@Bent77 mine would be the same as @MTBLAZER89 + 0.75" for the figure 8 to Eco adapter.
*pic was taken before I clocked the NP205 flat
*pic was taken before I clocked the NP205 flat
CK5
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Crawlbox doubler thread.
- Thread starter MTBLAZER89
- Start date
How do you go about more clocking? Also side question. What size are those AN fittings for the cooler lines? Did you run soft braided lines to the cooler?
It looks like mine is 44.5" .
700R4, ORD 203/205 double. Flat flange output.
700R4, ORD 203/205 double. Flat flange output.
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the two halves of the ECO box clock different ways.
-8an and I used rubber continental hose plumbed through the radiator cooler then through an auxiliary Derale cooler and back to the trans. Make sure you get the correct th400 fittings, they ARE NOT pipe thread (those can split the case).
Do you remember which config you used? This is mine clocked to the max in the GM205 config according to the directions at least.
Not really, I just remember having to play around with different configurations. Can you clock the front half of the box on the adapter?
No it's not a symetrical pattern. I might just leave it. We'll see I guess. I already sealed the two halves LOL
wasted wages
1 ton status
[/QUOTE]
My engine/trans/tcases will all be a unit.
Floating in the frame on 4 corners.
Guaranteed no running gear breaks.
The mounts will need to be strong so I am trying to find the best candidate.[/QUOTE]
If you plan on putting the engine/trans/tcases in a "cage" and then floating the cage on four mounts within the frame, wouldn't you want to bolt the drivetrain "package" solid to the cage.
and then let the four mounts absorb the flexing between the frame and drivetrain package??
just my .02....
My engine/trans/tcases will all be a unit.
Floating in the frame on 4 corners.
Guaranteed no running gear breaks.
The mounts will need to be strong so I am trying to find the best candidate.[/QUOTE]
If you plan on putting the engine/trans/tcases in a "cage" and then floating the cage on four mounts within the frame, wouldn't you want to bolt the drivetrain "package" solid to the cage.
and then let the four mounts absorb the flexing between the frame and drivetrain package??
just my .02....
There are pics here of the original 203/205 mount system in our '99 K2500 and a couple pics on the next page of the mount in Willard.
http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/ORD2/library/Offroad Design UAK2500?sort=3&page=5
And pics here of the Magnum mount in our Convertible K30:
http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/ORD2/library/UA14 truck build?sort=3&page=2
Common theme in Wally and our former tube car/U4 racer "mini wally". We mount at the motor mounts and the Doubler/Magnum adapter with sometimes a single point at the trans mount but still tied to a single crossmember. Your milage may vary with this technique but ours has not. Lots of built up and used hard rigs in the stable here and never a broken transmission case or adapter.
http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/ORD2/library/Offroad Design UAK2500?sort=3&page=5
And pics here of the Magnum mount in our Convertible K30:
http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/ORD2/library/UA14 truck build?sort=3&page=2
Common theme in Wally and our former tube car/U4 racer "mini wally". We mount at the motor mounts and the Doubler/Magnum adapter with sometimes a single point at the trans mount but still tied to a single crossmember. Your milage may vary with this technique but ours has not. Lots of built up and used hard rigs in the stable here and never a broken transmission case or adapter.
I never did update this. Here are a few in work pics of the single crossmember and the final version.
I didn't like my original design of frame mounts so I built some angle pieces.
Rear support crossmember is still in work.
