to output on mine and add that. I think that gets asked a lot too

 

[skunked]

Hopefully tonight I can measure from bell housing to output on mine and add that. I think that gets asked a lot too

I have that buried in my thread somewhere for the th400/eco/np205. I'll see if I can find it....

 

[Bent77]

I have that buried in my thread somewhere for the th400/eco/np205. I'll see if I can find it....

I’ll probably harvest these numbers into the first post of the sticky as a list. I think that will be the easiest way for everyone to see those numbers

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Yes I have a separate single 2x2 crossmember that supports the 205 and my belly pan hinges off it. The idea behind this design is that I can swing my belly pan down and drop the main crossmember while the drivetrain is still supported for service or repairs. Mock up the NWF foot on the bench, it only allows for a small amount of clocking before you'll need to re drill the 205 pattern on it.....

That was my train of thought too. I have the entire setup mocked up on the "bench" . Trying to keep the main support crossmember seperate from the skid plate for maintenance and structural integrity. I figured my rar crossmember for the tail support can also be my anti wrap tie in.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Yep

If this thread pans out I’ll sticky it too
Hopefully tonight I can measure from bell housing to output on mine and add that. I think that gets asked a lot too

My 400/Eco?round 205 WITH the NWF mounting foot is 46 13/16" from bellhousing to the mounting surface of the HAD 1350 flange.

Another note is the HAD 1350 flange clears the NWF cable setup when used on a Ford 32 spline front output.