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Crazy to spend $300 on 10-bolt?

Blue85

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I have 14b s/f rear and 10-bolt front - 6 lug, 4.10 gears. I just moved to 37" tires and need gears. My plan was to buy a couple sets of 4.88 cogs and set them up myself. I found a complete 10-bolt front axle with 5.13 and a tru-trac that I can probably get in the $300 range. Sounds crazy, but I can't get the front gearset and install kit for less than $220 or so, plus I would get a traction adder. My front is in good shape I could probably get a little $$ in return. I have overdrive and 5.13 is only 5% deeper than 4.88. The rear gearset costs the same in either ratio.

What do you think?

EDIT: no plans for a Dana 60 unless it is almost free.
 
Higher gears than I would want for 37s but still sounds like a good deal. That Tru trac is worth over $300 new anyways. I suppose the higher gears are not that bad.

I'd say go for it.
 
Higher gears than I would want for 37s but still sounds like a good deal. That Tru trac is worth over $300 new anyways. I suppose the higher gears are not that bad.

I'd say go for it.

How deep would you go?

Martin
 
How deep would you go?

Martin

4.88s. But after thinking about the pros/cons of the whole situation, 5.13s wouldn't be the end of the world. Worst case, you lose a bit of highway speed vs. engine RPM.
 
Here's the numbers I came up with for both 3rd and 4th gears. I only included the smaller tire stuff so I could compare with setups I have run in the past. I loved 4.10 and 33s, but I know I need to be slightly deeper (proportionately) since the H1 wheels and tires are much heavier than the alloys.

____________55_______65_______70
Ratio Tire__1___0.7___1___0.7__1___0.7
4.10 32.0 2368 1657 2798 1959 3013 2109
4.10 34.5 2196 1537 2595 1817 2795 1956
4.10 36.5 2076 1453 2453 1717 2642 1849
4.56 36.5 2309 1616 2728 1910 2938 2057
4.88 36.5 2471 1729 2920 2044 3144 2201
5.13 36.5 2597 1818 3069 2149 3305 2314

So 4.88 is probably perfect. 5.13 is 5% deeper, or about 100rpm more at 70MPH.
 
Here's the numbers I came up with for both 3rd and 4th gears. I only included the smaller tire stuff so I could compare with setups I have run in the past. I loved 4.10 and 33s, but I know I need to be slightly deeper (proportionately) since the H1 wheels and tires are much heavier than the alloys.

____________55_______65_______70
Ratio Tire__1___0.7___1___0.7__1___0.7
4.10 32.0 2368 1657 2798 1959 3013 2109
4.10 34.5 2196 1537 2595 1817 2795 1956
4.10 36.5 2076 1453 2453 1717 2642 1849
4.56 36.5 2309 1616 2728 1910 2938 2057
4.88 36.5 2471 1729 2920 2044 3144 2201
5.13 36.5 2597 1818 3069 2149 3305 2314

So 4.88 is probably perfect. 5.13 is 5% deeper, or about 100rpm more at 70MPH.


Pfff 2300 @70 your fine...

My truck spins 2600ish at 70.
 
Go for it. Paying for a stock 10bolt is often frowned upon, but really, if this one is in good shape (ie not in need of BJ's, bearings, brakes), then it suits your purpose, and is a good deal. Especially with those gears and LS.
Just remember, traction adder + 10 bolt + 37's isn't necessarily a strong combination. Be careful of the skinny pedal use.

Too bad you aren't closer, or i'd be interested in your 10 bolt with 4.10's.
 
I drove 94 miles to check it out last night and went home empty handed. It's been sitting for at least 3 years, at least one of those outside and there was like 1 tablespoon of gear lube in there. About 1/3 of the ring gear is rusty. The side of the tru-track is rusty, but the inside looks OK from what I can see. The brake calipers were sitting open, TRE boots were broken, wheel studs wasted, etc.

I did make an offer, but he would not come below $325. Maybe that diff is usable, maybe there would be problems, but it's more than I wanted to risk. I didn't like being told that all the rusty parts were "brand new" or that "throwing it in 4WD will clean everything up", so I walked.
 
Depending on the severity of the rust, maybe it would have "self cleaned". But I wouldn't want to pay more than 250 for it in that condition.
 
I went and looked at a Dana 44 with 4.88 3 days ago. 74 miles each way. The ring gear was all chipped up, pinion chipped, spiders chipped. Apparently the guy tore it up right before he swapped in his 60 and never noticed it was junk. It sure takes a lot of gas to "save money" - so I'm on to plan B.

Summit racing delivered my 9.5" 4.88s two days ago and yesterday I picked up a used Richmond 8.5" set from a local speed shop. The rear set is about half swapped in...so what am I doing online?
 
i have run 4.88's in a 10bolt rear on my old z71. the pinion gets real "frail" on a set of 5.13's in my opinion. i would just run the 4.88's, be smart with the truck, and wheel away.
 
The rear set is about half swapped in...so what am I doing online?


Probably online doing what I do when Im half done with something. Trying to figure out why in the heck it wont go together, or what I am missing that I didnt think I would need. Then you will drive 100mph to a parts store to get it before they close.
 
spend what you want

i think it is only crazy if you dont use it hard after you buy it:pimp:
 
Trying to figure out...what I am missing that I didnt think I would need.
I needed a carrier shim. My kit came only with pinion shims, so of course the original pinion shim ended up being right. Fortunately the local transmission shop was open and they "pack rat" boxes of useful stuff like this everywhere.

The 14sf has an adjuster on the right side and shims on the left. So you need shims to set backlash and then spin the adjuster to set preload. The weird thing is how many varying theories there are on how to set (or ignore) carrier preload.
 

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