Crew cab short bed questions

[rjfguitar]

For those that have shortened a K30 frame to make a crew cab into a short bed:

1. How many inches is removed from the frame, obviously this would correlate with how much shorter a short bed is vs. a long bed.

2. Where did you take out the extra length, again, obviously one would think right behind the cab where the fuel tanks are at.

3. Looks like the front spring hangers would hit the rear of the fuel tanks if the frame was shorter. What did you do about this? Blazer tank between the rails?

Any pictures of how you cut the frame down?

FYI, I am talking a factory length crew/short bed. Not Suburban frames or super short bed builds.

 

[thatK30guy]

14" and take it out of the section in front of the rear spring hanger forward brackets. Redrill holes for the fuel tank hangers.

If I were you, I'd do 13" section removal so you can gain another inch of space between the cab and bed so they don't come in contact due to flexing, etc.

 

[thatK30guy]

And cut the frame so it looks like steps from side view. Just one step. And fishplate the inside of the rail.

 

[sweetk30]

if I recall its a 2 part cut .

1 section behind cab .

chop little off back end also . as the box is shorted both front and read ends .

gas tank or tanks = short bed tanks for direct fitment as there from 20 gal long bed to 16 gal short bed . unless you get creative and rework some stuff to keep the 20 gal tanks .

 

[rjfguitar]

14" and take it out of the section in front of the rear spring hanger forward brackets. Redrill holes for the fuel tank hangers.

If I were you, I'd do 13" section removal so you can gain another inch of space between the cab and bed so they don't come in contact due to flexing, etc.

I'd measure what the stock distance is between the cab and front of the bed and go with that, which is probably 14" like you said. Flexing wouldn't be an issue as this would never go offroad, or even be driven in the rain for that matter.

I thought about the 16 gallon tanks, but that is offly small. You only really have about 24 gallons or so to actually work with at best unless a guy is brave and runs on "E" for a while. A blazer tank is sounding better, eliminate the tank switcher too.

 

[thatK30guy]

Yeah 14" is the general measurement with the 117.5" and 131.5" wheelbases. I'd just be more comfortable with another inch or half inch of extra gap between the cab and bed.

And like Bret said about cutting the rearmost part of the frame horns, shortbeds have a shorter overhang on the rear so the frame needs to be addressed back there. Bad thing about that is you're losing the bumper mount holes and not getting much material to work with since the rear springs are 56" long and hangers are back 4" longer than a SWB.

 

[b454rat]

When I shortened my frame, the box holes lined up perfectly. I cut 14" in between spring hanger and forward box holes....

 

[thatK30guy]

Here's someone who did it: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/lwb_to_swb.htm

 

[thatK30guy]

Here are two pics from the same project of what I referred to as "steps".

 

[rjfguitar]

Here's someone who did it: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/lwb_to_swb.htm

THanks for the link. It's a pretty easy job really. I do lots of welding so no sweat. My biggest concern was the fuel tank(s) and I still think a single blazer tank is the way to go.

 

[K85 Octane]

really? Only the front section gets cut?
When the 67-72 guys go LWB to SWB, they take out some from both side of the wheel well. Like 12 in front and 6 in back for the bed, the frame gets cut in front of the wheel and hacked off in back. No welding needed for the rear of the frame.

 

[shady]

really? Only the front section gets cut?
When the 67-72 guys go LWB to SWB, they take out some from both side of the wheel well. Like 12 in front and 6 in back for the bed, the frame gets cut in front of the wheel and hacked off in back. No welding needed for the rear of the frame.

I was thinking it was like this /\/\/\ too.... I remembered the 14" part from when i asked the same thing, but thought there was a cut at the rear also... either way i cant wait for a build thread since your K5 is so sweet

I'll be doing this SOME year here too. Miss my CCSB alot and wish it had been the burb I sold....

 

[rjfguitar]

either way i cant wait for a build thread since your K5 is so sweet

I'm just in the idea phase at the moment. If I go ahead with this, it will be better than my K5, total frame off resto mod with no expense spared. 4-6" lift, wide 33's, killer paint scheme, as much NOS as I can get my hands on, '91 power mirrors, and..... Duramax/Allison combo.

Still working on some details, but PPE has a stand alone harness system for a Dmax/Allison swaps and I think I would go with a Dodge D60 and Dodge front suspension, AAM 11.5 in the rear.

Long story short, my K30 was a work horse for many years for me, it got replaced a few weeks ago by a newer Ford PSD, I was going to sell the K30, but now am thinking I should keep it and push forward with this idea, mainly because I doubt I could find another K30 as clean as mine to start with in the future.

The budget on this project is going to be around $35K. I am going to start saving and plan to start on it in 2016.

Here is Jeff Stonz crew cab, looking to do something REAL similar, just not as tall, better interior, better tires/wheels.

 

[thatK30guy]

I've got some '90-'91 electric mirrors if you're interested. But take it to PM's.

 

[Ned Kelly]

Is there any disadvantage to just cutting off the excess frame, and do no frame welding to shorten the crewcab wheelbase?

 

[thatK30guy]

If you're running a lift, then no, but if you're doing stock, the curvature of the frame where the forward rear spring hangers will hang lower towards the center of the spring pack and may/may not hit during a bottoming out when flattening the springs with a load or flex.

 

[Ned Kelly]

K30Guy,
Thanks for that tidbit. Something I did not think of and will take that into consideration.

 

[beags86]

Here is Jeff Stonz crew cab, looking to do something REAL similar, just not as tall, better interior, better tires/wheels.

He did a black one to. Youtube search a bit and you will find it. Both are sweet trucks.

 

[blowedupmotor87]

Sounds like an awesome plan! Glad to finally see a Dmax/Alli build instead of the typical Cummins swap! (not that a Cummins swap isn't sweet, it's just that that it has been done, a LOT) I'll be watching this, both for that reason and because I am still debating on how I will shorten my crew cab!

 

[rjfguitar]

Sounds like an awesome plan! Glad to finally see a Dmax/Alli build instead of the typical Cummins swap! (not that a Cummins swap isn't sweet, it's just that that it has been done, a LOT) I'll be watching this, both for that reason and because I am still debating on how I will shorten my crew cab!

Well, my motivation mainly comes from that we have 4 Dodge Cummins trucks, 2 7.3PSD Fords, and 2 LS powered GM's around here. A Dmax seems like the missing link.

But yeah, cool factor USED to be through the roof on a Cummins swap, now everyone is in on it and it's old news. Dmax swap is still somewhat new territory and cool factor is x10.

Like I said, it might be a while before I get this going. I completely restored my K5 throughout my 20's, and I turn 30 this year. Thinking the K30 will be my "car" accomplishment of my 30's. I will likely start next year some time, and do it in stages. First stage is getting it cut down and the bed done. That's cheap and easy. Then save up for the Dmax/Allison swap. That is going to be expensive, probably $15K. Paint and body $5-7K..., suspension/axles/tires/wheels....$7K.... this may take a while.