79bonanza
1/2 ton status
i just seen that offroad unlimited makes a replacement knuckle that is cast for cross over steering, i was wondering if anybody is running this and if they liked it 
CK5
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cross over steering
- Thread starter 79bonanza
- Start date
I don't think anyone can afford anything from ORU.
also what axle are you working with ?
Here it is, doesn't seem to expensive to me considering flat tops go for ~$100 around here I think, then you still need to buy a steering arm and have the knuckle drilled and tapped for the steering arm.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
i have a GM 10 bolt axle that i was thinking of doing this to, well i was thinking it would be about the same cost with having to find a flat top knuckle then buy a steering arm and having it machined it would be about the same cost, but just buying the knuckle from ORU would just be easier
Ok, now I take it back on my quote. Its been a while I browsed the ORU site and when I did, they were selling those knuckles at the listed price instead of the new one. Thats why I made the comment.
Now for $200, I'd buy that arm from them now.
Keep in mind of the differences between the early and late knuckles, nut placement and arm height.
owenst7
1/2 ton status
Mnstrburban was running one. It's in his build thread.
dudeiwin86
Registered Member
wow... 200$ for that piece?
and here i am trying to find the correct flat top knuckle for my '90 k5... and then the steering arm + machining.
id love to hear from people running that knuckle, it looks pretty sharp. wonder if it performs as well as it looks.
i dont want to be the guinea pig!
*edit*
after some sleuthing ... i found the conversation in the "burbon" thread...
starts here
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233479&highlight=crossover&page=11
in post 104, and continues thru page 15 (post # 143) on and off in between with some good reading.
looks like i will def be going this route when the time comes.
and here i am trying to find the correct flat top knuckle for my '90 k5... and then the steering arm + machining.
id love to hear from people running that knuckle, it looks pretty sharp. wonder if it performs as well as it looks.
i dont want to be the guinea pig!
*edit*
after some sleuthing ... i found the conversation in the "burbon" thread...
starts here
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233479&highlight=crossover&page=11
in post 104, and continues thru page 15 (post # 143) on and off in between with some good reading.
looks like i will def be going this route when the time comes.
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79bonanza
1/2 ton status
so i think when i get some extra money im going to buy one of these knuckles unless anyone has a good reason not to, just a quick questions why cant you use a 4wd steering box in a cross over steering is the 2wd box pitman arm shorter?
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if i had to guess nut down means tie rods on top and down threw.
With crossover you need the pitman arm positioned 90 degrees from the way it is stock (because the draglink moves side to side with crossover and front to back with the stock setup).
The 2WD box can index the pitman arm every 90 degrees, the 4WD box can only go on one way (hence why it doesn't work with crossover).
Also, the boxes are identical except for the sector shaft and its a direct swap so you don't really need to get a whole new box, just swap that one piece (its really easy, search on here).
and 4x4 box goes front to back = push pull
2wd box goes left right = best for crossover.
2wd box goes left right = best for crossover.
owenst7
1/2 ton status
Steering boxes are the same. The sector shaft is what is different (but you can swap them out). The 4wd sector shaft is only splined on about 90* of it's circumference and use a bolt through the side of the pitman instead of a nut on the bottom of the sector shaft. I don't think you can use a 2wd pitman arm on a 4wd frame (due to clearance issues, someone correct me if I'm wrong, never looked very carefully).
If you have a good steering box, get a 2wd sector shaft from a junk 2wd truck and drop it in. It's pretty simple. Then you need a Saginaw pitman with at least 1.5"-1.75" drop to clear the frame. The keys on the pitman splines need to be at 12,3,6,9 o'clock. There's several pitmans on the market that you could use and what works best kind of depends on how youre building your truck.
The ORU knuckles are what I would use if I were doing crossover on a d44/10bolt. I wouldn't do histeer on one of those unless I was using crane knuckles, so that wouldn't be a concern to me. I'm sure the casting is stronger than OEM and there are no fasteners to fail.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
ok now i undrstand why a 2wd shaft or box thanks for all the good info
Here's he other arm ORU offers for "nut up": http://offroadunlimited.com/orustore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=22&idproduct=8238
As I quoted above, be aware of which knuckle you have because 1st and 2nd design knuckles are different just like the tie-rods are different, too.
1st design: nut on bottom
2nd design: nut on top
broncoman6524
1/2 ton status
My buddy ran one of these in his wagoneer on 40s. When we built it we put a fullsize D44 in it, it was real nice quality and they are actually much more affordable than before.
He DD it and never had any problems.
Really crap pic, but what the hell.
He DD it and never had any problems.
Really crap pic, but what the hell.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
i got anothe quick question, if i moved my axle forward with ORD's zero rates would that affect a cross over steering setup?
owenst7
1/2 ton status
It would effect it much much less than with the stock steering setup. The impact will somewhat depend on the length of your steering arm/pitman arm. Ideally, the draglink is parallel to the axle on all planes, but this setup rarely happens. I had my axle moved an inch forward for a while with the drag link a bit further forward on the passenger side (the condition you are probably concerned about). I didn't really notice a difference in bump and roll steer over having the axle in stock location...there really isn't any noticeable bump or roll steer, and I'm running a very flexy front setup and drive it on the highway.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
ok i was just wondering if my steering or front suspension would bind up or rub when flexed if the axle was farther forward.
owenst7
1/2 ton status
Probably
unlikely to have bind issues with only an inch forward. You will have to ditch your antisway FYI. It kind of depends on your setup. I have tons of room but I am only using a 1.75" drop pitman, where a lot of guys are running a 4" drop. I'm running stock 34 year old k5 rears on the front so I also sit relatively low. I think the clearance issues most guys run into when moving forward is the pitman hitting the ubolt plate at full stuff when they run the superlift pitman on a rig like mine.
There's also some issues with the draglink and the factory engine crossmember. Moving forward should help a bit though. I personally feel very strongly about replacing the stock crossmember with a better design asap along with a steering box brace, but those are my personal feelings about these frames.
unlikely to have bind issues with only an inch forward. You will have to ditch your antisway FYI. It kind of depends on your setup. I have tons of room but I am only using a 1.75" drop pitman, where a lot of guys are running a 4" drop. I'm running stock 34 year old k5 rears on the front so I also sit relatively low. I think the clearance issues most guys run into when moving forward is the pitman hitting the ubolt plate at full stuff when they run the superlift pitman on a rig like mine.
There's also some issues with the draglink and the factory engine crossmember. Moving forward should help a bit though. I personally feel very strongly about replacing the stock crossmember with a better design asap along with a steering box brace, but those are my personal feelings about these frames.
