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Crossover fun from NWF

454k30

454k30

1/2 ton status
GMOTM Winner
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Sep 13, 2004
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Everett, WA
Finally received my xover from NWF. It is indeed a well built product. No one around here runs crossover on their GMs so I wasnt really sure what to expect but that steering arm is awesome! I still need to source a 2wd gearbox so I will post more photos when it actually goes in. One problem though. I got two RH thread rod ends with this kit instead of the LH&RH that the draglink is threaded for. So here is the question. Whats the part number for a LH thread tie rod end?


xoversteerparts.JPG


steeringarm.JPG
 
you running 3/4" 7/8" or 1" ends?

should be a 2010L from looking at your pics. the 1 ton dodge style end.
 
left handed end probably won't help you with a bent type drag link. Probably won't spin over anyway. Now you have one end, more common of the two and less spares to carry.

is one end threaded left? 2010L is the one your needin I believe but those in the photo look different somehow.
 
My NWF kit came with LH & RH TREs. Although I've always wondered why not use the same TRE on both sides when using a bent draglink. Seems simplier for the manufacturer and user.
 
cybrfire said:
left handed end probably won't help you with a bent type drag link. Probably won't spin over anyway. Now you have one end, more common of the two and less spares to carry.

is one end threaded left? 2010L is the one your needin I believe but those in the photo look different somehow.
Click to expand...

I've actually got ORD crossover and even with the bent draglink i can loosen the jam nuts and with the wheels pointed slightly to one side i can swing the draglink 360* to make adjustments without having to remove one end. :thumb:

I'm pretty sure he will need a LH end as the draglink is threaded LH on one end.
 
the pic may be deceiving but those ends are identical. I'm going to hit up the local napa to see if they have that 2010L in stock. The box that they were packed in labled them as F*rd L/R TRE. I wouldn't be shocked if they were packed wrong though. Yes one end of the rod is left hand threaded. would more photos clear up the part number needed?
 
A measurement would clear things up. Measure the diameter of the threaded portion and also measure the length of the shank (threaded portion). The 2010L/R are 7/8" threads and the length of the shank is 3.38".
 
Just measured it. I have the same dimensions that you listed. I was looking at napaonline and none with the 2010L part number have a grease fitting. Is that a big deal?
 
I'm running the ES2010L/R's and they all have grease fittings in them.

I have one set on my tie rod and another set in my draglink.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I've actually got ORD crossover and even with the bent draglink i can loosen the jam nuts and with the wheels pointed slightly to one side i can swing the draglink 360* to make adjustments without having to remove one end. :thumb:
.
Click to expand...

That's cool! It sure don't look like it in the photo with the bend. Looks like it'd nail the crossmember before spinning over.

Back to the question at hand. The 2010L's and R's all that I have seen have a grease fitting. Try a different brand. I'd sure want one.
 
well i'm set on that ES2010L then. Do you run jam nuts on yours? If so where did you get LH thread nuts, or did the part come with one?
 
I got the LH nuts from Trevor at WFO when i had him build my tie rod. They were like $5.00 each IIRC
 
454k30 said:
steeringarm.JPG
Click to expand...

dude, can you do me a favor and set that arm on something flat (kitchen table?) and take a pic of it from the side? I run reverse highsteer and would like to have an arm where the rod end mounting surface is higher than my current WFO arms so there is more room for springs...

I'd appreciate it. :thumb:

j
 
This picture help any? It's a factory 52" spring pack with nothing changed as far as the number of leaves, etc.

DSCF2586.jpg
 
actually yeah, that does help. If you had to guess, how much taller is the TRE mounting surface compared to a normal straight arm (1" thick). I have WFO arms that rock, but I want some that go up a little bit like the NWF arms do. Just eyeballing it, it looks like it rises maybe 3/4" or so. Every little bit would help...

j
 
Sorry for the darkness of the photo. The bottom edge of that arm is about a 1/2 inch off of the table, the arm itself is a bit more than 1 inch thick. I didnt have a ruler, just eyeballing it.

armsideview.JPG
 
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